If somebody is trying to open your sliding glass door in the middle of the night, chances are they’re not Jehovah’s Witnesses. Because every house on your block has a deadbolt lock and ADP sign in the front yard, you need to make your home even less of a target. Fortunately that extra level of security is as easy as hitting up Home Depot. Joel Smernoff is head of Parachute Corp, a private security firm for the rich and powerful, and the man who taught you . Smernoff says, “The way we look at physical security is a layered approach.” First, be aware of what’s going on around you. Second, make it difficult for bad guys to get in in. And lastly, have a plan if somebody does manage to penetrate your defenses (Warning: it may involve ). “The first layer of security — before you get into the home — is you,” says Smernoff. “In the military they call it situational awareness or mindset. Get your head out of your device. Whether it’s driving back to your home or taking the subway to your apartment, you need to be aware of what’s going on around you.
If you see a suspicious car, drive away for half hour. If it’s still there call 911.” And if you don’t know whether or not you’ve picked up a tail, consult . Related: A security forces vet offers gun safety tips for keeping your home safe. 2. Bar the front door. Solid wood is second only to impenetrable steel when it comes to your entryway. Avoid having a hollow-core door (like the rooms at ) for a front door; it does nothing for your safety. Once you have several inches of hardwood between you and your intruder, you should also with anti-kick plate and replace the hinge bolts, so if they try to knock it down from either side it won’t budge. But, better to not to wait and see. 3. Where to keep your keys. First, you should keep your keys on your nightstand, not on a hook by the door. In a pinch, you can hit the panic button on your car key and wake up the neighborhood or get the police to investigate. Now the bad guys are gone, but the police are still on their way and you don’t want them to kick in your door either.
Pro tip: Put a glow stick on your key and throw it out your window. Tell the dispatch the cops can look for it and let themselves in. If the police are crooked, consult the 1997 thriller, Cop Land. 4. A quick way to secure the garage. Your garage’s emergency release is a quick way for criminals to get into your house. The two-cent fix: Get a zip tie and tie the emergency handle up higher. If there is an emergency, you can still get it. And make sure that you have a deadbolt lock on the door from your garage to your house. 5. Build a safe room. It’s not just for the paranoid or says Smernoff. “In my house it’s the master bedroom. Just like the door to the garage, I have an anti-kick plate and a deadbolt. It can also be a kids room or closet. You’ll want to reinforce the door, have some food and water, and a landline in case your mobile isn’t working to call 911.” 6. A note on home cameras. Smernoff says, “ are a nice feature, but also put some cameras outside your house.”
Neither of which are going to protect you, but at least you’ll have more information on who is trying to get at you. 7. Adopt a (attack) dog. Besides being lovable companions that will give you years of joy, dogs are furry alarms (or, if they’re big and scary, furry bodyguards) who will alert you to someone lurking outside. Unfortunately, that someone could just as easily be a squirrel. A squirrel who wants to kill you and everyone you care about. 8. You don’t need an alarm, just the sign. If you can’t afford the alarm system, buy the sign. You’re trying to make your house look better defended than the neighbors. Can’t afford a sign? Just cut out an arrow pointing to your next door neighbor and write “rich people” on it. 9. Get some automatic lights. “If someone approaches your house you want lights to come on,” says Smernoff. Get a few outdoor motion-sensor flood lights to take care of the dark corners around your home. Set your indoor lights on a timer when you’re away, but don’t be so predictable.
Get a timer you can and manually turn them on and off. Just in case some Sticky Bandits are casing the joint. 10. Plant a rose bush perimeter. Your Nana may not have been a security expert, but she was on to something by planting an area of dense, thorny bushes around windows and other access points. Her collection of lawn gnomes, however, are only scary to realtors.When to Repair Sliding Glass Door RollersEventually every sliding glass, or patio, door will need help. They get harder and harder to open and close over time and the most common problem is that the rollers they slide on simply wear out. The door used as an example in this hub finally got so hard to move that children could barely open it and the handle broke off from excessive force. It was (past) time to do something! The most obvious first effort should be to clean the track out - remove any debris, small rocks or gravel, etc. Vacuum the track thoroughly and see if there is any improvement - this is sometimes all it takes and is quick and easy to do.
