Performed by Jerry Garcia with David Grisman. Some setlists have it as "Old Rockin' Chair Blues." Not to be confused with Red Rocking Chair also performed by Garcia/Grisman. alternate take also available as a download. I ain't got no use for your red rocking chair I (3b) ain't got no sugar baby 1m now No I (3b) ain't got no honey baby 1m now And it's who'll rock the cradle, and who'll sing this song Who'll be your honey when I'm gone I'll rock the cradle, and I'll sing this song I'll rock the cradle when you're gone yes I'll rock the cradle when you're gone Laid her in the shade, gave her every dime I made What more could a poor boy do I've done all I can do, said all I can say I'll sing it to your mama next payday Some old rounder come along, took my sugar babe and gone And I ain't got no sugar baby now No I ain't got no honey baby now A song from the The ToneWay Mountain Music Collection,
which offers lyrics and free Song Clips (recordings for learning the song by ear) for nearly 400 traditional songs, many of which are often heard in bluegrass and old-time jam circles. The ToneWay Project also offers songbooks, CDs, and a free online video series for learning to play music by ear. The requested URL '/discography/showsong.php%3Fchord%3D347' was not found on this server.VitraEames Plastic ChairInformationProducts of the familyDesigner Eames Plastic ChairsCharles & Ray Eames, 1950'Getting the most of the best to the greatest number of people for the least': with these words, Charles and Ray Eames described one of their main goals as furniture designers. None of their other designs come as close to achieving this ideal as the Plastic Chairs. For years, the designer couple explored the fundamental idea of a one-piece seat shell moulded to fit the contours of the human body. After experiments with plywood and sheet aluminium in the 1940s produce unsatisfactory results, their search for alternative materials led them to glass-fibre reinforced polyester resin.
The Eameses recognised and fully exploited the advantages of the material: mouldability, rigidity, pleasant tactile qualities, suitability for industrial manufacturing methods. With this material, which was previously unknown in the furniture industry, they successfully developed the shell designs for serial production. After their debut at the 'Low-Cost Furniture Design' competition organised by the Museum of Modern Art in 1948, the Plastic Armchair (A-shell) and Plastic Side Chair (S-shell) were launched on the market in 1950 as the very first mass-produced plastic chairs in the history of furniture.The Eames Plastic Chairs also introduced a new furniture typology that has since become widespread: the multifunctional chair whose shell can be joined with a variety of different bases to serve diverse purposes. As early as 1950, Charles and Ray Eames presented a series of bases that enabled various sitting positions. An especially striking model is the so-called Eiffel Tower base – an intricate and graceful design made of steel wire that inimitably combines light, elegant forms with structural strength.
Today Vitra manufactures the comfortable seat shells of the Plastic Side Chairs and Plastic Armchairs in polypropylene, offering a multitude of bases, shell colours and upholstery options. This allows customers to specify countless different combinations and to use the chairs in the widest range of settings – from dining rooms, living rooms and home offices to office workspaces and conference rooms; from restaurants and cafés to break rooms and cafeterias; from waiting areas and auditoriums to terraces and gardens.In 2016 Vitra has added approximately 20 mm to the height of the Eames Plastic Chairs DSX, DAX, DSR, DAR, DSW and DAW, while also revising the seat geometry. These modifications, which are aesthetically almost imperceptible, increase the comfort of this classic chair design, especially in combination with contemporary tables.Seat shell (14)Other coloursHopsak (28)Other colours2)4)2)1)1)2)2)Seat shell: dyed-through polypropylene. All models (except RAR) are available with a seat cushion (screwed to the seat shell) or full upholstery.
