We recently received a copy of LEGO’s exclusive addition to their Superhero line, The Tumbler. Official piece count is listed as 1869 elements. The actual model measures nearly 16 inches long, over 9 inches wide, over 5 inches high and weighs in at just over 4 and half pounds. The thing is huge! It currently retails at 199.99 USD. – It is very accurate to the original vehicle. The details, inside and out, are very good. The cockpit area is full of minute detail and the stickers really make the control panels come alive. The used of wedge plates, tiles, hinges, bar connections and ball joints work really well together to create the unique shape which is crucial to the Tumbler. – There are lots of good parts and a fair number of fairly unique pieces. The huge rear wheels are cool and the two front wheels are currently only available in this set, I believe. – The build is challenging and the there are some unusual techniques that were used to achieve the proper angles.
– It is a very good-looking model…quite an eye-catcher actually. – The parts are mostly black and grey. No surprise here as those are the colors with which Batman prefers to work. However is makes for a pretty monotone parts pack, if you are buying it for the pieces. – Its part-to-price ration is 10.7 cents per piece which is on the high end of average. So while this set is not over-priced, it’s not a bargain either. – The building experience was rather monotonous as every detail has a mirror image on the other side of the vehicle. So you build a detail and then you build it again but reversed. I don’t see how LEGO could have avoided that but it did get rather boring about half way through. – The lack of features left me feeling a bit flat. While it is a gorgeous model, as I mentioned earlier, it doesn’t do anything. Well, that is not entirely accurate. The rook panels lift off so you can access the cockpit, you can adjust the various wing pieces and the gear shift moves.
But other than that, nothing. I have built other sets this size and the good ones have some working features. This is really just a beauty queen, designed to sit on a shelf. The set is big and beautiful. I really like how it looks. If you want an accurate and impressive Tumbler made from LEGO, this is the set for you. However, if you are buying this for parts to add to your collection, I’d give it a pass. It isn’t over-priced and if you don’t regularly build models with intricate angles, you may learn some new building techniques. It will look good sitting on a shelf and will ‘wow’ your friends. But it won’t be one that you pull down to show off the cool features. Check out this album to see pics from the build. Here is a short video of how the Tumbler fared in The Brothers Brick’s state-of-the-art testing facility: /2014/08/18/review-76023-the-tumbler/ on this server. Your technical support key is: 36b3-d090-1756-6707The Tumbler101 ReviewsFIND MORE PRODUCTS LIKE THISDC Comics™ Super HeroesBuild the awesome Tumbler from the Batman™ The Dark Knight Trilogy!
In this Brick Breakdown series I review official LEGO sets, from the perspective of looking at interesting building techniques we can all learn from. Today we will be looking at the #76023 LEGO Super Heroes UCS Tumbler. You can also check out the previously discussed LEGO techniques found in official LEGO sets at the end of this article. When it comes to LEGO, anything labeled Ultimate Collector Series (UCS), you know is bound to be something special. Problem is they are on the pricey side and can take up a monstrous amount of room. Fortunately, the LEGO Super Heroes UCS Tumbler is a rather compact model so you won’t struggle finding a place to put it. With that said, it’s important to mention that this is more of a sculpted model and not at all meant for play. This means it is not the most durable due to a number of connection choices made in achieving all the very precise angles. So expect quite a few wedges in this set. Now let’s dive into the techniques used in this super special set!
