Locking Style Horseshoe Latch Aesthetically pleasing and functional, our locking style horseshoe latch is compatible with sliding stall doors or hinged doors (when the appropriate catch is used). It will not work on a dutch door or flush close door. Compatibility: Hinged or Sliding Doors Our slide latch works with sliding or swinging doors that do not need the strength of our locking style horseshoe latch. This latch is made of zinc plated steel and comes with everything you need to install the latch on a wooden door. This slide bolt latch has a rugged steel construction with a zinc plated finish; ideal for wood doors and gate. The slide bolt latch is built 1/2" thick for tough barn environments and can be used in both right and left-hand applications. This top spring bolt installs at the top of the door. It is designed to keep the door closed tightly, securing small-sized swing or slide-fold doors in the closed position. These spring bolts can be used for single or double door applications.
This 1/2" x 6" heavy-duty, zinc-plated spring latch system can be used for many different functions in or around the barn. Some of the most popular uses for these heavy-duty zinc-plated spring latches are for dutch doors, windows, or gates. Compatibility: Dutch Doors, Windows, or Gates This cast iron thumb latch is zinc-plated for superior strength. They can be used for doors that are 1¾" - 2¾" thick. With this thumb latch door system put into place, you will then be able to open your doors from either side. Compatibility: Doors 1¾" - 2¾" Thick Our heavy-duty galvanized door latch is great for barn or shed doors. This heavy-duty door latch is constructed of a durable silver, ultra-seal finish. The front has the ability to be padlocked and the latch system is operational from both sides. Compatibility: Doors 1¼" - 2¾" Thick Heavy-Duty Stainless Steel Door Latch This heavy-duty door latch is constructed of stainless steel, which is great for the durability and life of this latch.
Installing our heavy-duty stainless steel door latch on a barn or shed door is optimal and it can be padlocked. Compatibility: Doors 1¾" - 2½" Thick The iron grip door latch system is one of the best door latch systems available for farm facilities' doors. With the heavy iron handle on one side and heavy flat bar on the other, it makes for a positive slam-locking door latch. Compatibility: Doors 1½" - 2½" Thick Heavy-Duty Flush Pull Handle This recessed heavy-duty flush pull handle is made of a very durable cast iron and is compatible with doors over 1¾" thick. This handle can be used with heavy sliding barn doors, dutch doors, and more! Compatibility: Doors 1¾" Thick RAMM's 9” x 1½" heavy-duty door handle is excellent for large sliding doors! You can either have your heavy-duty door handle's finish be hot-dipped galvanized or powder-coated black to help best fit your barn's design. This bow designed barn door handle is made of cast iron and comes in a smooth powder-coated black finish for excellent resiliency.
This handle mounts to any flat surface and works great for horse stalls, arenas, and barn or bale doors. Compatibility: Bale Doors, Barn Door, Stall Doors, etc. 12" Heavy-Duty Strap Hinge These 12" decorative heavy-duty strap hinges will give your horse barn door an elegant classic look that will set it apart from the rest. Turn your barn into a showplace with the help of these classy barn door hinges! Heavy Duty Rockwood Adjustable Strap Hinge This heavy-duty adjustable strap hinge creates a very strong, unique look with its powder-coated black finish and stainless steel hardware. Sizes are available in 16", 24" and 36". This heavy-duty 10" T-Hinge is hot-dipped galvanized for superior strength and rust protection. It also comes with a removable pin. Madison Decorative Back Plate 24" The decorative plates can be added to the interior or exterior of any door. The plates line up with the hinge holes so a carriage bolt can be used to bolt directly through creating a strong sandwich door system.
