Your garage door opener is programmed with self-diagnostic capabilities which enable you to count the number of flashes and help identify your potential problem. This will give you a breakdown of the Liftmaster, Chamberlain, and Sears A/C model openers. These three brands make up the 70% types of openers that are sold in the country and are all diagnosed the same way. *Click here if you would like to see the diagnostic chart breakdown for Linear or Genie garage door openers. Diagnostic Chart, Symptoms, and Solutions: One flash indicates that your safety sensor wire may be open, broken or disconnected. flashes twice, then your sensor wire is either shorted or the black and white wires could be reversed. In both cases, your safety eyes will not glow steadily. You should inspect the wiring for any staples orTo test if your wires are shortened, you must detach the wires and reattach the sending eye and receiving eye separately to the opener to see which wire does not light.
If the sensors are aligned and the lights glow, then the wires need replacement. If the lights do not glow, then the safety sensors need Three flashes are connected with the door control or wire being shorted. Check the door control wires for staples in it just as you did for the safety sensors wires. You can also disconnect the door control wires andThe door control needs to be replaced if the opener activates once the wires touch. However, if the opener does not activate, then short across the red and white wires with a jumper wire. have done this and the opener now works, then it symbolizes the door control wires needing replacement. Four flashes is the most common reason your opener lights may be flashing is because of your sensor eyesIf an object has misaligned your sensor eyes then it breaks the electronic beam preventing the garage door to close properly. The door will stop and reverse back upwards. Five flashes indicate that your motor may be overheated or there may be a RPM (revolutions per minute) sensor
Unplug your unit to reset it. If it continues to flash, then your RPM sensor must be replaced. If the motor unit still does not operate at all, then it has overheated and the logic board must be replaced. Six flashes designate a motor circuit failure. The motor unit completely does not work so the receiver logic board must be replaced. Another reason your electronic beam can be broken is by an obstruction in the way of the lights. can be your sensor eyes detecting your foot leaving your door too soon, a broom or such blocking the path, or even something as simple as dust or a cobweb build up on the eyes. These are simple fixes by removing the objects or taking a cloth and dusting off the dirt. If these solutions seem too complex or do not work feel free to contact a certified technician. If you are looking for a garage door company that specializes in Garage Doors, Garage Door Repair, or Garage Door Openers, or are just looking for more information, please visit our website at precisiondoor.net.
Remember, "We Fix Garage Doors Right"™.What does the flashing LED next to the learn button mean? Your garage door opener is programmed with self-diagnostic capabilities. The diagnostic LED next to the learn button will flash a number of times, then pause before repeating, signifying it has found a potential issue. The Diagnostic Chart is below. 1 or 2 Flashes - One or both of the LEDs on the safety reversing sensors do not glow steadily. One flash means there is a broken or disconnected wire to a safety reversing sensor. Two flashes means a wire to a sensor is shorted out or a black/white wire is reversed. Inspect the sensor wires for a short (staple in a wire), incorrect wiring polarity (black/white wires reversed), broken or disconnected wires; replace or reattach as needed. 3 Flashes - The LED is not lit on the door control. Inspect the door control wires for a short (staple in wire), and replace as needed. Disconnect wires at the door control, then touch the wires together.
If the garage door opener activates, replace the door control. If the garage door opener does not activate, disconnect door control wires from the motor unit. Momentarily short across the red and white terminals with jumper wire. If the garage door opener activates, replace the door control wires. 4 Flashes - The safety reversing sensor sending LED glows steadily, and the receiving light is dim or flashing. The safety reversing sensors are slightly misaligned. Loosen the wing nut on the receiving sensor, clean the lens, realign the sensor until it glows steadily, then tighten the wing nut and secure the brackets. Verify the door track is firmly secured to the wall and does not move. 5 Flashes - This is a miscellaneous code. Additional symptoms will help to identify the issue. If the opener is not moving at all and you hear a short hum, look for a physical obstruction and remove it, or check if the trolley is stuck on the stop bolt. See How do I get the trolley off the stop bolt?.
