Need replacement parts for your Pella windows and doors? Virtually any part of your Pella product can be replaced, including crank handles, sash locks, key locks for doors, exterior touch-up paint and more. Please follow these simple steps to facilitate your replacement parts order: 1. Find your original Pella order number on your invoice, or the original purchase order number on your sales receipt. Note: If you don’t have your receipt, please write down the Unit ID/Serial Number on your Pella product. If you need help locating the Unit ID/Serial Number on your window or patio door, find your material type below and click on the link to view the video: Wood Windows and Patio Doors | Fiberglass Windows and Patio Doors | Vinyl Windows and Patio Doors 2. Identify the material type and product line, then click on your product type (shown right) to determine the name of the part. 3. Once you have this information, just go to our to order your part. 4. If you can’t find the part you need, please call Pella Customer Support at 1-877-473-5527 for assistance.
Note: Times are Central Time Monday-Friday 7 a.m. – 7 p.m. Saturday 8 a.m. – 3 p.m. To learn more about our Shipping and Returns policies click here. Order Pella Replacement Parts Online » Return a Replacement Part » Wood with Aluminum Clad – Architect Series® – Replacement Parts Wood with Aluminum Clad – Designer Series® – Replacement Parts Wood with Aluminum Clad – Pella® ProLine – Replacement Parts Fiberglass – Pella® Impervia® – Replacement Parts Vinyl – Encompass by Pella® and ThermaStar by Pella® –FREE SHIPPING ON QUALIFYING ORDERS $49 OR MORE Prices, promotions, styles, and availability may vary. Our local stores do not honor online pricing. Prices and availability of products and services are subject to change without notice. Errors will be corrected where discovered, and Lowe's reserves the right to revoke any stated offer and to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions including after an order has been submitted.
Founded in 1983, Bunting Door & Hardware Co. is one of the largest distributors of Hollow Metal Doors and Frames, Wood Doors, Architectural Hardware, Specialty Doors and Bath Accessories in the Mid-Atlantic region, servicing commercial construction companies and institutional clients. Bunting's services include estimating and project management for commercial and multi-tenant construction projects and specification advice for architects and owners. Our "start to finish" approach also includes installation services, field inspection, locksmith services, and door repair. Our staff includes Architectural Hardware Consultants and Green Advantage Certified employees. We are members of the Door & Hardware Institute, Associated Builders & Contractors and the Building Congress & Exchange. Bunting is independently certified for chain of custody for the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). Bunting Door & Hardware is a stocking distributor of Curries and Steelcraft metal doors and frames, and Mohawk wood doors.
We also carry Eggers and Algoma wood doors and hardware from major manufacturers including Corbin Russwin, Yale, Sargent, Schlage, Von Duprin, LCN, Dorma, Best/Stanley, Rockwood, National Guard and many others. Bunting's large selection of Hollow Metal Doors and Frames is in stock and ready for immediate delivery. Our Warnock Hersey licensed fabrication shop can handle most modifications and our quick-ship custom suppliers can accommodate almost any special design requirement. We can supply STC rated assemblies, blast and bullet resistant doors, stainless steel doors and frames, temperature rise doors, fiberglass, AMP and FRP doors and frames, interior aluminum doors and frames and embossed panel doors. Bunting Door & Hardware is a stocking distributor of fire rated, particle core and hollow core wood doors. We inventory primed hardboard, red oak and birch doors and can draw from a large array of vendors to satisfy nearly any veneer and finish requirement. Our Warnock Hersey licensed wood door shop performs custom modifications.
As an independently certified distributor, we can help you meet LEED and FSC chain of custody requirements as well. Our vendors include Mohawk, Eggers, Algoma, Harring Stile & Rail Doors, Maiman, Graham and Trustile doors. Bunting carries a large variety of architectural hardware. With our extensive range of stock products, quick ship programs, an in-house locksmith shop and our group of highly qualified employees, including Architectural Hardware Consultants (AHC), Bunting is prepared to address even the most difficult hardware challenge. Combining a full line of hinges, cylindrical and mortise locks, panic exit devices, door closers, electric strikes, mag locks, automatic door operators, weather stripping products, thresholds, door stops, pushes, pulls, protection plates and bath accessories with our vendor's quick ship programs and a dedicated group of wholesale partners, Bunting can quickly deliver products to meet the most stringent project schedule. Bunting Door & Hardware has an experienced Installation Team to assist with any size job, from servicing or replacing a single commercial swinging door to installation of a complete new-construction or renovation project.
All of our highly trained installation employees can install and service hollow metal, aluminum interior, fiberglass, wood and specialty doors. We can replace existing frames or install new doors in or repair existing openings. Our installers have experience installing virtually any type of hardware, trim or accessory for swinging doors. We specialize in the most complicated commercial hardware items such as concealed vertical rod panic devices, handicapped door operators, electronic locks, electromagnetic locks and floor closers. Our Installation Department is a vital part of the building maintenance program of many Hospitals, retirement Communities, Condominiums, Apartment complexes and Commercial Office and Industrial buildings. Why do I have to lift up on the handle to open my door? How do I install the screw cover strips? Fit the straight, outer leg into the mounting rail first, and then snap in the inner leg, which may have a hook. Start at the top end, and slide your finger down the strip while pressing firmly.
