ClearView ScreensSimply The Finest Retractable Screen Ever! The Only Screen That Does Not Snap BackPatented Slow-Close Speed Reducer Technology Committed to American High Standards of Quality Our Patented Speed Reducer Technology Our screens are manufactured with our exclusive, patented "Slow-Close" Speed Reducer. This hydraulically controlled device slows the screen return into the housing, assuring frail or small hands are not caught in the screen as it closes. It provides for a smooth retraction that prevents tearing of the material and abrasion of parts. The ClearView Retractable Screen Systems is the only brand offering a proven "Slow-Close" speed reduction system. Others have tried to imitate it, but none have matched ClearView's superior quality and innovative design. Special Order Blinds & Shades Define your own style with LEVOLOR special order blinds and shades, and create a unique look for any window in your home. Stock Blinds & Shades
Available exclusively at Lowe's, LEVOLOR Stock Blinds and shades can be cut-to-width for free while you shop. Browse our gallery and discover fresh inspiration for your windows and your home. Check out our Pinterest boards tools Order up to 10 free swatches and see how different colors, finishes, and textures will look in your own home. Select My Free SwatchesThis weekend, Scott and I are headed to Mission Viejo, California, where we’ll be diving head first into Akiyo’s family room – with plenty of paint brushes, rollers, lots of lumber and tubes of caulk in tow! We can hardly contain how excited we are to get started. Since announcing the Lowe’s spring makeover campaign in February, we spent hours and hours (and hours) going over each and every application. Your families’ stories showed up in my dreams, your names were thrown around the dinner table as if we were BFFs, and not a day went by that we didn’t say to each other, I wish we could makeover ALL the homes.
So, thank you for sharing your homes – and more importantly, your lives – with us. Thank you for injecting your personalities all over your submissions, and thank you to everyone who gave shout-outs to Jack and Chunk. They howl back at ya, arooo! All that to say, we are so happy to have ‘met’ Akiyo and her family. Together with her 5-year-old son, husband and teeny pup, Katsu, they have recently moved in with her dad, back into the home she grew up in. This home, now her family’s forever home, has been mostly untouched for years, and they were stumped on where to start and how to make it work for everyone – dad/grandpa, their own trio and Katsu, too! It has become a multi-generational home full of silliness and laughter. The family room is where they secretly practice their dance moves (sorry, Akiyo!), sing karaoke and unwind at the end of a long work day. Coming in at 300 sq. ft., the space is so full of potential, and our minds raced with possibilities. Family room, there is so much in store for you!
Here’s what you see when you first walk in: The room is flooded with natural light and an entire wall of windows(!), but almost every piece of furniture is pushed up against the remaining three walls (or under arrest as Scott would say!). Their biggest concern is making sure that there is sufficient seating for the entire family to gather together, snuggle up to a movie or work on crafts at the coffee table. With no central overhead fixture, there is a lack of ambient lighting in the evenings, and the mirror – although great for practicing those dance moves! – feels a bit dated. Katsu has created his own doggie door, i.e., there is a cartoonish puppy-shaped tear through the screen door. The beige walls and carpet could use a pick-me-up, and some extra storage would be nice! Let’s take in a 360-view: We’ve been working behind the scenes on a design plan, and the last couple of months have been a blur of emails, texts and photos of paint swatches. But even more exciting?
Progress is already being made! A ceiling junction box has since been installed, and the wall of mirrors, once adhered with liquid nails, has come down, revealing a sweet little note from the original homeowners. It reads: Wayne Davis | Our new home and mirrors. The message is complete with a sketch of an owl on his perch:You guys, we have new floors! (Okay, Akiyo + family have new floors, but we’re too invested at this point.) We chose this porcelain wood-look tile and had it installed in a random pattern with similarly colored grout. When Akiyo shot us this progress photo, our jaws dropped. The groundwork has been laid! All the celebratory emojis! The in-person completion commences this weekend, and we’ll be sharing snaps on Instagram as we go. (By the way, did you catch Julia’s updates?! We cannot wait to see her makeover!) This spring makeover project is a collaboration with Lowe’s. Lowe’s is providing all the materials necessary to complete this project, but the overuse of exclamation points(!) is all us.