The fully upholstered version has moulded polyurethane foam padding covered in Hopsak fabric, attached to the shell with a welted edge. Covers are available in all Hopsak fabric colours. Different shell and upholstery colours and various bases provide a multitude of possible combinations.Options: the Eames Plastic Chair is available as a visitor chair, dining chair, rocking chair, swivel chair or in stacking versions and with ganging brackets for row seating. Beam-mounted shells are suited for use in waiting areas.Q: Years ago, my mother stripped most of the old finish off my great-grandmother’s oak rocker. I would love to have it refinished. In addition, some of the glued joints are loose. Any suggestions on where to go and on how much refinishing to do? A: Because most of the old finish is gone, preserving the old finish isn’t really an option. Whatever finish remains should be removed so that you wind up with a new finish that’s uniform. To tighten the loose joints, the chair will need to be at least partially disassembled, using spreader clamps or a wooden or rubber mallet.
Then the existing glue needs to be scraped out, new glue applied and everything clamped tightly until the glue dries. Antique chairs are often held together with hide glue, which has fallen out of favor because it’s not as strong as modern PVA (or polyvinyl acetate) white and yellow woodworking glues, which create a bond that’s stronger than wood. But repairing a chair made with hide glue is a lot easier because it softens readily with heat or warm water and so is easy to remove. And when it fails, joints loosen but the wood itself does not rip apart, as it can with the more tenacious glues. ), matches the new glue to the type that he scrapes out of the joints. For most antique chairs, that means hide glue; for more modern ones, yellow glue. To repair broken parts other than joints, he often uses two-part epoxy. Depending on how much finish is left on your chair, he might use a chemical stripper, applied by brush, never by dipping. The finish would depend on what look you want. His guess is that the original finish was shellac or an early lacquer.
The modern equivalent would be sprayed-on lacquer, which would produce a durable, easy-to-care-for finish. But if you wanted an oil finish, he could do that instead. Hawksford estimated the total cost at $250 to $350. ) in Charlotte Hall, Md., estimated $350, which would include a golden oak stain to achieve the original look and several coats of varnish. This company picks up and delivers throughout the Washington area for an additional charge. Several other shops quoted separate prices for regluing and refinishing, which might be useful if you want to leave the tricky disassembly and regluing to a pro but tackle the finishing steps yourself. Corey Powers, owner of American Hardwoods (301-588-0363, americanhardwoodsinc.net) in Silver Spring, estimated the gluing would cost $200 and refinishing about $400. ) in Silver Spring, estimated $235 for gluing and $375-$400 for refinishing. When customers want to apply finish themselves, he recommends Minwax polyurethane in a satin finish so brushstrokes don’t show.
When he applies finish, he sprays lacquer. I have an aged concrete patio with cracks or veins where weeds are growing. How can I make the patio look decent without redoing the entire thing? Can I just clean out the weeds and then fill the veins with liquid spray and coat the whole patio with special paint for concrete surfaces? You can make the concrete look a lot better by pulling the weeds and scrubbing the concrete, using a power washer or just a scrub brush and hose. But if the weeds are thick and deep-rooted, “pulling the weeds” isn’t as easy as it sounds. A quick alternative is to give them a close haircut with a string trimmer. They will soon regrow, but if you use the patio only occasionally, it’s an easy and fast solution. For more of an upgrade, you’ll need to completely remove the weeds. The thin shaft of a dandelion weeder can be a big help. Use a wire brush to remove dirt and concrete chips, then thoroughly clean the concrete. If you have access to an air compressor, put on goggles and blow debris out of the cracks.
Fill cracks up to a half-inch wide and a quarter-inch deep with a product such as Sakrete Concrete Crack Filler ($10.56 per quart at Home Depot). If the cracks are deeper, fill them with sand to about a quarter-inch from the surface so the sealant gets a firm grip on the concrete on both sides but doesn’t have to flex downward as much if the crack continues to move. For wider cracks, you will need to chisel out channels that are wider on the bottom than the top so the patches don’t come out. Use a cement-and-sand mix (without gravel) such as Sakrete Sand Mix ($6.10 for 60 pounds at Home Depot). Brush the edges of the surrounding concrete with concrete bonding adhesive, which is similar to white glue and sold in jugs. Once the concrete is patched, you can coat it with a concrete resurfacing product such as Sakrete Flo-Coat Resurfacer ($19.27 for a 20-pound pail). Apply it with a squeegee. A concrete resurfacer is more durable on outdoor surfaces than paint. Have a problem in your home?