If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection belowYou are here » » » Doors Exterior Door Specifications Sheet Tilt and Turn Windows Door Hinges and Accessories Inswing or Outswing Doors How to Install Interior Doors What is a Pre-Hung Door? How to Determine the Door Size Door Jambs / Casing / Extension Door Locks / Handles Explained A pre-hung door comes from our warehouse installed in a door frame. It is purchased with door hinges attached to the door and frame. The benefits are easier installation, elimination of the need for taking exact measurements, saved time and cost over contractors' labor. A pre-hung door is pre-cut for locks and handles. Different options are available depending on model you choose. Ville Doors offers two types of door locks: mortise and tubular.
It's very important to understand the difference between these two. Pre-cutting for mortise locks is a more complicated job, thus the labor cost is higher. Mortise locks come only with PRIVACY door handles "Marchello" and "Rome"., as well as with PRIVACY sliding door keyed locks. Privacy door handles have a locking mechanism from the inside, but also have an emergency release access hole from the outside. Pre-cutting for a tubular lock Pre-cutting for a mortise lock. Mortise locks are also available for sliding doors. Sliding Door Lock Schematics Butterfly Hinges Hidden Hinges Ville Doors offers five types of pre-hanging. A door is pre-hung on butterfly hinges and pre-drilled for a tubular lock. The cost is $60. A door is pre-hung on hidden hinges and pre-drilled for a tubular lock. The cost is $90. A door is pre-hung on butterfly hinges and pre-drilled for a mortise lock.
Mortise locks come with privacy door handles "Rome" and "Marchello". The cost is $99.95 A door is pre-hung on hidden hinges and pre-drilled for a mortise lock. The cost is $125. Sliding or pocket door is pre-cut for a mortise lock. The cost is $45.Skip to main content. Home Guides Home Home Improvement How Much Does a Garage Door Installation Cost? Windows add to the price of a garage door. A garage door can be the largest opening into a house, allowing a homeowner to park a car and store large items inside the garage. The price of a garage door installation depends on a variety of factors, including the type of door, size of door and material used. Steel doors are generally less expensive than wooden doors. A thicker, well-insulated door raises the price. A door with windows costs more than one without. And if you want an electric opener, that also increases the price. Labor Costs May Vary The price of a garage door factors in the cost of materials, including connectors, adhesives and fasteners and the price of labor.
A garage door should be installed by a professional as it can entail precise carpentry and electrical work. A professional garage door installation can usually be done within a day. Receiving bids from several reputable contractors can help you get the best value on installation costs. References Homewyse: Cost to Install a Garage DoorHome Advisor: How Much Does it Cost to Install a Garage Door Photo Credits Jupiterimages/liquidlibrary/Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionInterior doors are often taken for granted, but they are crucial to the overall quality of a home. Well-installed doors open and close smoothly and stay open when you want them to—and should be able to withstand the occasional teenage or matrimonial slam!Interior door installation starts with the framing. Rough openings need to be the right size, in the right place, and framed with good stock. Each opening should be plumb, level, and in plane with itself and the surrounding wall. Trimmers need to be square in the opening and securely nailed, as well as exactly flush with the adjacent king studs to keep the wall thickness consistent.
You can always hang a door in a bad opening, but it will take longer, and trimming the door neatly will be a challenge.Good house plans call out the sizes of all interior doors, and some provide a schedule of rough openings. I always check the plans carefully, verifying that each door will fit with enough room left for trim, light switches, structural columns, and other details. I also verify that the opening height works with any special issues (such as the radiant subflooring heating used in the project shown here). After the house is framed and all systems are roughed in—but before wall finishes are installed—I check every opening with a long level. Often, framing lumber will have bowed or twisted, or a plate will have shifted, or I’ll find some other problem that I can fix now to save myself trouble later. While I’m doing this, I also label every opening with the door’s nominal size and handing. For the benefit of the sub-tradespeople, I mark the hinge side and draw an arc on the floor to indicate swing direction.
