This article was originally published in the Early Summer 2016 issue of Cottage Life magazine. Rolling, barn-style doors may be the in thing, but they’re more than just trendy. At the cottage, they can be a useful and attractive alternative to a swinging door or a pocket door. While you can buy doors intended for a barn-door installation (Home Hardware and Home Depot have lightweight K- and Z-style doors), virtually any door can be converted to a barn door with special tracks and hangers. This hardware is now easy to find in a wide range of styles. Unlike a swinging door, a barn door doesn’t sweep across usable floor area‚ so it suits tight, crowded spaces such as hallways. Installing a barn door, new or as a retrofit over an existing opening, is a straightforward DIY job, much easier than framing a swinging door or, harder still, adding a pocket door. As a bonus, the rustic look of barn-door hardware suits the cottage better than a lot of modern, off-the-shelf doors.
Barn doors, when open, may block light switches or power outlets, and they require enough adjacent wall to roll across. Plus, that wall space becomes tricky to use for art or shelving. Many mounting tracks can be adjusted so the fasteners line up with studs in the wall, but others have pre-drilled holes that don’t necessarily align. No problem if you’re building the wall; just install 2×4 blocking in anticipation of the track. If the wall is already built and finished, there’s an easy fix: attach a 1×4 board to the wall (secured to the studs), and mount the track onto the board. You could install a flush-mounted pull or a floor-mounted guide (which keeps the door from bang- ing in a breeze). Both are router jobs: creating a recess for the pull and cutting a groove in the bottom of the door.I’m still not 100% sure how I came to hang a barn door in my living room. I think maybe my wife and I were playing chicken with each other. Neither of us blinked, and now I have a barn door, which I love and had a great time making, hanging in my living room.
Day 1: Plans, wood Day 2: Assembling the basic door planks Day 3: First back plane cut and first cross bar Day 4: Hardware issues, triple-checked math Day 5: Last cross-piece Day 6: Vertical facing pieces Day 7: Sanding, routing Day 8: Rounding, Paint! Day 10: Mounting the rail Day 11: Hanging the door Day 12: Final tweaksFun project, done and done.Handycap BathroomBarn Door BathroomBathroom GoingBathroom RemodelsKid BathroomsBasement BathroomSpace Saving Doors BathroomBathroom PartialRestroom DoorForwardSpace saving door for the bathroom. Need to think of pros anc cons to internal wall sliding door. Pros and Cons of Frameless Shower DoorsCustom Pocket Door Systems Considering a pocket door in your new construction or remodeling project? Pocket doors are not only functional but can add striking architectural interest to the interior décor of any style home. Once popular in the Victorian era to close off parlors and sitting rooms to create comfortable gathering areas, these doors conveniently slide and hide away into the wall cavity.
Today, pocket doors are used for a variety of reasons – both for practical and aesthetic purposes. However, pocket doors do have their challenges and may not be the right solution for every space. Let's take a look at some of the pros and cons of installing pocket doors. Why use pocket doors: Pocket doors are a great solution for installing in tight areas where there is not enough room for a swinging or hinged door. This is especially the case for powder rooms, closets, home offices, pantries, laundry rooms, and other micro spaces. A typical swinging door needs approximately 10 square feet of space to operate. Swinging doors can block or occupy desirable wall space (when the door is open). Sliding pocket doors into the wall cavity is a convenient alternative and can solve that condition. Pocket doors are a great option to make two rooms feel like one large room or be closed off for when more privacy is desired. Adjoining formal dining and family rooms is a perfect example where double doors can be used to separate the two areas – sliding the doors out of sight when extra space is needed for entertaining and closing for more intimate settings.
Sometimes pocket doors are just desirable and are often preferred for the look and feel. Any type of door can be used as a pocket door, whether they are raised, flat panel, v-groove, or glass French-style doors. Because frame systems for pocket doors are built into the wall cavities, electrical components, such as light switches, outlets, or sconces must be carefully planned and coordinated within the wall area. The wall cavity needs to be wide enough to accommodate electrical boxes and wiring, as well as the sliding door. Door hardware needs to clear the framing, so decorative hardware choices are limited to flush or recessed handles. Although a finger should be able to easily pull a smooth gliding door, accessing a recessed handle may be difficult for some people with disabilities. For a solid pocket door framing system and smooth operating doors, 2x6" framed walls are necessary. The 2x6" wider wall cavities allow for more support and stability for the frame and for that reason, the walls are also sturdier.
Pocket door systems made into 2x4" walls can be problematic with wobbly door action and flexible or flimsy walls. Pocket doors do not sit as tightly as hinged doors. As a result, pocket doors are typically not as effective in preventing sound from passing through. If complete privacy is desired, plan for trim details and door sweeps that can help reduce noise. Three or multi-door sliding systems can also be engineered and configured. These systems allow for three or more doors to slide past each other into the wall opening. What to look out for: Don't skimp on the track hardware. There are a lot of different types of hardware kits and pocket doors assemblies available on the market. Look for heavy duty ball bearing rollers for smooth operation and a high quality track that allows for adjustments. Hafele 80Z Model is a good example to use for standard 1¾" solid core or custom panelized doors up to 176 lbs. For heavier doors up to 264 lbs, consider using the Hafele 120A Model.
Most prefabbed wall pocket door systems are made with hollow metal frames and ¾" studs. These types of systems are notorious for being flimsy and will not hold consistent reveals when the door is installed. A better system uses solid framing material such as TimberStrand® with metal edging for more rigidity and support. Make sure the hardware is adjustable for both plumb and level – height and depth adjustments in the pocket and on the track. As new construction framing can sometimes settle, the ability to tune hardware is critical for a smooth and quiet operation. Pocket door header finish trim should align with standard swinging doors throughout the house. Reveal tolerances should be set at 3/16", especially when the door is retracted. These are visual references that really set apart a quality installation. A good pocket door properly installed may not need adjusting for 4 -5 years. However, a high quality finish installation should include hidden fasteners so one side of the finish trim can be easily removed for track hardware adjustments.