Hot Shot Bed Bug and Flea Killer 2 oz. Aerosol Fogger (3-Pack) Sorted By: Most helpful We purchased bunk beds from a furniture store and began notices bites on the kids and saw the bugs. We researched what to do. We sprayed Raid Bed Bug spray on all the crevices, washed all linen and vacuumed floor. The bugs were killed and all seemed fine but didn't realize the eggs would hatch and tiny nits were seen. We had the bed picked up by the company and purchased Hot Shot Fogger from Home Depot. We placed 2 cans in each room of the house (even the storage room) to saturate fully. We took all linen to the laundry and washed everything. It has been 2 weeks and we have not seen any bugs are nits. We had a small problem in two bedrooms but I used this product in all three of my bedrooms. I also used two cans per room, dried all the clothes in the rooms on high heat 10 mins per load, threw out anything that I was no longer using, washed and dried all linens and rugs and took the mattresses off the bedframes and leaned them on the walls.
No bites or bugs in sight and it's been one month. We tried 90% alcohol, hot shot bed bug spray and diatomaceous earth powder and none of those things worked. This was the only thing that worked and it killed spiders and other insects too. Works well, easy to deploy Works best when set off to The Dead Kennedy's "Chemical Warfare" . Didn't work at all Had a bed bug infestation in a bedroom so we set off one in the middle of the room. Came back in and nearly killed me how strong it was but the bugs were still crawling...set off all three back to back and the bugs still survived and crawled around during the several days that we let it sit and do it's thing...just in case. I think it might have made them uncomfortable but didn't work in my book. This was about 2 years ago, since I've learned that rubbing alcohol in a sprayer is VERY effective. one can per normal size room...did it once, and the bed bugs were gone easy, works on ticks My mom had a Stephen King level infestation and these foggers worked.
The 3 pack was nice because due to Mom's extreme clutter, we bombed, moved items, then bombed again. Hers why other people failed when using this product... Please disregard any reviews in which the individual only used the product once or twice. A flea's eggs hatch in approximately 12 days. Each female flea lays about 20 eggs and they all need a humid environment, between 70-85 degrees. If you have a flea problem, you need to bomb each room consistently every week for approximately 4-6 weeks in order to solve your flea problem. This product works, but fleas cannot be destroyed all at once. It takes time and consistency. By bombing every week, you are drastically increasing your chance at killing flea's before they have laid eggs. As each week goes on, you'll notice less of a flea problem BUT DON'T STOP until at least 4 weeks. You may think the problem is solved, but a female can lay up to 100 eggs in her lifetime so if you miss just one female flea, it may start the whole process again.
Other tips when using this product: it would be beneficial to keep the house cooler than 70 during the weeks of bombing as well as vacuuming every 1-2 days. Lowering the temperature creates an undesirable environment for fleas and vacuuming removes dead carcasses and any potential eggs/larvae. Make sure to remove the bag from the apartment asap.This is an awesome product and helped me tremendously. don't waste your money Had used these type products for years with poor results! If it is a flea infestation use borax IT WORKS and is CHEAP about 3ish dollars and is not as toxic (if at all) to humans and pets alike. I had to use it 2 times to get rid of fleas. We are good now. After working hard to get rid of the fleas in my home for almost a month, I had finally had enough. I live alone and have one dog. I had him professionally cleaned, and thankfully he is now flea free and living with my mother until I get them out of this house. All I can say is, this product helped, buuuuuuuut didn't really do what it said.
It did NOT kill all the fleas. It did NOT work as well as described. I vacuumed the house every day for a week trying to get it at least under control. So after buying twice as many of these foggers as needed, I vacuumed again, set them ALL off, and left the house for 5 hours (3 hours more than needed). Came home expecting to be able to lay on the floor without issue, yet looked down and had them jumping on my legs. Not nearly as many as before, but still.....I just want them gone. This product will help, but I wouldn't bet on it as a fix all product.You don’t need any special woodworking skills to build this very attractive DIY kitchen table. Alexi Politis, Seeking Alexi, created this project with budget in mind, too. Not only is this a great project for a beginning to intermediate DIYer, it’s great for anyone who wants to save money, too. Just follow Alexi’s simple tutorial to build your own DIY kitchen table. I wanted mine to be 8 ft. long, so I didn’t have to cut any of my wide boards at all (which makes it easy and quick!).
