New barn door hardware > A leader in door construction for decades, Daiek Door Systems (Daiek Products) has been an innovator in the industry. We hand craft doors at our facility in Troy, Michigan. Our door systems are manufactured in Michigan with raw materials from the USA. Our efficient processes and endless pursuit of the responsible use of nature’s resources minimizes our impact on the environment. Daiek Door Systems are hand crafted of high quality materials to exacting specifications. The end result is a high performance, high value product, built for years of perfect service in residential and commercial applications. While we create wide range of standard size mirror doors, shower doors, metal doors and glass doors, oversize and custom sizes can be accommodated in most of our door systems. Daiek distributes Fleurco shower door systems, plus its Luna line of LED-lighted mirrors and Aria bathtubs. A complete line of high-quality interior barn door hardware is another new addition to our product line.
Daiek’s new line of Barn Door Hardware is premium quality and complete with all the special fasteners needed for installation. Extra-heavy-duty tracks and rollers provide an effortless glide for heavy doors. Beautiful handles look and feel great. Our Series 9 Overlay Swing Door is now even better! The new edge mount handle offers a sleek and stylish upgrade and has the remarkable durability that all Daiek Door Systems products are known for. Wyatt has been a part of the Daiek Products team since May 2010. And now he’s featured on the cover of our new mirror door literature. Daiek’s signature door for more than 40 years is the Series 1 Frameless Mirror Bifold. Featuring a full metal backing of 24 gauge cold rolled steel door panels bonded to 1/8″ clear mirror, this door utilizes a heavy duty aluminum … Which Shower Door Is Right for Your Bathroom?Why doesn't Angie's List rate attorneys?Landscaping: What do your neighbors do that drives you crazy?How much does it cost to be a member here?
How much does it typically cost to paint a 2100 square foot house on the exterior? That's very difficult to answer without seeing the house. As one poster said, the prep is the most important part. On newer homes that don't have a lot of peeling paint, the prep can be very minimal even as low as a couple or a few hundred dollars for the prep labor. On a 100 year old home with 12 coats of peeling paint on it, then the prep costs can be very high and can easily exceed 50% of the job's labor cost.A 2100 sq ft two story home could easily cost $1000 just for the labor to prep for the paint job. That number could climb too. Throw in lots of caullking or window glazing, and you could be talking a couple or a few hundred dollars more for labor. Painting that home with one coat of paint and a different color on the trim could run roughly $1000 or more just for labor. Add a second coat and that could cost close to another $1000 for labor. For paint, you may need 20 gallons of paint. You can pay from $30-$70 for a gallon of good quality exterior paint.
The manufacturer of the paint should be specified in any painting contract. Otherwise, the contractor could bid at a Sherwin-Williams $60 per gallon paint and then paint the house with $35 Valspar and pocket the difference. $25 dollars per gallon times 20 gallons? That's a pretty penny too. That was the long answer to your question. The short answer is $2000 to $4000 and up, depending upon the amount of prep, the number of coats, the amount of trim, and the paint used. Bifold doors are much like any doors, only connected into pairs with hinges and hung on a track. What makes them look good and work well are a solid, heavy construction and sturdy and carefully adjusted hardware. The heft of the doors is what keeps them from shuddering when you open them. So it's best to look for solid–core or solid–wood doors, which will feel more substantial than hollow–core doors. (Solid doors are also easier to trim if any part of your door opening is out of square.) Then, in order to handle the weight of these heavier doors, you'll need a track that includes a wheeled mechanism, which allows the doors to glide smoothly rather than shimmy along the track.
The most difficult—and sometimes most frustrating—part of the installation is attaching and adjusting all the hardware. The track, the pivots, the hinges all have to be assembled just so, and it's worth taking the time to double–check every measurement and position to be sure each piece is in the right place and facing the right way. Finish or paint the doors before starting. Label the doors to show the order they'll be installed and which sides face out. Take a jamb side door and mark its inner edge 11 inches from the bottom, 7 inches from the top, and centered between the two. Place the door on edge with the marks facing up. Take the lower half of a hinge and align its bottom with the bottom mark, its knuckles facing back and flush to the edge. Use a self?centering bit to drill pilot holes through the hinge holes. Screw on the hinge plate. Attach the top and middle hinges, on their marks. Place the leading (inner) door on edge, facing back-to-back with the first door.
Align the doors evenly against a square, then put the hinges together. Screw the hinge plates to the leading door. Repeat on the second pair of doors. Attach the track hardware Fasten the pivot plates (the pins that fit into the track and the floor bracket), and the locking arms (the hooks that slide along the track) to the top and bottom of each set of doors. The pivot plates go on the tops and bottoms of the jamb–side doors, and the locking arm on the tops of the leading doors. Each kit requires its hardware to be uniquely positioned, so check the diagrams that come with yours for exact measurements and placements. These will tell you, for example, not only how far a pivot plate should be from the door edges around it but also where its pin should be in relation to the door's edges. Adhering to all the given dimensions ensures that no piece goes on backward. Use a hacksaw to cut the track to length to fit the closet opening. Slide the hanging hardware into the track—the small stops in the center, then around them the track hangers with wheels, and finally the pivot socket on the outside.
Attach the track to the door header with the screws provided. Position the track 1 inch in from the front edge of the header. This will give you enough room to hide the track with trim without limiting the door action. Tip:Don't tighten the hardware onto the track. It will be easier to hang the doors later if the pieces are loose. Position the floor bracket Use the measurements supplied by the manufacturer to position the floor bracket next to the door jamb. Hang a plumb bob from the center of the track above the floor bracket to align the pin hole in the bracket front to back. This will ensure that the doors are plumb when installed. Outline the bracket in pencil to mark its exact location. Screw the bracket in place, then remove the screws and set the bracket and screws aside. Bring the doors to the track and lift the jamb side to hook the pin of the top pivot plate into the pivot socket. Make sure the pin is all the way in, then push the lever on the side of the socket to lock it in place.
Slot the pin from the track hanger into the locking arm on the leading door. Twist the arm to lock it into place. With the doors closed, swing them forward enough to catch the floor bracket in the bottom pivot pin. Attach the floor bracket Swing the doors back into place and align the floor bracket with the pencil marks. Use a flexible bit extender to screw down the bracket. Hang the other set of doors. Close both sets and adjust them along the track to even up the reveal around them. Then, using the wrench provided with the hardware, tighten the pivot sockets on the ends of the track and the small stops in the center. Tip: Ask a helper to give you a hand in lifting and holding the doors, which can be unwieldy. Attach the door aligner From inside the closet and with the doors closed, mount the door aligners between the two leading doors, 6 inches up from the floor. The aligners catch when the doors are closed, keeping the door faces flush with each other.