Finding the Missing Bricks: Rebuilding Vintage Lego Train Kits imageLego introduced its first train series in 1966 with set number 080. In the years since, the Lego Train product line expanded considerably, which made it necessary for Lego to retire old sets in order to...Read More about Finding the Missing Bricks: Rebuilding Vintage Lego Train KitsOur community, 712 want it Our community, 1127 want itHow to Make 9V and 12V Lego Train Tracks *-* Click images for Huge Pictures Intro: Make Plastic Lego Train Tracks Backwards Compatible with 9V and 12V Tracks Step One: Supplies Needed The only supplies you'll need are Lego track and some foil tape. (if you don't want to use real track, there's another method here using 'O' gauge model railroad track that looks like a lot of work) The foil tape can be had at any real hobby supply store or stained glass shop. This foil tape is actually meant to be used between pieces of glass and then solderedIf you don't want copper colored tracks you can buy stainless steel or aluminum foil tape (I don't mind
copper tracks, but I'm sure others will disagree). I have found aluminum "flashing" tape at hardware stores, if you have a lathe or infinite patience you can cut this up into strips the correct width and then you'll have silver track. Otherwise stainless steel foil tape looks common online, I haven't ordered any but you can certainly look around. New All Plastic Lego Train Track ***A note on the tape - I purchased mine from "Hobby Lobby" at ~$6 for 36 yards (7/32" wide) of copper strip. an adhesive on one side and is plain copper on the other. The important thing is that you get the cheap stuff and not the heavy adhesive or black/silver backed tape, as it will not conduct if you need to tape a section to another section (as you'll probably have to do for switch tracks, etc) I know this foil is also sold without adhesive, so make sure you get the correct Step Two: Check out the Track and the Train Motor Step Three: Get to it! LEGO trains are one of the most popular (or at least most organised) themes of System-scale models amongst AFOLs.
Whilst officially Trains was originally a theme of its own in the LEGO stable, it was moved first to the World City category, containing both the former Town and Trains themes, and then to the City theme. As its name suggests, this theme primarily encompasses train sets, although it also covers some associated structures, signalling and, of course, train tracks. Lego trains have been through a number of different changes, which can be roughly summed up in three major eras. Unlike most other themes, where AFOLs tend to use the latest pieces, some people continue to use older varieties of trains due to personal, historical and practical reasons. The first era was characterised by blue rails and white ties (sleepers). Wheels were often red. Both 4.5V (battery powered) and 12V (powered using add on center conductor rails) sets were available during this era. The switches (points) in this era dictated sleeper to sleeper spacing of parallel tracks. The second era, characterised by dark grey ties (sleepers) and light grey rails.
Wheels were red or black. Both 4.5V (battery powered) and 12V (powered using addon center conductor rails) sets were available during this era. This marked the end of the earlier two voltages. This era was characterised by integral molded dark grey rail/tie assemblies with metal conducting rails. The line was renamed Hobby Trains by LEGO in 2006 to differentiate it from the Infrared line introduced that year. Despite the efforts of the Save 9V Trains campaign the line was discontinued in 2007 due to high production costs and low sales compared to other LEGO product lines. Beginning in late 2006, LEGO introduced a range of battery powered Remote Control (RC) trains. These trains use Infrared (IR) for communication with the remote. They run on track almost identical to 9V track but without the metal conducting strip. Many trainheads feared that this heralded the end of the 9V system although The LEGO Group claimed they would be continuing to sell track, motors and accessories as Shop-at-Home exclusive products.
In October 2007, LEGO announced it would be discontinuing both RC and 9V trains, in favor of a new system using Power Functions that would also be used across the Technic line. The new system was introduced in 2009 with the release of the Emerald Night (10194) train. Complete train sets followed, which included the introduction of a new 'flexible track' to complement the range of track carried over from the RC line. The PFT system included many advantages over the discontinued RC system, including IR receivers and battery boxes being seperate components (rather than incorporated into a 'train base' plate), 8 effective control channels rather than 3, an optional rechargable battery pack, and the use the smaller (AAA rather than AA) cells in the standard battery back. There are a number of famous LEGO sets in the trains line. See also the category Famous sets. Due to its popularity as a theme, and the organised structure amongst AFOLs, the train theme has diverged somewhat from its original LEGO incarnation.
This can be observed by noting a number of developments such as The International LEGO Train Club Organization (ILTCO) has coordinated efforts across different train clubs culminating in some of the largest showings of Lego Trains at the National Model Railroad Association sponsored National Train Show in Cincinatti, Ohio USA in July 2005, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in July 2006, and in Detroit, Michigan in July 2007. Due to the vast differences in Rolling stock between countries, LEGO train design tends to vary from place to place. Some of the most popular countries amongst modellers are the USA and Canada, the UK, the Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland and France whilst many other countries have less stock modelled. LEGO also produce a range of DUPLO Trains trains for younger builders. A license for Thomas the Tank Engine was begun in 2005 which may herald the end for regular DUPLO trains. This article is a stub. You can help by adding to it Sign up or log in to customize your list.
Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I would like to purchase some used lego train tracks off ebay. I am not, however, very familiar with the different choices of track systems are out there that I might come across. So I would like to learn more about the existing types of track systems. What kinds has lego used at various eras in their history? If I'd like train tracks that are compatible with the currently available new lego city train sets, what types of tracks should I consider? If possible, I'd love to see photos of a basic piece of each kind side by side to see the differences. The LEGO train systems are all roughly compatible. They all use a 6 stud gauge, so with a bit of fiddling, you can use all of the systems together. If you want to be most compatible with the current track offerings, you're better off with 9V and RC/PF track. This question discusses the specific compatibility issues in more detail.
The different types of train track can be divided into a few main eras. Blue Era (1966 - 1980) A track section consisted of 2 rails connected by regular 2x8 plates. The rails themselves were blue. Trains could be either pushed by hand along the track, powered via 3 batteries (4.5V system), or powered via a third conducting rail added to the center of the track (12V system). Here are what the conducting rails for the 12V system look like: Some people still prefer the 12V system because it included more remote controlled components than the later 9V or RC/PF systems. With later systems, the only thing that is easily remote controlled is the train itself, whereas the 12V system included remote controlled points, light, and decouplers. Each era included straight track, curved track, switches, and cross track. Gray Era (1980 - 1991) These rails are generally the same as the blue rails aside from the new gray color. The sleepers were moved closer together (3 per section rather than 2), and they were changed to a specialized part to improve the strength of the connection.