As mentioned before, the LEGO Super Heroes UCS Tumbler model is a bit on the fragile side. This is primarily due to the fact that it has a sculpted design. This is where you have a base frame which you then use to layer large detailed sections on. This approach is very different than the typical LEGO set in that stability is only a consideration for the frame you build off of. Take for example a clay sculpture; normally when you are making something out of clay, you’ll build up the general shape first. Once this is done, you then proceed to sculpt details out of or onto the base. Since LEGO can only be built up if you are not modifying elements, you will only be building onto a frame. While sculpting out of LEGO you can layer elements through hinge work, angle sections via clips and bars, and mislead the eye with slopes. The end result is a lot of nontraditional lines that although can produce some impressive models, also loose stability. In order to practice this technique you will really need to work on building a strong foundation. T
his not only means connecting solidly with overlapping stud connections, but also horizontally with LEGO’s pin elements. Next, you will need to work into the foundation enough connection points for later decorative elements. This often entails strong understanding of brackets, pin connections, and the occasional clip and bar placement. Finally, you will need to think in terms of layers. Each layer going outward should further define the shape you want. So, as an example, a human head starts with a head shape. Then the next layer may define the chin, eye-sockets, brow-ridge, and cheek-bones. The next layer handles facial-hair like eyebrows and intricate shapes like the nose. Essentially, you are rendering a complex shape with every pass bringing you closer to the final product. ➡ STRUCTURAL FRAMING WITH LEGO In large designs like the LEGO Super Heroes UCS Tumbler, it is absolutely essential to know when and where to make your structural frame. This will be the general shape that maps out the full size of the model. F
or many large vehicles, the rectangular LEGO Technic bricks make an excellent quick frame without sacrificing stability. Once the shape is defined, you can then create the canvas. This is often a very flat studded surface like a standard plate. Once you get to this stage it means you probably won’t be building anything too significant away from the frame. The exception to this is if you are building to another structural frame. If you need any other reason why a structural frame is so necessary, it is the way you will be able to move a model. As strong as LEGO elements are, they can only hold so much weight unless you plan for it. This is why it’s sometimes impossible to move LEGO castles from one point to another; they are usually pretty big, and they have little to no structural frame in place to act as a single movable model. ➡ CURVING WITH TECHNIC ANGLES Most people start with basic LEGO System style elements – it’s just simpler to understand that studs connect with tubes. I
t’s practically a new system when people first experience LEGO Technic elements like axle-rods or snap-pegs (also referred to as pins by some LEGO fans). Nevertheless, LEGO continues using both systems together and you’ll develop a small collection of parts you’ll rarely use. So it is with this in mind that we look at a very basic technique that may help you ease into the idea that these two systems work well together. Take for instance, your basic angled connector; it holds two axles together and has a pinhole in the middle. From the outset it doesn’t seem very important to stud use. In this set they use a few Technic bricks with axle holes to make things a bit more compatible. Then they do something really simple; they angle one connector one way and a second in the opposite direction. These are, of course, connected with axles. Then they connect some of those Technic bricks with axle holes to the end. Then this is placed straight onto studs. Essentially what happens is that the two curves cancel each other out making them align with the straight rows of studs. H
owever, now there is an interesting angled rod between the two connectors. In the LEGO Super Heroes UCS Tumbler, curved lift-arms are used to build off of the axle, but you can use a much wider variety of elements, like more axle bricks. The nice thing with using axles is that you don’t have to be exact. They have a bit of wiggle room to let you experiment with. And once you’re ready for it to take up a very specific amount of shape, chances are there is an axle at that length. ➡ BUILDING SUSPENSIONS WITH LEGO Normally you probably don’t have to worry about adding a suspension to your LEGO vehicle. In this model, with the gigantic wheels needed to keep the vehicle in scale, LEGO designers work around the issue by having specialized connection-points for the monster doughnut wheels. Unfortunately you may not have this luxury. So here are a couple of tips to keep your vehicle from tipping. First, make sure the wheels are connected into the structural frame. If they are not, have reinforced sections that they connect into. N
ext, assure that the weight is evenly distributed. This is typically done by putting the wheels as far out as possible at the corners of the vehicle. Finally, you will need to take into consideration that the element used for allow turning movement can handle the weight of what is turning. This may mean you want to rig up something that utilizes multiple axles. In general, the smaller the piece the more sturdy it will be, but it gives up surface area to hold onto other things. For example a single pin is sturdy but it doesn’t have the reach of an axle. However, if the axle is too long, it leaves itself vulnerable to bending. Often the key is redundant parts use. So a series of pins in a gear are stronger than one. Just like a series of axles working together can handle more weight. ➡ APPLYING WHAT YOU LEARN Sculpting with LEGO is not necessarily a skill you need to master to be a great builder. It is rather another option of design you can pursue. There are many principles in design that good sculpting ignores, but you can keep it in mind as an optional tool when looks are the major priority. S