LEGO® → System → Creator → Expert 10247 << 10248 >> 10250 $89.99 €89.99 £69.99 $129.99 10248 Ferrari F40 is a 1,158 piece Creator set released in July 2015, retailing for $89.99 in the US. It mainly features the Ferrari F40. The F40 is highly detailed, with flip-up lights, a V8 engine with twin turbochargers and many other features. Unlike many other larger scale vehicles, the F40 comes with a front windshield. The engine is able to be completely removed from the main vehicle. The hood, the rear section, and doors are all able to be opened.Do not modify it. Get up close to one of the world’s greatest supercars—the Ferrari F40! This awesome LEGO® Creator Expert replica of the iconic sports car with its sleek aerodynamic lines, distinctive rear spoiler and racing-red bodywork is packed with authentic brick-built details, including pop-up headlights, side air intakes and a vented rear hatch that opens to reveal a twin-turbocharged, 90-degree V8 engine!
Open the doors and you’ll discover complete authenticity, right down to the crafted cabled door handles, steering wheel with Ferrari logo and 2 red racing seats, while under the hood you’ll find a luggage compartment and tools. A special windscreen element with printed A-pillars and custom-made, molded rim inserts with sturdy, road-gripping tires add the final touches to this intricately designed model, a must-have for all Ferrari fans! Features an array of brick-built details, including a hinged, vented rear hatch, detailed twin-turbocharged, 90 degree V8 engine with quick release function, opening doors and hood with luggage compartment and tools, pop-up headlights, cabled door handles, windscreen element with printed A-pillars, steering wheel with Ferrari logo, 2 red racing seats and custom-made, molded rim inserts Build your very own Ferrari F40! Checkout the awesome brick-built details! Lift the vented rear hatch to reveal the detailed V8 engine Open the doors to access the detailed, authentic interior
Take this iconic sports car for a spin! Ferrari F40 measures over 3” (8cm) high, 10” (27cm) long and 5” (14cm) wide Ad blocker interference detected! Wikia is a free-to-use site that makes money from advertising. We have a modified experience for viewers using ad blockers Wikia is not accessible if you’ve made further modifications. Remove the custom ad blocker rule(s) and the page will load as expected.Compare high quality hino v8 diesel engine with best quality and low price Jining Yikang Machinery Co., Ltd. US $15000.0-16000.0 1 PiecePage Not Found (404) Sorry, what you're looking for can't be found! The page might have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavaible. Or it probably just doesn't exist.I am finally succeeded to make my variant of the LPEpower 3 cylinder inline LEGO Pneumatic Engine, a Scoctch yoke engine. Rebuilding the engine was very difficult. Many people try to build LPE's and they share their contributions in forums like Nicjasno.
To let an engine run, is very difficult, but to let it run fast, by modifying the cylinders and switches, is even more difficult. , offer LPE's for sale in their store. They build incredible constructions, like automatic gearboxes and 2, 3 and 4 inline and v4, v6 and v8 custum engines. I am now convinced that the amount of money they ask for their engines is not much (in fact very little!) in relation to the effort it takes to build an engine. At Nicjasno's forum (owned by Alex) they say that many people can't build a LPE, even with a building instruction. I now believe that is true. As I said, I reconstructed the engine, but it is not identical. The original LPEpower Inline 3 cylinder 2.0 SYS is a speed monster. All parts are optimized for speed, even the tubing. I have rebuild the engine with my own view and I made several changes, sometimes dune to the unavailablity of particular parts and sometime because I though it was a smart thing to do. I made photos of my construction which can be used as a building instruction.
It starts with this: In the following picture you can see how the switches are mounted: But before mounting them you must modify the technic pneumatic switches (part no: 4694). To ensure that the air can flow easily through the switch, the nozzles (inlet and outlet) are drilled up to 2mm in diameter. First open the switch by cutting the back plane from the switch body with a very sharp knife. Don't drill the holes without opening the switch. You will damage the inside and you can't remove the drilling dust. Also, the pins at the bottom of the switch (that defined positions of the switch) must be cut way, so that the switch can easily move back and forward. And remove some plastic on the black part that obstructed quick release of "used" air. After drilling and cutting you must clean the parts that otherwise can damage your switch. A good way to clean the switch is to blow with compressed air from a compressor. Use some silicone spray for lubrication into the switch before you reseal it with epoxy glue.
Don't press the back plane to strong to the switch, otherwise your switch will move with to must friction. Check Nicjasno's forum for more info. I damaged several switches before I successfully modified one. Removing the back plane without permanent damage is very diffecult. Glueing it all back together also awkward. I can't describe how to do it. It takes some practice to do it. Take some old switches to practise before you use good switches. Update: I made a special page and a video about how you can modify LEGO pneumatic switches. The same as with switches, the pneumatic cylinders the inlet/outlet must be drilled up to a diameter of 2mm. I use technic pneumatic cylinder new with hole base (complete assembly) (part no:47224c01), but you can use technic pneumatic cylinder new complete assembly (part no: 2793c01). Again the cylinder must be opened to prevent damaging the inside of the cylinder and to ensure that the drilling dust can be removed. Drilling dust will damage your cylinder if you don't remove it.
Click here to diplay the video at Youtube that shows how to open a cylinder with a screwdriver and drill the nozzles. The difference between the original inlet and the 2mm drilled inlet doesn't looks so much, but in performance it really makes a difference. In this video you can see that a modified cylinder respond directly and an original cylinder moves quite slow: To open the cylinder I used a screwdriver. I pressed it between the edge of the black cylinder cover and the yellow cylinder body. Ones it opens on one site I moved the screwdriver to the other site of the cylinder. Before the cylinders are placed into the engine, the crankshaft is made. This is how the crankshaft finally looks like: The tubing must be connected to the switch before placing the cylinders. Otherwise it is not possible to connect the hose at all. . LPEpower uses tubing made of special plastic tube, also used in the pneumatic industry. It is stiff and it has a bigger diameter then the orginal LEGO pneumatic hose.
The tube they use give a better air flow and can run engines up to 6 Bar. The axle at the down side of the engine has a important function. If the two black 36 tooth gears are not adjust is the right way to each other the engine wouldn't run. After I had constructed the LPE I tried to run it, but it didn't work. Ones I removed one of the 8 tooth gears and placed the crankshaft in the correct shape and then put back the 8 tooth gear, the engine start running. But at the fist test run this LPE didn't break any speed record, although I used a 6 bar (87 PSI) compressor. I didn't modified the switches and cylinders jet. In fact engine run rather slow. And lubricate with silicone spay didn't help: I knew what I had to do. I had read about it in the forums. It is a absolute requirement for performance: Modify the switches and cylinders to improve the air flow. Do apply both improvements (the switches and the cylinders), because the air flow is dependents on smallest passage! Despite its in size a small engine, its made of many parts.