"People ask me all of the time if there's really a difference between skincare products, and there is," Dr. David Colbert, M.D., a cosmetic dermatologist in NYC, says. "Just like there's a difference between inexpensive and designer clothing — the latter is made with finer fabrics. But, that doesn't mean products that don't break the bank won't work or serve a purpose — it's just more about knowing when to reach for the formulas with the heavy-hitting ingredients that bring about results." So, that said, what should you save on and what should you shell out a little cash for? SAVE on sunscreen: Everyone should be wearing SPF on a daily basis — rain or shine, winter or summer — because it prevents premature aging and skin cancer. So, since you should be going through bottles and bottles of it quickly, don't worry about splurging on it. "Plus, it doesn't have to be expensive to be good," he says. Look for one that is labeled non-comedogenic and make sure to wash your face at night.
SAVE on daily moisturizer: "This is especially true if you already have oily skin, since you already have enough natural moisturization," Colbert says. "A daily moisturizer is really only there to form a barrier between your skin and the outside world," Joanna Vargas, celebrity facialist and founder of her eponymous salon, says. Your sunscreen can also double as a face lotion, cutting out an entire product entirely. But, if you feel like you need some added hydration, both Colbert and Vargas agree that an inexpensive daily moisturizer is perfectly fine to use. Try Simple Skincare Replenishing Rich Moisturizer.SAVE on cleanser: If you have normal skin with zero issues and you don't need your wash to have special skills, then you can save on your cleanser. Try Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Hydrating Cleanser. "But, if you have trickier skin that breaks out easily or gets irritated, it's a good idea to invest in a formula that has ingredients that will benefit your specific skin type," Vargas says.
SPLURGE on serums: Serums can be used during the day and at night and have highly concentrated ingredients in them. "Their molecular concentration is different than a cream's consistency, so they're able to penetrate the skin better and deeper," Vargas says. If you splurge on a serum, your skin will be able to absorb so many good nutrients that will show the best result. Vargas is all about the organic way, so she suggests looking for ingredients like green tea (for tightening), olive and argan oil (which are both anti-inflammatory and antioxidants, so they protect your elasticity against pollution and other outside elements that can break down collagen), and hyaluranic acid (which holds 1,000 times its weight in water, so it attracts and holds moisture so your skin stays hydrated). "I even added chlorophyll and wheatgrass into the Daily Serum in my line because these two ingredients help to oxygenate the skin, making you look more youthful," she says. SPLURGE on anti-aging creams: If serums aren't your thing and you want to wear a cream to bed, Colbert says to splurge.
His philosophy: nighttime is the time to regenerate, heal, and soothe, especially since you're lying still. "You'll want to look for a formula that contains vitamins E and C (they'll hydrate and brighten skin), a silk peptide (which helps build collagen), a retinoid (that helps regulate the exfoliation process so your pores and skin stays clear), or Qusome technology," he says. The latter is Colbert's creation; Qusome technology is like a bunch of little Trojan horses that enter the skin tricking it into allowing the active ingredients to go deeper into the dermis (beneath the top layer of skin), closer to the fibroblasts that make collagen. Try his Colbert, M.D. Heal and Soothe Night Cream and SkinCeuticals Resveratrol B E.SPLURGE on a chemical exfoliator: Feel free to go to the drugstore and pick up your favorite Biore Pore Unclogging Scrub that will slough away dead cells instantly. But, if you want to get a deeper exfoliation, you're going to need a product with heavy hitting chemical exfoliants that will penetrate into your skin and dissolve any oil build-up that's deep in your pores.
Colbert suggests looking for exfoliators that contain glycolic or lactic acid to keep your pores and skin clear. Try First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads, which contains both acids. SAVE on eye cream: The key with eye cream is to start using it in your 20s to make sure that area is constantly hydrated. The more dehydrated that area becomes, the more lines you'll start to notice as you age; the more moisturized it is, the springier your skin will stay so that when you smile your skin will snap right back into place without leaving a crease (that overtime will turn into a wrinkle) behind. When looking for an eye cream though, Vargas recommends something with cucumber in it to help de-puff your eye area, cocoa butter to keep the area hydrated, and green tea to help constrict your blood vessels to lessen the appearance of dark circles. Try Yes to Carrots Sensitive Skin Soothing Eye Gel, which has cucumber, green tea, and hydrating glycerin. SAVE or splurge on masks: It's really about the ingredients when it comes to masks.
"With lesser quality ingredients, you won't get the best results," Vargas says. But, that doesn't mean you have to spend, spend, spend to get a good formula. St. Ives Mineral Clay Firming Mask contains kaolin clay, which Vargas is a fan of, because it extracts impurities from your skin. She also suggests looking for a mask with arnica, which is anti-inflammatory, and yogurt to calm the skin. You could also go for one that you can leave on overnight that provides a healthy dose of hyaluronic acid to keep your skin youthful looking, like Kiehl's Ultra Facial Overnight Hydrating Masque.SAVE on lip balm: All you need is a lip balm with vitamin E. This ingredient is an antioxidant that naturally protects against sun damage, pollutants, and loss of elasticity. "Wrinkles are brought on by cell mutations and cells mutate from the sun and pollution, so if you can prevent your cells from mutating by feeding it the right vitamins, you won't get lines," Vargas says. Swipe on Maybelline New York Baby Lips Lip Balm.SAVE or splurge on body lotion: This is really up to your own personal preference, but you don't need to splurge on body lotion if you don't want to.