FIND THIS IN Renovation + Demolition+Sponsored RATED BEST BY AMERICA. Your door says a lot about what you value. That’s why LARSON Storm Doors are built to protectIf you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware! You guys already know what happened next: John thoughtfully examined the hardware and announced, "I can TOTALLY make that." And so he did: The total cost for this door - wood and hardware combined - was less than $100. LESS THAN $100, YOU GUYS. Metal rails & tubing - $25
If you already have the door, then that's only $55 for the hardware - $55 versus $400. It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. (If you're making the door, you'll also need a circular saw - or a hand saw and a whole bunch of patience. :D) So...you ready for this?! Then let's get to it. There are several ways to make a simple plank door. We used exterior tongue-and-groove board normally used for house siding: (The opposite side is a classic bead board.) Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries. The three skinny boards you see on top there aren't attached; they're just there to act as a brace for the straps and to make sure the door doesn't bend: Lock those straps down tight! Once the glue has dried the next day, attach cross-boards to the door, if you like.
(You don't have to, but they do add extra support & visual interest.) Here I've also distressed my door by banging it up with a hammer and screw: Now stain or paint the door to your preference: I stained mine to match the cabinet doors we just made. Now, on to the hardware! You'll need two 2.5 inch pulleys that look like this: Lowe's and Home Depot didn't have them, but John finally tracked some down at Ace Hardware. (I also found some here on Amazon for about $13 each.) The only part of the pulley you need is the center wheel, though, so pull the center pin and pop that out: Now take a bar of 1.5 inch solid steel (available at any hardware store), and stick one end of it in a table vise: Bend it down as you see John doing here. (This really doesn't require a lot of strength; the leverage of the bar does all the work for you.) The hook you've just made is what's going to hold your wheel. You need to clean up the hook shape, though, so next remove it from the vise and bang the bend flat with a hammer:
You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Odds are you'll have to flatten it a bit too far, so now pry the hook back up a bit: ...and then slip the pulley casing in to get the distance right: Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Now test the fit with your wheel; it should fit perfectly, with just the right amount of wiggle room on either side of the wheel: That's one bracket done! Now cut your bar to whatever length your door requires: And repeat the whole process for bracket number two. (You can see here that John bent both hooks on either side of the bar and then just cut it in half.) You may also want to grind down your cut edges, in case they're too sharp. When you have both brackets ready, it's time to attach the wheels. Drill a hole straight through each hook, piercing both layers of steel:
Your wheel will be supported by a pin placed through these holes. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door.If you plan to paint your hardware, now's the time to do it! We used a flat black metal primer. (I plan to age it with a little sanding later.) Attach your bar brackets to your door. I didn't grab a photo before we hung the door, but here's a close-up of the hardware: Now all that's left is the rolly bar! This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it. Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. Now my lovely hand model will demonstrate how this bar will attach to your wall:
Ok, so here you've got a honkin' (technical term) concrete anchor in John's right hand. That goes in the wall. That long screw sticking out goes in the anchor. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. The tube acts as your spacer - very important. Each of the holes you drilled in your bar will have this same set up. When it's installed, your bar should look something like this: Note again that the bolts are located on the lower third of the bar, not the middle. This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them. Ok, so get this: YOU'RE DONE! All you have to do is lift your door into place on the track, and get to sliding! That's all the stuff it's covering up: pretty much our entire pantry. The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us.
Finally - no more clutter, and no more dusty cereal boxes! Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. You can also install a stop on the rolly bar itself, though. Totally up to you. I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. There may be some slight differences, but overall it's the same techniques we used. (And I found it - where else? - on Pinterest. Well, hope you guys liked seeing the next stage of our laundry room makeover! We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater. That bit's not quite finished yet, though, so believe me when I say I'm probably WAY more excited to see this than you guys are.