The order for pre-hung doors starts with a master list. I give each door in the house a number or letter, and to avoid mix-ups, I also include its location in the house. I generally start by listing general specifications: slab type and finish, jamb material, style and thickness, hardware, and so on. Often, individual doors will have specific differences, so the general spec will be followed by “except where noted.” Then each door is listed with information about it: size (height and width), handing, hardware prep, and any differences from the standard specs. Some suppliers will send a sales rep out to make the list for you, but I prefer to make my own.Start each door with a final check of the opening, making sure that the door will fit and that there’s nothing unusual to contend with. If door location within the opening is critical—to center it in a space, for example, or to align it with another component—note what its exact position needs to be. If there are other doors nearby, check the overall level of the floor to make sure the head jambs all line up.
Next, check the floor across the doorway for level and under each jamb to make sure the opening is perpendicular to the floor. If the floor is sloped or stepped, adjust the jamb cuts for the best fit. Jamb-leg length is strictly a function of the door-slab height and the clearance that’s needed above the floor or threshold. In most houses, the height of the jambs rarely varies. Ideally, leave 1/2 to 1 inch of clearance between the top jamb and the header framing to allow for settling and to let the casing bridge slight differences between the jamb and wall finish. During the initial steps of cutting and fitting, keep in place the temporary fasteners that hold the door slab in its jamb. To cut the jamb legs, roll the unit onto one edge. Then measure the jamb leg, mark it, and cut it to length. Flip the unit onto its other edge and repeat the process. Check to be sure that the hinge screws haven’t come through the back of the jamb; they can quickly ruin a finished floor. With the door slab still secured in its jamb, stand the unit up in the opening and make sure the head jamb is perfectly level.
If it’s not level, set the door down again and trim the appropriate jamb. When the bubble is dead center, release the temporary fasteners holding the door in its jamb, and set the unit in the rough opening. Unless you’ve noted differently, center the door in the opening and secure the hinge jamb just above the top hinge with a couple of shims and nails. To anchor the assembly in the opening, shoot a single nail through the jamb at each of the other three corners. Then shim and nail the rest of the hinge jamb. Rather than using a level to plumb the slab, insert shims behind the bottom of the hinge jamb just below the hinge. Adjust the shims until the margin between the door slab and head jamb is perfect across the top. If the head jamb is level, then the door should be plumb, but double-check it with a long level. When you’re happy with the fit, drive a couple of additional nails to secure the bottom of the hinge jamb. Then shim and nail just above the middle hinge to make sure the jamb stays straight.
When the hinge jamb is straight and secure, turn your attention to the strike jamb. Starting at the bottom, adjust the jamb in or out to keep an even space between the door slab and the jamb. Once that space is even, insert shims between the jamb and the framing close to the floor, and snug them in place before nailing through them. At the top of the strike jamb, insert shims just below the head jamb. Next, check to make sure the door is hitting the stop evenly. If it’s not, give the jamb a gentle tap until it’s perfectly even before securing the top with additional nails. Finally, shim and secure the middle of the latch jam just above the striker location. When finished, the door should open and close smoothly, show a perfect margin all the way around, and hit the stop evenly with a satisfying solid clunk. To make shims, rip stacks of shingles into 2-inch to 3-inch widths. Insert the same number of shims from each side, except to make up for twisted framing. When each door is hung, cut the shims flush with a utility knife or multi-tool.
Double doors are trickier to hang than single doors, but the basic process is the same. With the double door shown here, the floor was out of level. Placing a shim under the level showed how much had to be added to the jamb leg to make the head jamb level. That amount was added to the measurement of the longer leg and then both jamb legs were cut. As with a single door, the unit was set in the opening—this time with the temporary fasteners removed—and the head jamb checked to make sure it was level. To hang double doors, instead of starting with a set of shims on one side, swing the doors open and shoot a single 2 1/2-inch 15-gauge finish nail through the jambs at each of the four corners. These nails hold everything loosely in place and let you adjust the jambs as needed. Next, shim the top of each side jamb, centering it in the opening. Shoot only one nail through the shims—it’s important to be able to shift the jambs slightly to align the door. At this point, shim and nail the top jamb, using the edge of a level to get the jamb perfectly straight.