Ghostbusters 30ThGhostbusters Ecto 1Lego EctoOfficial GhostbustersOfficial LegoLego GhostbusterGhostbusterstm EctoReveals GhostbustersGhostbusters AwesomeForwardThe Ghostbusters are back! As Lego characters - but where's Slimer?Lego Death Star Docking Bay 327 Hanger MOC for minifig scale UCS Falcon. The goal was to build a high quality set while keeping part count (i.e. cost) down as much as possible.Acknowledgements:- I used photos from Dave's awesome scratch built Docking Bay 327 as inspiration for my design. His set has 10.5k parts with a working elevator. I wanted to keep the cost down, so my version has a static elevator and unfinished back wall from behind with a total of 7,780 parts. Pictures of Dave's set can be found at his MOC Page.- 3D Renderings were done using LDD2POVRay- UCS Falcon LDD model used for test renderings is by Dan Jansen and available for download at Eurobricks - Parts list was created using LDD ManagerModel Files:- The LDD model files for both versions of the Lego DB327 (Gate inside radius with arch or slopes) with Brick Link parts lists is available for downloadNote
: The sloped version parts list is loaded into Rebrickable as default. The model file only includes the Docking Bay 327 and portable scaffold.I made a few minor substitutions for parts that were not in LDD (i.e. antenna on roof of the support building)Higher ResolutionFinished Docking Bay 327. I made some small changes to the elevator in later pictures:Higher ResolutionFinished Docking Bay 327 with the FalconHigher ResolutionFinished Docking Bay 327 with the Falcon:Higher ResolutionHigher Resolution"Blast the door kid!":Higher Resolution Help Guide - Buying LEGO Parts Already have some of the parts? Build this MOC page to only show the parts Create an account to change the default filters used. Add Parts to BrickOwl Wishlist Add Parts to BrickLink Wanted List View Building Instructions (PDF - Computer Images) This MOC also has a LEGO Digital Designer file available: Image Detail: tree trunk with roots, grass and weeds. Image Detail: burned out window
Image Detail: stairway to porch Abandoned houses offer unique opportunities from a visual point of view. The deterioration transforms materials. Texture on top of texture. New patterns overtaking old ones. This textural aspect to deterioration and the patterns that it creates can be rich and fascinating to look at. I also find that the experience of seeing a deteriorated house (or any familiar object) interesting. When looking at the image we see a dual image of the house – one as it is, and one as it was. You see a huge hole in the side of the house not just as a hole, but also as an interruption of the known. And so the mind seeks to recreate the known. We fill in the holes. Our eyes follow the angle of the broken awning to a point, now destroyed, and we can feel the mass that was of the front 3rd floor. The same with the porch covering. This visual duality – the mind flipping between destruction and pre-destruction – is magic. It's entertaining and engaging. Many ask me how I go about planning and building these pieces.
Sadly, I tend to be a 'messy' planner, so I do not make any blueprints or basic construction drawings. Rather I just get to work. I start by researching photos I find online. Generally, I find a house feel I would like to recreate. I also look for others that have specific moments of deterioration that I find interesting. In this case, I also researched houses that have been smashed by fallen trees. Next, I take a look at other moc's to see if there are any special techniques I can use based on the subject matter. Now for the size. I look on the buildings for objects that I would like to recreate with a piece. In this case, the scale was determined by the size of the bricks. One real life brick is almost the same size as a 1 x 2 tile – the 1 x 2 tile being a little bigger, but not by much. From here, I count out the bricks on the building to determine width and height and use rudimentary measuring tools, like a pencil or thumb held up to gauge relative proportions between the real thing and my work.
In this way, I can make sure all is on track. I've tried plotting everything out on paper and using measurements, but inevitably I mess up somewhere along the line with the numbers and then have to start over again. Thus, I tend to just 'wing it'. In this series, I am most interested in textures and the effect of layering textures over each other. To this end, the absence of color helps the viewer to focus on just this. Lego colors tend to be pretty harsh and unrealistic for my tastes, so I stick to black/white and grays. Without color, we dive right into form, which is where I want you to be. The tree was the most difficult texture to determine. I had thought by reversing the bricks – to show backs – worked best (you can see this in my previous post with the detail of the tree trunk). But very late into the process, a friend had advised me that it didn't look as real as everything else. Spend a week rebuilding the tree and perhaps money for more bricks or let well enough be.
In the end, I found that hinge cylinders worked well to describe bark texture. Strung together, they conform to all sorts of organic configurations. Additionally, they could be skinned onto the trees that I had already built so I would not have to rebuild or spend much more money. It's not perfect, and I hope to try something similar but different in future, but for now, seemed pretty effective. The branches were created with ridged 3mm hose and a variety of droid arms as well as other technic connectors to give the appearance of branches. Cylinder hinges were used to give the tree texture and a more organic form than bricks were offering me. I also had difficulty creating the burned out area coming from the mid floor's window. Lego does not provide a good variety of grays to blend, so I ended up using some trans black tiles to help smooth out the difference. A lever (control stick) on left used for grass and droid arm used for weeds and branches. Thousands of each of these were used in the landscape of this piece.
From the start, the ground texture was of primary importance. I had wanted to create a dense textural experience here that would dazzle and sparkle. I ended up using levers for grass and droid arms for branches and weeds. There are thousands of each to hopefully capture the unevenness of an unattended yard. This wild growth also allowed for some nice irregularity to break free of the mass of the base and into the background void. In this way, they soften the piece a bit. The bushes on the left and right of the foreground also were much fun to make. Very quick (perhaps 30 minutes each) and effective. Each one of the four bushes must have a hundred or more droid arms! The hardest technical aspect to the piece was the roof. In particular dealing with the seams where each of the four sides meet. For the photo, it is fine enough as the shot does not show the imperfections of the joints. Still, it would be nice to understand how to better manage it. In addition to 2 x 2 tiles, I used diver flippers as a second shingle type.