If cleaning the track doesn't work, try to adjust the rollers. This is part of any repair work and is explained below with pictures showing where the adjustment screw can be found. While adjusting the rollers sometimes helps, it is usually an indication that they are wearing and will need replacement in the future. Rollers on the example door were adjusted some time back, and it worked for a couple of years, but eventually just plain needed replacement. If replacement is necessary, begin by removing the door from the track. Removing the Door From the Track.While it may be necessary to remove the outer door first, this is not usually required. In nearly all cases the upper track of the door is deeper than the lower track and the door is not so tall that it actually reaches the top. This is so that the door can be picked up enough so that the roller assembly can clear the bottom track. Removal is generally quite simple; raise the door further into the top track and pull the bottom towards the inside.
If the inside room is a hardwood floor or even vinyl tile flooring it is recommended that some kind of cover be provided to sit the door on so as not to scratch or dent the flooring. Continue this process until the top of the door comes free from the upper track and removal is complete. If you have trouble doing this it may help to adjust the rollers completely up into the door; see the final paragraph for instructions on adjusting the rollers. Sliding glass doors can be quite heavy and it may help to use a pry bar to lift it. In addition it may require help to carry the door or even to slide it on the floor. When the door is removed, it is best to lay on a carpeted floor on its edge as shown in the photos ; the work to be done will be easier. The example door had a major problem in removal; over the 30 year life span of the door both the floor and ceiling had warped very slightly. It wasn't enough to prevent operation of the door, but the upper track had a very slight bow downwards and the bottom track had a similar bow upwards.
The result was that the door could not be lifted enough to clear the bottom track even with a prybar. The answer was to use a small grinder and very carefully remove a small amount of metal from the bottom track. The very upper portion of the track on the inside was removed down to floor level; when the door is installed it still fits below this level and is thus still supported but would now clear the lower track when raised into the upper track. If you have trouble getting the door high enough to slide the bottom out you might check for this problem. Replacing the RollersThe roller assemblies are visible in the bottom of the door, near the sides (see photos). Although typically held in place with a single screw your door will likely be slightly different and you will have to find the screw(s) that hold the assembly. Remove any screws holding the roller assembly in place and remove that assembly. At this point there are two options; either replace the entire assembly or just the roller, with replacement of the entire assembly preferable as it is much simpler.
Individual rollers are available, but will most likely require using a drill to drill out the rivet holding the current roller in place and fitting a new roller into the assembly. Whether buying either an entire assembly or just rollers, an exact replacement is necessary; while assemblies may well be similar they are very unlikely to actually work if not identical. Take the assembly to the store or use exact measurements to find a replacement. Replacement rollers may have a screw and nut arrangement to hold them in place instead of rivets; make sure that there is sufficient room for the screw and nut if you are replacing just the roller. In the example, a local home improvement store had both; a pair of rollers was $6 while two complete assemblies were only $7. The choice was obvious and two complete roller assemblies were purchased. Amazon offers many such roller assemblies and a few examples are shown below. There are many more, but make absolutely sure you are purchasing the correct assembly for your door.
Fit the new assembly (or the old one with new rollers) into the door frame in the same manner they came out and put the fastening screws back into the frame. It is wise to adjust the rollers up into the door as far as possible to make installing the door easier; the next section gives those instructions. The door is re-installed the same way it came out: insert the door into the upper track and slide the bottom of the door over the lower track. The center of the door should line up on the section of track the roller rides on, but it can be moved later if you find during the roller adjustment phase that it isn't centered properly. Adjusting the RollersThe final step in the process is to adjust the door rollers. Using a screwdiver (probably a phillips type), turn the adjustment screw until the door itself is raised just slightly off the bottom track. As the adjustment screw is turned it pushes the actual roller wheel down which is what pushes the door up. This screw will probably be turned in a clockwise motion to move the roller down and the door up, but it may be necessary to turn it the other way depending on the assembly that fits your door.
Expect the screw to turn quite easily for a few turns but then get considerably harder to turn as the roller comes into contact with the track and begins to raise the door. It may help to raise the door very slightly with a screwdriver or prybar as that will make it easier to turn the adjustment screw. Just don't raise it so far that the roller comes off the track and allows the bottom of the door to move sideways. Adjusting this screw is done to accomplish two things; to raise the door so that it does not drag on the bottom and to plumb the door. After the door is raised and sliding freely, shut the door and adjust one roller again until the door is square with the door frame. The edge of the door should just touch the door frame all the way up and down the closed side. Re-install the exterior door if you have moved it and the task is complete. You have successfully completed your task of sliding glass door repair and installed new patio door rollers. Your door is ready for many more years of service and it didn't cost an arm and a leg to do it.