Wickes – Improving British Homes Since 1972It all began for Wickes when an American company called Wickes Corporation joined forces with British builders’ merchant, Sankeys, to open the first UK Wickes store. Over the following decades, Wickes experienced a few major milestones including their successful listing on the London Stock Exchange and a couple of acquisitions; the latest one being current owner Travis Perkins. Wickes also tried their hand at international expansion but decided to focus exclusively on their UK operations to give the best possible service to the British public.The Wickes Online ShopNow with more than 220 stores across the UK, Wickes has a strong presence across the country and is a place for DIY enthusiasts to compare product ranges and prices against competitors like B&Q. The online store at www.wickes.co.uk sells all the same core DIY supplies, tools, and kitchen and bathroom installations as their brick and mortar stores. Speaking of which, head to the store locater page and select your town or enter your postcode to find out where your nearest Wickes store is.
Top categories in the orientation menu of the online shop include:Other top categories are pretty much self-explanatory like Flooring, Tiles, Doors, and Paint.And here’s a list of the top brands you’ll find in the online shop:Simply head to the offers page if you want to discover the latest discounted products, multi-buy offers, and clearance stock. Lots of people would like to know when’s the best time to buy a new kitchen or bathroom from Wickes and holding off till Easter or Christmas sales events are a good idea but Wickes also runs monthly promotions so you might not have to wait.There’s no need to register for membership on wickes.co.uk to place an order, although you’ll get the option to do so during the checkout process. If you prefer, you can simply enter your e-mail address for the weekly newsletter and find out about the latest offers and deals. Or enter your contact info on the catalogue page so you can receive a printed copy and browse through the wider range of products at home.
If you see something you like but it costs more at Wickes than another store, let them know and they will match the better price. And if you spot items advertised elsewhere for cheaper, let the team at Wickes know about it within 7 days of your delivery and Wickes will refund the difference.What’s more, Wickes Black Friday sales event at the end ov November is a fantastic time for bargain hunters to grab online-only deals.Wickes is happy to accept payments made by MasterCard and Visa credit and debit cards (this includes Visa Electron), plus Delta and Maestro debit cards. You’ll have to pay in store if you want to pay using an American Express credit card.Apart from bulky products, Wickes offers standard next business day delivery, which is free if your total order comes to at least £50 and if you order before 17:00 Monday to Thursday. Pay an extra £5 and you can get items delivered on Saturday or request a morning arrival. Bulky items like building supplies may still qualify for next business day delivery as long as they are in stock, whereas big and bulky products can take up to 7 days to get to their destination.
If you’re quick enough, you are free to cancel an order before it gets dispatched. And if you receive the wrong items or a defective product, or even if you decide you no longer want to keep the items you purchased, you can request to return them to Wickes for a full refund as long as you do so within 30 days and the items are in full resalable condition. To return an item, simply follow these steps:Of course, you can bypass these steps if you are able to head down to your nearest Wickes store and ask for a refund at the service counter.You can find profiles of the British DIY specialist on these social media pages:Part support and part blog, the Help & Advice section of the Wickes store is a handy, one stop reference page for answering all of your support queries as well as getting inspiration for your next DIY job. There are product reviews, how to guides, educational videos from the experts, and legal information regarding home and garden improvement projects. If you check out the page at, you’ll be able to find and download inspirational and educational guides in high resolution detail.
If the information in the Help & Advice section still doesn’t satisfy your query, you can get in touch with the Wickes customer service team by submitting the online enquiry form. If you’d prefer to e-mail from your personal e-mail client, send your question to . Alternative contact methods include popping into a nearby store, phoning customer support on 0330 1234123 (hours are Monday to Friday 8:00 to 20:00, Saturday 8:30 to 17:30, and Sunday 10:00 to 16:00), or inquiring in writing by post:Wickes Customer ServicesRhosili RoadBrackmillsNorthampton, NN4 7JEUnited KingdomIf you would like to stay updated on all the best deals for products available from wickes.co.uk, bookmark and regularly check the special Wickes merchant page on HotUKDeals.Tips on this page cover; The basics of domestic door hanging are the same for almost every type of door - whether it’s hardwood or softwood, ply flush, moulded or paneled and either a normal or fire check door. Unless you have a 'door set' where the door is pre-hung in the frame when it arrives on site then ideally the doors are hung before the architraves and door stops are fitted.