If one or both legs are damaged or bent, the screw cover strips need to be . How wide will my door open? Why won’t my storm door close? You likely need to adjust the closer. The storm door's bottom expander sweep may be dragging on the threshold. Loosen the two expander screws and raise the expander so that the rubber sweep just touches the top of the threshold. There may be a pocket of air pressure between the primary door and storm door. To create an escape route for the air, try raising the storm door expander or leaving the storm door window slightly open. The hinge rail screws may be too tight. Loosen the hinge rail installation screws a ¼ turn to relax the tension. How can I stop my door from squeaking when it opens and closes? If your door is new, the hinges could be tight until they receive some use. Lubricate the hinges with silicone spray or 3-in-1 oil. The inside hinge rail screws could be too tight. Loosen them a ¼ turn to relax the tension.
The door opening may be out of square, which can happen as a home settles. You will need to adjust the door opening square and plumb so the storm door can perform as designed. Why does my door leak? If water is coming in around the window opening, the drainage holes (also known as weep holes) may be blocked. Inspect and clean the drainage holes, which are located on the outside of door just below the window area. You’ll gain top performance with the top glass panel in the outside track, overlapping the bottom glass panel in the inside track. Reverse the panels if needed. Caulking behind the top drip cap and the mounting rails can prevent water or air from leaking around the edges of the door. You may find water in the bottom expander after a rain. This occurrence is normal, and the water will naturally drain to the outside when you open the door. How do I adjust my door to make it close faster or slower? How do I hold my storm door in the open position?
My primary entry door hits against the storm door closer. How can I correct this? Move the closer bracket nearer to the storm door. If it still hits, you can try adding shims under the side and top mounting rails to move the storm door further away from the entry door. Why does my closer make a popping noise? My handle came off the door-what do I do? Many handles are held in place by a set screw, and the set screw likely came loose. Reattach the handle, and firmly tighten the set screw. If the set screw is stripped and cannot be tightened, the handle will need to be . Some handle sets require a D-Clip on the back side of the trim plate for the outside handle, which may have come loose. With the outside handle inserted through the outside trim plate, slide the D-Clip through the grooves on the end of the handle. Insert the spindle into the handle, and complete the handle installation. What can I do if my deadbolt is stuck or not working? The storm door deadbolt and latch side rail are likely misaligned, which can prevent the deadbolt from retracting.
To unjam the deadbolt, remove the latch side rail installation screws. This will loosen the tension on the deadbolt allowing it to retract and the door to open. Once the door is open, operate the handle and turn the deadbolt. If either does not operate when the door is open, the hardware needs to be replaced. If the handle set and deadbolt move freely when the door is open, the deadbolt may be hitting the edge of the strike plate. Adjust the strike plate to allow the deadbolt to move freely. To determine in which direction and how much to move it, apply some lipstick to the edge of the deadbolt. When the door is closed, engage the deadbolt all the way. Open the door, and if there is a lipstick mark on the latch rail or strike plate, adjust as needed. Wipe the plate clean, and repeat the test until the deadbolt engages freely and doesn’t leave a mark. If there is not lipstick on the strike plate, but there is a mark on the back surface of the deadbolt hole, the deadbolt hole in the door frame needs to be deepened with a chisel.
How do I clean my brass handle set? Several handle sets are solid brass. These handle sets have a clear coat finish to protect the brass. Over time, the clear coat finish can wear through or be compromised by nicks from rings and keys, exposing the solid brass to the elements. Unprotected brass will tarnish under this exposure. Brass has an enduring quality, in that it can be refurbished to its original polished finish again and again by using a quality brass polish and a soft cloth. Remove the hardware from the door so the finish of the door will not be affected. See the hardware instructions for removal. NOTE: you may be able to leave the hardware in place on the door when polishing the handle only – make certain to completely mask off all areas around the handle before starting. If polishing the key cylinder, protect the internal mechanism by covering the opening with tape. Use a quality brass polish or cleaner to clean the brass - follow the product’s directions and cautions.
Note: Firm rubbing may be necessary to loosen the coating on the brass. a. Use the properties from the brass polish you used to clean the brass. (Easiest method, but requires more frequent polishing.) b. Apply a high quality, non-abrasive, polymer-based automobile wax to seal the surface. c. Apply a new clear coat with a clear lacquer spray - follow the product’s directions. (Most difficult, but lasts the longest.) PLEASE NOTE: If you removed the hardware from the door, lubricate any internal workings with a spray lubricant. Re-install the hardware on the door. How should I clean my high performance Low-E glass? How can I adjust my Rolscreen® screen so that it doesn’t blow out or push out on the sides? The screen is designed to blow out in heavy winds or when pushed on to prevent damage to the screen. To reset the screen into the sides, slowly lower the glass all the way to the bottom. Then raise the glass all the way to the top. Slowly lower the glass again, and the screen should be reset.
Why does the glass panel drop a bit when I release it? When not locked into place, it is normal for the top glass panel to drop 1–3 inches. If the sash consistently drops more than 3 inches, there may be an issue with the screen tension. Contact our support center. What if my glass will not stay up at the top? What should I do if the screen will not retract? The screen balance mechanism may need to be reset. Lower the glass panel about half way. Open the door, and place a hand on each side of the screen material-one inside and one outside of the door. Pull down on the screen about six inches and then release it. The screen should snap up, resetting the tension of the rolling mechanism. The screen roll may have come out of its brackets. Remove the cover that is over the screen roll. The screen cassette should be seated in a bracket on each end. Adjust the screen if needed. A thread from the fray on the edge of the screen could be caught in the screen roll.