The final size of my table is 43 in. x 96 in. which is a little wider than some tables, but I wanted lots of space in the middle for holiday decorations and food, duh! I’d never used a pocket screw jig before, but the instructions included in the Kreg K4 pocket screw system is pretty hard to mess up. (And pretty much magical if you ask me!) You’ll want to set it to ¾ and drill holes every 8-12 inches, with the outside pocket screw holes a couple inches from the edges. Only drill holes in 5 of the 6 boards. Your boards will look a bit like this when you’re done. Add one strip of glue along your board, align the first two boards, and screw them together using the Kreg pocket screws. Connect all your boards together until the top of your table looks like this. Let it dry sufficiently according to the drying directions on the glue you use, but two days is what I would recommend.As it dries after you’ve connected your whole table top, place it on a flat surface, and add a few heavy things on it so it will dry nice and flat!
It’s inevitable that your seams will not align. Save yourself some major time by hand-planing the seams, emphasis on the careful! This is the trickiest step, because the hand planes can be pretty aggressive if you’re not careful. So, move that setting to low, and move slowly! Oh man, the joys of a wood project. With every wood project I’ve done, including this one, there’s so much sanding! It took me a solid couple hours of sanding to get this table top just perfect. I plugged in some headphones and had myself my own private dance party as I sanded. Start with a low grit, like 80 to get rid of all the glue and fix all of those seams. Move to a medium grit like 120 to get that wood nice and even, then end with 220 to finish it off. Roughly 70 percent of your time will be spent on the lowest grit, around 15 percent on the medium grit, and only about 5 percent with the fine grit at the end. Your tabletop will sit on top of a frame to add some stability.
I had a 2¾ in. gap between my table edge and the wood frame, which meant I ended up with two 90½ in. 1 in. x in. strips, and four 36 in. strips (two for the ends, and two cross-bars). These need to be cut to size before you stain. On soft woods like pine, you should be using a pre-stain conditioner. Follow the instructions on your can, but essentially you spread it on using a paint brush, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then wipe off what wasn’t soaked into the wood with a clean rag. This is the most satisfying part. I love seeing how the wood transforms when you add color to it. I’m using Espresso 247 stain by Minwax. I’ve used it on all my other house projects, so they all fit nicely together. I like to paint stain on with a brush, it’s less messy, but still use latex gloves! Follow the grain, stay nice and even, and be generous. The stain will sit for about 15 minutes then wipe off all the stain that you can! That means I started wiping off the extra about as soon as I finished painting it on, since the project was so big.
Let your stain soak in for 6 hours without touching it! because you’re almost done, and your table top is looking so good! Add two pocket screw holes to both ends of all four cross section boards, the 36 in. ones. The jig allows for you to drill both holes without moving it, so clever! Note, if you only stained three of the four edges like I did, make sure you are drilling the pocket screw holes into the unfinished side of your boards. Drill the outside together using those Kreg pocket screws and add the cross boards evenly spaced on the inside of your frame. This step surprised me and really transforms the slab of wood to finally look like a table top! Add pocket screw holes all the way around your frame, every 8 in. or so.Adjust your pocket screw jig! You do not want to have the screws poke through your table top. How awful would that be? Aire on the side of caution here. I adjusted my Kregg jig down twice so it was set to ½in. instead of ¾in. Better safe than sorry with all that hard work!
This step will be different depending on your legs of choice. For my hairpin legs, I had to add a 2 in. x 4 in. into the corners to attach my legs to. And you guessed it, I used the Kregg jig to attach it! Screw that into the frame, not the table top, and then attach the legs to the 2 in. x 4 in. You might need to pre-drill holes for your screws. This 3-day DIY kitchen table project was such a blast to do, and a great learning experience! Almost everything I did was brand-new to me, so I learned a lot! And boy, that Kregg pocket screw jig is amazing! I was terrified to use it before I started, but it has opened my mind to so many possibilities. I can’t wait to use it on future projects! Don’t let trying new things hold you back! The only way to learn is to give it a try, that’s how I was with the pocket screw jig and now it’s my favorite tool! So, you got this! Be brave, give new things a try, and learn some new skills! Follow our Easy DIY Projects board on Pinterest for more DIY projects and inspiration.