1-Panel Knotty Pine Single Prehung Interior Door with Bronze Hinges Set your store to see localavailabilitySmooth 6-Panel Solid Core Primed Molded Single Prehung Interior DoorNew Interior DoorsCraftsman Style Interior DoorsCraftsman Style WindowsPainting Doors InteriorInterior Door StylesWhite CraftsmanSliding InteriorCraftsman InteriorsInteriors InteriorForwardinterior doors in white craftsman style, I want these doors. Just got new doors, now I want to change them to these doors. Need to butter up the hubby...Palazzo Treviso Smooth 3-Panel Round Top Solid Core Primed Composite Single Prehung Interior Door Clear All Go to All Filters Clear All Go to All Filters36 in. x 80 in. Molded Smooth 5-Panel French Vanilla Hollow Core Composite Single Prehung Interior DoorAn interior door upgrade can rejuvenate any space, especially when it brings in natural light, as does this Masonite Door with Privacy Glass. It’s not hard to install an interior slab door (as opposed to a pre-hung door).
Follow our step-by-step tutorial and learn how to give any room a whole new look. Here is a before and after shot of the room where we’re adding the new door. As you can see, this one simple DIY can make a huge difference. Measure for the new door slab by checking the old door’s width in three places — across the top, middle and bottom of the door. Jot down the widest dimension. Next, measure the door’s height and thickness. Before removing the old door, remove the knob and any hardware off the old door frame using the appropriate screwdriver or drill and drill bit. To remove the old door, start by backing the screws out of each hinge on the door slab with a screwdriver or drilling and pulling it away from the door frame. Next, dry fit the new interior slab door in the opening, using shims to hold it in place if needed. If the new door doesn’t fit, the old door can be used as a template to indicate where the new door slab should be trimmed.
Simply place the new door on a flat work surface, then place the old door on top of it, making sure to align both doors in the same direction (right side up, opening to same direction, etc.). Mark the bottom of the old door on the new door with a pencil. Next, with a utility knife, score along that line, then using a circular saw, trim the new door slab to size. Sand any rough edges as needed with an orbital sander. Note: Be sure to wear appropriate safety glasses and protective work gloves when using power tools. Again, using the old door as a template, with a pencil, mark on the new door where the hinges and door knob will be located. Score the line around the hinges with a utility knife, then notch the perimeter and interior of hinge area with a hammer and chisel. Next using the chisel, gradually skim off the notches. Once notching is complete, attach the new hinges to the new door. Secure the door lockset kit onto the door using the provided screws, then using the hole saw bit, drill into one side, then the other.
Next, drill into the side edge of the door to create a hole for the latch. While the door is lying flat, install the latch portion of the new knob by tracing around it, then scoring with a utility knife and chiseling it out using the same method from Step 7, so that the latch lays flush against the door edge. Once the latch is in place, move the new door to its location, add shims to adjust the door’s height and attach the other side of all hinges to the door frame. Hang the door and check the fit. If adjustments are needed, remove the door and sand or trim the door with a planer, as needed, then reinstall the door. If the fit is good, leave the door in place, and move on to finishing the lockset installation. Install the lockset using a Philips screwdriver. Follow the instructions that came with your particular lockset. Install the latch plate into the door frame by lining it up with the latch from the door knob, then scoring/chiseling as we did in Step 10 with the hinges.
If your door features glass, be sure to leave the protective plastic on until you’ve finished painting your door. Allow the paint to dry completely, and you’re done! Browse our selection of Masonite Doors at The Home Depot. Take a look at more DIY projects here on The Home Depot blog, and follow our Easy DIY Projects board on Pinterest. Is your idea of DIY is hiring a professional? Let us do it for you. Contact The Home Depot Home Services.How to Measure For a New Prehung Interior Door I am trying to find a door to replace one of my bedroom doors. The problem I have is that all the interior doors in my house measure 29-1/2" x 80". They are all hollow core 6 panel doors and look very much like a pre fab product with no signs of any custom sizing. Yet I am unable to find any doors to replace them at any store or online. Am I crazy or just that ignorant when it comes to this area home maintenance? Any advice will be appreciated. Not what you were looking for ?
Hello and thank you for joining our How to Community. Is 29-1/2 “x80” slab or a door measurement? Slab is the operating part of the unit only and a door is the slab + the side jambs (frame). 29 1-2”slab would be matched to a 30” door (unit)... I've purchased both the 28" and 30"sizes, in hopes that one would work...no luck. Am I going to have to buy a comlete prehung door? No you don’t HAVE to buy one. However, considering tools needed and work involved, fitting a new slab, it might be EASIER if you were to buy one and replace a complete unit. Right now you have a “non standard” 30” door/slab. To replace a non standard slab you would need to purchase a standard replacement non-mortised 30” slab. Non- mortised means that there is no bore (hole) for the lock and no slots for the hinges – so basically it’s a plain slab. This new replacement slab (non-mortised) it’s going to be slightly bigger than your existing slab, actually to be precise it’s going to be 5/8” of an inch wider and ½” an inch taller.
This said you would need to rip a new slab for 5/8” of an inch and cut it down for ½” an inch to match your old slab. But it’s not that simple. You can cut ½” an inch from the bottom or top of the slab but you should not rip all 5/8” from one side of the slab. With hollow doors, side rails – section that it’s getting ripped down, its only 1-1/4” wide and if you were to cut 5/8” of one side of the door you would structurally weaken it. So to get this slab to last, 5/8” should be taken from both sides of the slab. Once the door is cut to match the old door, next step would be to cut the hinge slots. For the hinge slots you can use existing hinges or the old door as a template. Once the hinge slots are cut next step would be to hang a door, test to see if it closes right, scribing a lock hole (with the door closed) ,taking it down ,boring a lock hole and hanging it back up with the lock installed. To make this all easier to grasp I’ve attached two videos in this post.
One video demonstrates how to cut hinge slots and the other one how to cut a hole for the lockset. I know this can be overwhelming for an inexperienced DIY-er ,but if you’re comfortable using power tools (saw and drill) we'll be here to help with every step along the way. Or like mentioned at the beginning of this post, you can buy a prehung door and replace the old completely. This still may require use of some power tools but it would not entail as much work as changing the slab would. Just in case if you decide to replace the complete door, here's the How-to-Video that you can refer to; Thanks for all the information. I am now armed with all the information I need. Now I'm off to Home Depot to buy my third and final door! The ideas and video which are shared are all informative. Thank you for sharing such useful ideas. My views said that to install door we should hire an experience contractor who can give you full ideas about replacement. As there are various door collection which you can view on line like storm proof doors, impact doors , sliding doors, double-hung doors etc.