3-Year Home Improvement Protection Plan 2-Year Home Improvement Protection Plan New (3) from $32.17 Ships from and sold by Next Day MRO. See more product details Next Day MRO 805711 Oil Rubbed Bronze Interior Door Hinges 5/8-Inch Radius, 3.5 L x 3.5 H Inches, 30 Piece Kwikset Cove Bed/Bath Knob in Venetian Bronze FREE Shipping on orders over . DetailsKwikset Cove Hall/Closet Knob in Venetian Bronze FREE Shipping on orders over . 30 oil rubbed bronze interior door butt hinges. 3.5 inch x 3.5 inch, x 5/8 inch radius rounded corner door hinges fit residential interior doors. Beautifully colored, these hinges provide a quick and attractive update to any home. 3.5 x 0.1 x 3.5 inches 4.4 out of 5 stars #9,283 in Home Improvements (See top 100) #5 in Home Improvement > Hardware > Door Hardware & Locks > Hinges 11.7 pounds (View shipping rates and policies) Currently, item can be shipped only within the U.S. and to APO/FPO addresses.
For APO/FPO shipments, please check with the manufacturer regarding warranty and support issues. This item is not eligible for international shipping. If you are a seller for this product, would you like to suggest updates through seller support? Would you like to tell us about a lower price? 5 star71%4 star15%3 star6%2 star2%1 star6%See all verified purchase reviewsTop Customer ReviewsThese are gloss black, not oil rubbed bronze! Love these rustic hinges.Good Quality for the Price.Totally a steal!I can't say how durable/long lasting they are but they seem like they will get the job donethis is a great price and they seemed to be exactly what I ...BewareGood for the price! See all customer images What Other Items Do Customers Buy After Viewing This Item? Kwikset Cove Bed/Bath Knob in Venetian Bronze Kwikset Cove Hall/Closet Knob in Venetian BronzeHager 3 1/2 Inch Oil Rubbed Bronze Door Hinges with 5/8" Radius CornersAbout how much is it to replace a garage entry door w/ installation?
September 11, 2012 Subscribe I need to replace the entry door to the garage soon, but with an extremely tight budget, limited time, an angry mother, and an asshole older brother. How to Install Weatherstripping on an Entry Door for a Tight Seal Viewing in Doors & Windows A 1/32” gap around the edge of an entry door can let in as much cold air as a two-inch hole smack in the center. Imagine how that would feel on a wintry day. The good news is you can eliminate drafty leaks around exterior doors with this simple-to-apply weatherstripping that installs in minutes and lasts for years. The integrated vinyl tubing makes an excellent seal against moisture and air. With the door closed, measure the length of the doorstop on the hinge side of the door frame. Then, transfer that measurement to a length of weatherstripping. Next, draw a straight cutting line. Cut the vinyl tubing with a utility knife and the metal with a hacksaw, using a very fine 32-tooth-per-inch blade.
Using a self-centering drill bit, drill pilot holes and then install the screws. When the right and left sides are in place, measure and cut the top. Attach the top piece the same way the sides. With the weatherstripping installed, you can tell just by the sound of the closing door that it's well sealed and that drafts are going to stay outside where they belong. Sealing the Bottom of a Door One of the easiest to install solutions for the bottom of an entry door is a door sweep like the one pictured here. These are available from hardward stores, home improvment centers and Amazon. Click here to view. Pre-Hung Door From Parts A 24" wide solid wood door is ripped narrower and hinge pockets are routed with a guide template and template bushing. The door is mounted on the jambs and held together with braces. 3-4 (Moderate to Advanced) In our double-bathroom remodel project we were faced with a minor challenge. We wanted to keep some
form of adjoining door, similar to what the previous owner had installed when they first converted the bedroom to bathrooms. our revised floor plan, there was minimal room for a door, onlySo we purchased a 24 inch wide solid wood 6-panel door, with the intent of ripping it narrower, once the exact dimensions of the opening were known. We knew there was no way we could rely on cutting 2 inches from a hollow-core door... they often only have about 1 inch of side rail material. As the title suggests, the essence of this job is creating a pre-hung door from readily available materials. This is the door rough opening. because it is narrow... only 24 inches. The raw materials, from left to right: The 6-panel solid door, the door jambs, the colonial door stopThe door has just been ripped narrower, by cutting 1 inch from each side, on a table saw. A close-up view of the top ends of the sideThese are sold as single boards, about 82" long,
