Hickory Shadow 25/32 in. Thick x 2 in. Wide x 84 in. Length Hardwood Baby Threshold MoldingThick x 2 1/8 in. Wide x 78 in. Vintage Hickory Natural 0.75 in. Length Hardwood Carpet Reducer/Baby Threshold Molding Maple/Birch Natural 3/4 in. Length Hardwood Carpet Reducer Molding Maple Cacao 0.875 in. Hickory Dusk 1/2 in. Red Oak Natural 0.75 in. Saddle Hickory 5/8 in. Dark Chocolate Maple 11/32 in. Thick x 1-15/16 in. Oak Saddle 2 in. Length Baby Threshold Molding Portabella Oak 25/32 in. Chesapeake Maple 5/8 in. Smokestack Maple 11/32 in. Maple Caramel 5/8 in. Amber Sienna 25/32 in. Brandy Oak 25/32 in. Prospect Maple 3/4 in. Multi Color Coordinating 3/4 in. Thick x 2-1/8 in. Length Hardwood Threshold Molding Silvermist Oak 11/32 in. Wide x 78 in. length Hickory T-Molding Harvest Hickory 25/32 in. Vermont Syrup Hickory 5/8 in. Sunset Sand 5/8 in. Oak Door Threshold (L)915mm (W)50mm (T)7mm Check stock in store
45 day returns policy. Read our returns policy [This is a block of tabs..] This oak door threshold from B&Q will look great as a decorative and practical join between floor surfaces, adding the perfect finishing touch to any room in your home. Suitable for shelving, bookcases, wardrobes, cabinets, occasional tables, bespoke furniture and kitchen units. Guarantee - 1 year Made using responsibly sourced, Forest Friendly timber Technical specification of Oak Door Threshold (L)915mm (W)50mm (T)7mm Please note that this item has additional safety or regulatory datasheets available. The product may have possible health and safety hazards covered in these documents. Refer to the container for full information and always follow the instructions. How to decorate your ceiling The ceiling is often a forgotten part of a decorating project, but a well decorated ceiling can enhance the overall style of a room. If you neglect this area, your ceiling will look drab or stained in comparison.
Learn about the different finishes for your ceiling and build this into your decorating vision. How to hang an internal door How to fit skirting-boards Choose a convenient delivery date on 1000s of products 45 day returns policy Arrange collection or return to store. - 0333 014 3357 Excludes Large and Bulk delivery 10 Lite Oak Veneer Glazed Internal Door, (H)1981mm 15 Lite Knotty Pine Glazed Internal Door, (H)1981mm 10 Lite Oak Veneer Glazed Internal Folding Door, Flush Oak Veneer Internal Unglazed Door, (H)2040mm (W)726mm Colour Matched Threshold Bars Shop by Pack Coverage Shop by Colour Family Wickes Venezia/ Sevilla Oak Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Sonora Light Chestnut Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Rockland Hickory Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes San Diego Oak Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Formosa Antique Chestnut Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes African Walnut Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm
Wickes Madera Light Hickory Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Aspen Oak Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Bergen Oak Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Aspiran Oak Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Salinas/ Sagano Oak Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Solid Oak Threshold Bar 900mm Wickes Fiorentino Chestnut Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Shimla/Albero/Salerno Oak Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm Wickes Serina Oak Threshold Bar & Reducer 900mm How can I get this black stain out of this oak veneer top? It is an antique piece so there is no telling what it is or how long it's been there. I have washed it with lacquer thinner and steel wool. I then sanded it as much as I dared and I fear it is all the way through. What actually happens is the tannins in the oak react with the water and chemically change the wood. I have never (35+ years) found an answer and have simply accepted the fact that sometimes you cannot change the laws of chemistry.
Bleach doesn't work, you can't sand it out and there are just times when you have to go to the client and say "I can't do it, mortifying as it may be." Mostly folks get it. You could use art pencils to cover it. It takes a little practice and I find it works best if I blend it out a long way, sometimes over the whole top. I'd be surprised if oxalic acid didn't get most of the stain out. Just be sure to rinse well and wear a dusk mask when sanding and don't sand any more than necessary or you will bring the stain back up. I have used both with good results. For a stain such as yours, either method will require a few applications to remove the stain to your liking. One note: 2 part bleach may bring the treated area to a lighter color than the wood itself, which will require you to tone the area up to the same color. I assume the oxalic acid worked for you. Just want to suggest not to use steel wool and water on raw wood, especially white oak. Any little shreds of wet steel wool on the white oak will make little black spots (like distressing) and you will have to use oxalic acid again.
Nylon scrubbing pads (ScotchBrite) would be appropriate. I have not tried oxalic acid yet because I wanted to wait a little so I could read all postings. I will try tomorrow if I can find any on a Sunday. Thanks for the tip about the steel wool and water. It makes perfect sense but it would not have occurred to me if you had not mentioned it. How should I refinish the top to as closely as possible recreate the finish that was applied to the furniture in 1928? The piece shown in the photo is just the nightstand to a five piece bedroom suite that I am restoring. I can't really tell if it is lacquer or varnish. My inclination is to finish the top with pre-cat lacquer followed by pumice and rottenstone rubs. The rest of the piece is in better condition and I don't want to alter the original finish any more than I have to and still make it look immaculate. What do professional restorers do in a case like this? One guy on an antiques forum said to use tung oil. I would try the oxalic acid.
It will likely lighten it. Then if the top needs to match the rest of the piece, I would use the Mohawk Blendal sticks to color the dark area. Test for shellac by swabbing a little denatured alcohol on an obscure part of the existing finish. If it gets tacky in a few seconds, shellac. The photo looks like a film finish of some sort has been applied. I'd steer clear of the tung oil; "antiques" people mention it almost by reflex. Clean the parts you don't want to alter with mineral spirits or VM&P and short bristle brushes (get the whitish buildup out of the carving). Rag the slop before it dries. Touch in bare spots, rubs, etc. Use one of the round shoe brushes to push a dark colored paste wax into the crevices and a cheese cloth pad to wax the flats. Burnish with a shoe buffing brush and rags. Oxalic acid works wonders on stains just like the one in your picture. I would mix up a saturated solution of oxalic acid in very hot water and apply it to the raw wood with a cheapo toss out brush.
The oxalic acid will work even better if you can place the piece you're bleaching in direct sunlight. Oxalic acid won't penetrate a finish, so be sure the piece you're bleaching is absolutely free of any finish. You can apply another coat of the oxalic acid right over the dried crystals if needed. Once you're happy with the results, wash off the crystals with hot water and let the piece you're bleaching dry. As far as sanding goes, the veneers of yesteryear are about twice as thick as the veneers of today, so you may be able to sand the surface a bit more aggressively than you would normally sand a veneer. 150 is a good grit to start with. Once you've bleached and sanded, if you find the stain beyond touching up, re-veneering is another option you could consider. Would you like to add information to this article?Interested in writing or submitting an article?Have a question about this article?Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below? Would you like to add information to this article?
If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to review our Forum Guidelines. Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map. When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses. Return to beginning of article. Refer a Friend || This Important Information || Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page. Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.