If the door is moving more than 6-8 inches it is likely that a force adjustment is needed. See Adjust the travel and force limits or Program the travel and force limits. If the garage door opener does not operate, the motor could be overheated. Wait 30 minutes and retry. If the garage door opener still does not operate it may be the logic board or a short in the door control wires. See How to troubleshoot a Door Control Panel 6 Flashes - Motor Circuit Failure. Replace the receiver logic board. What do the flashing UP and DOWN arrows mean? Answers others found helpful Why do the lights on my garage door opener flash and my door will not close? How to troubleshoot a door control panel How do I get the trolley off the stop bolt or stop tab? How to test or troubleshoot the safety reversing sensors How to align safety reversing sensors When I push my inside of garage button for the door to close, the door attempts to go down, motor light flashes and door goes back up again.
I had to keep holding the wall button for the door to actually go down and close. The garage door will automatically reverse if it encounters too much resistance or if the sensor beam is interrupted. To check for resistance, start with the door closed and pull the red handle. Then open and close the door. The movement should be fluid with no tough spots. If you encounter difficult spots, you likely have a bent track or a broken wheel. If the door opens with the opener fine, but reverses almost immediately when you try to close it, then you likely have a problem with your sensor alignment. One sensor should have a light on all the time. This is the transmitter. The other, your receiver, should light up when it has an unobstructed view of the invisible light beam the transmitter sends. It's easy to bump a sensor and move it out of alignment. Just bend it back in to position. Use the light on the receiver to help you so that you don't have to try and close the door to check your adjustments.
I'd like to add to the thread my experience/observation: same situation - won't close unless you hold the inside button, 10 flashes as the error. Both of my sensors "appeared" to be working. That is, the amber emitter would cause the green receiver to light when I had them aligned, and the green receiver would go out if I blocked the beam, so as I said, it "appeared" to be working. The cause was corrosion on the receiver wires. Both wires were cut by a critter a few years ago. I spliced them back but moisture and weather resulted in just enough resistance on the line to provide inconsistent feedback and trigger the safety override. I cut out the bad copper and soldered a new splice which I sealed with liquid tape and all is well again. In summary, If both sensors are lit and you get response from blocking the beam, check the green receiver wiring (the emitter would not have the same issue). With a multimeter you could look for voltage fluctuation or resistance, or just visually inspect for breaks in the line insulation and black or green copper wiring.
It's much more likely the wire than the sensor so why waste the money? I had this issue last week. The lights on the sensor were fine. The issue was finally traced to loose connections at the sensors. Disconnected the sensors, re-stripped the wires and reconnected them. Door closes fine now. I think the sensors were working fine until the garage door starts moving, when the electrical supply to the sensors were getting interrupted due to faulty wiring. Besides @longneck's excellent points, if the garage door or opener is a new installation and has not worked before, it could be that the opener's internal "tension sensor" is not correctly set. If the door can be reasonably easily opened and closed by hand, but the opener balks at closing the door, the tension setting probably needs to be increased. See the installation manual for details how to adjust it. Usually it is a nut inside the unit, or sometimes a thumbwheel. 3 most common problems with garage doors that won’t close are:
The sensor is either blocked by an object The sensor caught some dirt. The sensor is not aligned What to do when your garage door won't close When nothing here works...determine what is spoofing the auto reverse. I have an insulated door. Part of the sheeting over the insulation are peeling away due to excess heat (and kids pickng at it). The flap of sheeting on the lower most panel was triggering he reverse when the door got to within an inch or two from closing. Trimmed the flap of sheeting back and presto...worked every time. Sensor lights were out (there is a green and red LED light on each sensor side). I moved an extension ladder that must have "jiggled" the wires at the ceiling corner that powers the sensors. I went up and " re-jiggled" the wires at ceiling and LED lights came on. Garage door now shuts normally. Try this if all else fails as in my case. Both of my sensors were working (green receiver goes out only if beam blocked). I noticed one light bulb blinked when closing door.