with this rabbet cut into the top end. These jambs are actually veneer-covered plywood. people call this engineered lumber.) should be very stable and not be prone to warping orJamb material is normally 5/8" thick. jambs were 4 - 9/16" inches wide... just right for a 2x4 wall with 1/2" drywall on each side. This is a close-up of the colonial door stop trim, purchased by the lineal foot from the local Home Depot. The edges of the door were quite rough from the sawing operation, so we sanded the edges down with a beltThis took about 3 minutes. The door is held in a custom fixture that we made. the edge of a door is a major pain in the rear unless the door is held firmly... on edge. Then we finish-sanded the edges with a fine-grit The basic Black & Decker router. economical power tool has come in handy many times. And the best thing about this B&D router... it accepts template guide bushings made by Porter Cable ($30
at The Ho' Depot). The Porter Cable guide bushings have a knurled locking ring that clamps the steel bushing into place. The guide bushing rubs against the metal guide plate... and prevents the router bit from from hitting the guide (which would surely destroy the bit). It sounds like a lot of trouble, but it The Porter Cable bushing set has 7 differentThese devices are necessary for projects such as routing letters and signs. The other product used here is a Butt Hinge Template set from Sears. This $8 set includes a template for 4" hinges (typically for exterior doors) and a template for 3-1/2" hinges (for interior doors), which is the one For the top hinge, we made a mark 5-1/2" below the door's top. For the bottom hinge we made a mark 9-1/2" above the bottom of the door. The template is set against the door edge (the hinge pin goes on the same side as my hand) with the lower edge of the steel against the pencil mark.
Note the little notch in the steel, right above my pinky... this 1/8" deep notch serves a purpose... for helping to layout the hinge position on the door jamb. the product's instructions is crucial here. This is kind of hard to explain, even with pictures. We attached the template with pan-head sheetThe instructions recommend nails... but they never worked for me, the wood grain diverts the nail and the template ends up crooked. Setting the cutting tool depth: We placed both hinges on top of the template and sat the router on top of that. Then we positioned the cutting bit so it was just touching the wood... And away we go. This is easy, just turn the power on and swish the router around inside the confines of That was quick, maybe a minute. The black marks on the wood are burn marks. bit was really dull (I know what you're thinking... justso we stopped to sharpen it. actually cut the wood, and left no burn marks.
Before the template is removed: We measured from the top of the door to the bottom of the notch. This will be the measurement used to lay out the template on the jamb. This measurement is taken for each hinge, always from the top of the door to the bottom of the notch. The routed hinge pocket. Remember that this can be done with just a chisel and hammer, but that is a chore, and it often leaves an uneven surface, which puts the hinge out of alignment, and causes too much grief. I will never go back to the old We used a 1 inch chisel to remove the rounded Here's another "must have" tool. tool is called a Vix bit. It is a drill bit inside aThe guide is tapered and fits into the conical hole of the hinges. Just drill and push and the hinge holes are aligned perfectly. Here's a little demonstration. pokes through the hole in the hinge, while the guide keeps it The Vix bit really helps give professional results, and
This tool was bought at Sears, in a kit with some other gadgets, for about $20. Other stores and catalogs carry The template was laid out on the jamb. The measurements we took above (before removing the templates) are marked on the jamb, measured from the edge of the rabbet (where the finished surface ends, not the end of the board) Then, the normal edge of the template (not the notch) is laid against the pencil mark.This results in the hinge being 1/8" lower on the jamb than on the door... which means that the assembled unit has a 1/8" gap between the top jamb and the top of the door... which is WHAT YOU WANT. this rigmarole, you would end up taking the door off the hinges and sanding or planing the top to create a little one-eighth-inch gap. Can you say H-A-S-S-L-E ? The hinges were installed on the door... ... and then the jamb was held in place and the hingesLuckily, our work was accurate enough that
only a minor adjustment in one hinge pocket was required, which was done with a knife. The top jamb was cut to length (the door width, 22", plus 1/4" for the two side gaps, plus the Then the side was nailed into the top with a couple of The striker-side jamb was also nailed to theWe kept the door off the floor with some blocks of wood, so the protruding hinges would not get in the way. We also drove in some 2" deck screws to hold the jambs together. Then we cut the colonial door stop trim (the top joints are beveled, which was done on a power miter saw) and fastened them with 1" brads. We used scraps of cardboard to provide a small gap between the door and stop. the stop trim will fit too tightly and the paint will rub off. This is really only necessary on the hinge side.) Finally, we tacked a couple of scraps of lumber across the jambs, to hold everything together. technique borrowed from the manufacturers of pre-hung doors.