The requested URL /sliding_door_gear_list.php?config=Straight+Sliding was not found on this server.When planning to cut an opening in a wall, whether masonry or wood, establish whether it is loadbearing or non-loadbearing. For advice on this, and on supporting the upper levels of a wall or structure while cutting openings, see the information below. The techniques needed for cutting smaller openings such as a doorway or serving hatch are those shown below. If a door is to be placed in the opening, you do not need to be exacting in making good the cut edges, because the door jamb will cover them. In calculating how large to make the opening, allow for a door jamb, and get header specifications calculated by a structural engineer. - Internal alterations may not always need a permit, but check with your local building inspector, because regulations vary. Exterior changes such as adding a new window often have to be authorized. - If the wall has a baseboard, remove it before starting work, and reinstall it after making good the walls around the new doorway.
- Seek professional advice if you have any doubts about carrying out structural improvements to your home. If you are cutting into a loadbearing wall, you should use temporary props, a header and cripple studs, even for a small opening. 2007 Dorling Kindersley Limited Use an existing stud as the hinging edge of the doorway. After cutting the opening, add blocking between the trimmer studs above it, and insert a new stud in the open edge of the doorway. Then either attach a door jamb and door or, if the gap is to be an opening with no door, apply drywall and an angle bead, then finish. For a serving hatch, cut an opening in the same way. Insert blocking across the bottom edge before drywalling and installing casing. This image shows a doorway to be cut into a non-loadbearing wall. The wood elements outlined in red form the edges of the doorway. This is a job for a structural engineer. Specifications for the header and supports will be given. Supporting the frame is possible only on the inside.
If the wall is brick- or block-clad, masonry is removed slowly, and angled steel posts placed, until it is possible to insert the header. A header is needed for any opening in masonry, no matter how small the span. It will probably need to be concrete or a metal box header; take advice from a structural engineer on the type and strength you need. Some tips specific to small openings are given here, but the techniques for supporting the wall and cutting the opening are those shown above. For small openings in brickwork — no wider than 3 feet, for example — it may be possible to cut the opening without temporary support. If any bricks fall out of their positions, they can be replaced after the header is set in place. With blockwork, however, it is almost always necessary to use a temporary support. If you need to cut into an exterior cavity wall for a new window or a doorway, use a cavity wall header. This will provide support while retaining the cavity wall's damp-proofing function.
It directs any moisture in the cavity out though weep holes in the wall. Your structural engineer will specify the strength to use. Close off the cavity at the sides of the new opening, either using cavity closers or by laying blocks. Here is some general guidance on the support needed when cutting into a wall. Consult a structural engineer for advice on the size, material and strength of header needed. Also get advice on temporary support if you wish to cut into a cavity wall. Wall type: Non-loadbearing lumberTemporary support: Not neededHeader required? Wall type: Non-loadbearing masonryTemporary support: If masonry above opening exceeds two rows of bricks or blocks, use a special support; if it is one or two rows, no support is needed (if blocks fall out, reinsert above the header)Header required? Wall type: Loadbearing lumberTemporary support: Posts on ceilingHeader required? Yes, with cripple studs Wall type: Loadbearing masonryTemporary support: Post or special support centrally, or every 3 feetHeader required?
Interior and exterior doors: life expectancy, cost and more Interior and exterior doors: life expectancy, cost and moreImprovement Center Columnist | Doors let us into our homes, keep out unwanted guests and pests, protect us from fire and the elements, slam when we need to make a point, prop open when we're feeling inviting and lock up tight when we're not. They've been doing their jobs for thousands of years and have gone through many iterations since their early days. Even the most advanced doors around today won't last forever -- although some might come close. Below, you'll find a breakdown of different kinds of doors, how long they last, rough prices, pros, cons and even a few suggestions for use. Exterior doors: it's a hard-knock life The portals to your home, exterior doors have a difficult job: they have to be tough, insulate well, open easily, lock and look good doing it all. They last a lot longer when protected some from the elements by an awning, enclosed entryway, screen or storm door.
Here are the most common types of exterior doors:Vinyl doors are rarely the main event. For exteriors, they're most often used as screen or glass doors. You won't need to paint or really do anything to them during their lifespan, which is typically around 20 years. They usually run anywhere from $50 to $200, depending on how much glass is used.Advancements in fiberglass door construction have made these indistinguishable from real wood doors pretty much right up until you knock on one (and even then it's tough). They don't warp, rust or split, and they're thermally efficient. A fiberglass door is good for a lifetime (well over 100 years). Costs range from around $200 for a basic, no-glass/no-frills unit up to nearly $5,000 for a decorative and protective front door that's sure to impress.A fire-rated steel door can take a beating like no other. Look for units that have an insulating core to keep unpleasant temperatures outside where they belong. These doors last a lifetime (100+ years), and they don't cost an arm and leg, usually coming in between $75 and $500.
There's nothing quite like a nice, real-wood door. Price, quality, durability and life-expectancy vary dramatically by wood type, with pine being at the bottom end and hardwoods occupying the top. A pine door lasts around 20 years, cedar about 40 years and a hardwood like mahogany 60 or more. Because of all the different options, the cost can range from $200 for pine with glass to $10,000 for some hand-carved hardwoods. Other types of exterior doors include these:You can find these available in many different materials and styles, with prices that fall into the ranges above. Because of the hardware, these doors typically last about 30 years (more with service). Screen, security and storm. These are great for protecting your entryway door from the elements and are available in all of the materials above -- but rarely found in wood. They usually last upwards of 30 years. The ins and outs of interior doors Doors inside your home don't take nearly the beating that exterior doors do.