It's also important that when the door lining is installed it is plumb, in wind and a bit wider than the doors width. Unfortunately, ill fitting frames are far more common than correctly installed frames. If you hang the door before fitting the architraves first then once in the frame can be wedged toward the door for a perfect gap/fit. This is the easiest and quickest way to ensure perfect margins between the door and frame. It's not always possible though as sometimes I am re-hanging or replacing existing doors in a clients home, not working in a new build house so the architraves are already fitted. In this instance, the door needs to be scribed and fitted to the already finished frame as neatly as possible. Obviously the first thing I do before I start hanging doors is measure all the openings and make a list of the door size/s I need. Doors are available in both metric (mm) and imperial (ins) sizes. Imperial doors are 78” high (6ft 6”) and come in various widths, 24”, 27”, 30”, 33” (sometimes referred to as 2’, 2’3”, 2’ 6”, or 2ft 9 inches).
Metric doors are taller, 2040mm. And are available 525, 626, 726, 826 or 926mm wide. Bear in mind when measuring them the heights may have been reduced due to floor coverings etc. Also, in old Victorian houses for example doors are often way out of square, miles out of wind and need lots of fitting so the size might not be immediately obvious! I've come across openings that are 30" wide at the top, 28" at the bottom and the head is 3/4" out of level, and the floor was no better! Once you've got your doors on site it's really important to store them flat! Otherwise they can warp or twist which will cause problems when you come to hang them Internal doors are available in several different styles and manufactured from several different materials, to suit every budget. For example solid or moulded. Moulded doors have a honeycomb cardboard middle covered in a plain or patterned layer and are lightweight and low cost. Solid doors are exactly that and can be bought with glazed panels, solid panels (2,3,4,6 or 8)and in many different types of timber both softwood and hardwood.
have got a massive range of doors and will deliver to site or your home if you don't have a good van or trailer you could collect them in yourself. To hold a door in position while you work on it you should spend 3-4 minutes making a saddle, block and wedge. It's quick and easy to make and also keeps the doors edge off the floor while you plane, chop and chisel it. Once the door sizes are determined I then decide on the ironmongery I’ll use. There are loads of ironmongery options to choose from and consider when hanging new doors, apart from hinges there's locks, latches, thumb-turns, barrel bolts, hanging hooks and if it's a front door you've also got spy holes, door knocks/knockers and letter plates to consider. If the door I’m hanging is a lightweight moulded or ply flush door I only use two good quality 75mm hinges. Unless it’s a bathroom, airing cupboard or another door to an area that’s subject to high humidity/temperature changes where I'll use a third hinge in the middle as well to help prevent the door warping.
I use 3 x 75mm hinges when hanging doors made of solid pine or another softwood. If the doors I’m hanging are hardwood like Oak three high quality 75mm or 100mm hinges are usually sufficient depending on the thickness/weight. The latch is the part that the handles control and that locates to hold the door closed. The keep is the striking plate component of the latch that chopped into the frame. There are lots of different options to consider before choosing which size latch will be best all covered on the mortice latch page. When a pair of doors are hung, a flush bolt is fitted to the slave door to keep it closed, and hold it firmly in place so the main door has something firm to close up against. When fire check door hanging 3x100mm fire rated hinges> are a minimum requirement to comply with building regulations, sometimes 4 are needed when hanging doors that are particularly heavy. Always check with your local building inspector if you are unsure of the number/type of hinges needed.
Intumescent fire and/or smoke seals will need to be fitted with a router and sometimes automatic door closers too. Because of all the extra work associated with fire doors and how much heavier they are to lift I charge over twice as much as I would for a normal internal door. The regulations change quite often so double check with your local building control to make sure what you plan to do will comply with any relevant loft conversion building regulations. At the time of writing when a loft conversion is installed just like with a townhouse all the internal doors in the house from the hall to habitable rooms need to be upgraded to FD30 fire doors with intumescent strips. This is to ensure that the fire can be contained and there is a 30 minute protected means of escape from the loft in the event of a fire (provided the door is shut..). Habitable rooms include kitchen, bedrooms, study, dining room etc. not cloakrooms, cupboards or bathrooms, although the airing cupboard may need to be changed depending on the inspector.
Doors linking a kitchen to a dining room for example don't need to be changed as they are not off the hallway. In addition, any glazing such as borrowed lights (glass panels above doors) also need to be either replaced with fire rated glass or covered with plasterboard and sealed with an intumescent mastic (cheapest option). When hanging doors for a cupboard it's not always necessary to use hinges that need to be chopped into the door and lining. Unless I'm hanging doors that are solid and heavy, when hanging normal hollow core flush/paneled cupboard doors I use flush hinges. Flush hinges are cheaper and much easier to use as they can be screwed straight on, one part of the hinge closes inside the other. I always put a leading edge on the hinge side of the door before I screw the flush hinges on and make sure the screw heads are small enough to fit inside the countersunk holes in the hinge. This prevents the door from 'binding' and trying to spring open on its own when you close it.