This 8" T-Hinge is hot-dipped galvanized for superior strength and rust protection. This flush pull door handle is made out of heavy-duty galvanized formed steel and works great with heavy, wooden barn doors. They recess into the door so horses and other animals don't get caught on the handle. Door Snugger (8 Left!) Keep your doors closed snuggly together with the door snugger. The door snugger can be installed on single or bi-parting doors. Ring and hook simply secure a chain to the desired length for holding bi-parting sliding door together. Compatilibilty: Clad Wood-Frame Doors ½" x 12" - Cane Bolt (3 Left!) This galvanized ½" x 12" cane bolt is used by anchoring one gate, while the gate latch acts as a stop for the other gate. It comes with a variable bolt throw and holder. The cane bolt is designed for both vertical and horizontal applications. ¾" x 24" - Cane Bolt (1 Left!) The cane bolt is used to anchor the bottom of barn doors when two doors meet.
It comes with a variable bolt throw and holder to store the bolt in the open position and preventing removal. 2 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long 2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long 2 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long 1 sheet of 1/4" thick plywood or hardboard (for back) 3 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long 4 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long 6 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long 2 - project panel pieces 17-1/4" x 36" (may be advertised as 18" wide project panel - measure in store) Hardware for sliding doors Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it.
4 - 2x3 @ 84" 4 - 2x3 @ 17" 4 - 2x3 @ 14" 2 - 3/4" thick project panels or plywood 36" x 17-1/4" 5 - 1x4 @ 36" 8 - 1x4 @ 17-3/4" 2 - 1x8 @ 87" 2 - 1x10 @ 87" Middle Shelf Supports and Cleats 5 - 1x2 @ 14" 5 - 1x2 @ 17" 1/4" plywood pieces 36" long 1 - 1x2 @ 90" - both ends cut at 45 degrees, NOT parallel, longest point measurement 2 - 1x2 @ 18-3/4" - one end cut at 45 degrees, longest point measurement 2 - 2x10 @ 91" Doors are cut to fit, overall 20" x 30" Build two frames out of 2x3s. The frames should be screwed together as this is the main support for the entire piece. Use 2-1/2" or longer screws, or for those of you with a Kreg Jig, use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Don't forget to glue the joints. Don't be concrened about being perfect here, the entire frame is concealed. For the sides, add the side panels. This plan is designed to work with project panels 17-1/4" wide.
You can use any material here, plywood or reclaimed wood too. I recommend screwing these to the frames, but you could also use nails and glue - nails should be at least 1-1/4" long. I love how the back overhangs by 1/4" to conceal the back (will put that on in later steps). Now the face frame. With the projec ton it's back, lay out all the face frame boards and glue and nail down. Nails should be at least 1-1/4" long. Pocket hole users could also build the face frame seperately and attach. Lay the bottom shelf boards down on the bottom frame. Nail and glue down, with nails longer than 1-1/4". There can be a gap between the boards, but the shelf should not go past the back of the bottom frame (sides overhang by 1/4" to allow for the back). These guys are for supporting the weight of the middle shelf. Nikki felt they weren't as necessary in a shorter span but for a longer shelf span, it's a good idea to have them. Plus, it also makes construction easier.
Nail and glue down with 1-1/4" nails. You can also add two more at the back of the sides if you want. Build your bottom shelf by attaching bottom shelf boards to the shelf cleats. Use 1-1/4" long nails and glue to attach. Can have a gap in the middle. Place shelf inside console and attach from outsides to secure in place. To get the planked look on the back of the console, Nikki ripped 1/4" plywood into strips and then attached the individual strips to the back. You can also use full sheet of 1/4" plywood. You can use shorter nails here but if you don't want to buy a shorter nail (3/4" would be ideal) the 1-1/4" nails would be fine. The bottom is trimmed out in simple 1x2s, mitered around corners. Use 1-1/4" nails and glue to secure. Attach top with the longer screws you used to build the top frames (2-1/2" or longer) so top is flush to back and side overhangs are even. TIP: You may wish to stain the top boards first. Nikki built the doors shown with 1/2" plywood with smaller strips nailed on top, but you can use a variety of different methods to build the doors (love the reclaimed wood!)