Cost to Install a Door LockUpdated: January 2017 Door Lock Installation Cost CalculatorZip Code Locks Door Lock Cost6 locks$648.56$1,018.95 Door Lock Labor, Basic6 locks$648.56$1,018.95 Door Lock Job Supplies6 locks$648.56$1,018.95 Totals - Cost To Install Door Lock Average Cost per Lock Get an INSTANT, detailed estimate of the cost to Install a Door Lock! Our free calculator uses up-to-date, trusted data to estimate typical subcontractor costs for a Door Lock Installation project. For a basic 6 locks project in zip code 47474, the benchmark cost to Install a Door Lock ranges between $143 - $278 per lock. To estimate costs for your project:1. Set Project Zip Code Enter the Zip Code for the location where labor is hired and materials purchased.2. Specify Project Size Enter the number of "doors" required for the project.3. Re-calculate Click the "Update" button. Do you need professional help for your project? The FREE homewyse hiring guide helps you find and hire great help, get quality craftsmanship and create a fair contract.
Cost to Install a Door Lock - Notes and General Information These estimates are for BASIC work performed in serviceable conditions by qualified trade professionals using MID GRADE materials. Work not mentioned on this page and/or work using master craftsman, premium materials and project supervision will result in HIGHER COSTS! Explore the full range of door lock new installation labor options and material prices here.These estimates are NOT substitutes for written quotes from trade professionals. Homewyse strongly recommends that you contact reputable professionals for accurate assessments of work required and costs for your project - before making any decisions or commitments. The cost estimate includes: Costs for local material / equipment delivery to and service provider transportation to and from the job site. Costs to prepare the worksite for Door Lock Installation, including costs to protect existing structure(s), finishes, materials and components. Costs for job cleanup and debris removal at project completion.
Labor setup time, mobilization time and minimum hourly charges that are commonly included for small Door Lock Installation jobs. The cost estimate does NOT include:Costs for removing, relocating, repairing, or modifying existing framing, surfacing, HVAC, electrical, and plumbing systems - or bringing those systems into compliance with current building codes.Costs for testing and remediation of hazardous materials (asbestos, lead, etc). General contractor overhead and markup for organizing and supervising the Door Lock Installation. Add 15% to 23% to the total cost above if a general contractor will supervise this project. Sales tax on materials and supplies. Permit or inspection fees (or portion thereof) required by your local building department for your overall project. Cost to Install a Door Lock - References Unit Pricing Data: Lowes Windows and Doors Lowes , Jan 2017, Website Unit Pricing Data: Home Depot Window and Door Home Depot, Jan 2017, Website
Unit Pricing Data: Menards Door and Window Menards, Jan 2017, Website Unit Pricing Data: Brosco Price Catalog - Windows, Doors and Millwork Brosco, Jan 2017, Website Unit Pricing Data: Doors, Windows and Millwork Pricing McCoys, Jan 2017, Website The HUD PATH Rehab Guide Volume 4: Windows and Doors U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development Office of Policy Development and Research, Mar 2011, Editorial Staff How to Estimate the Cost of Doors, Windows and Hardware American Society of Professional Estimators, Oct 2011, Gary Terrell, CPI Windows United States Department of Energy, Dec 2009, Editorial Staff Exterior Doors United States Department of Energy, Dec 2009, Editorial Staff Door Lock Installation - Average Cost Per Lock Expect to pay in the higher end of the price range for a licensed, insured and reputable pro - and for complex or rush projects.To lower Door Lock Installation costs: combine related projects, minimize options/extras and be flexible about project scheduling.
Help the homewyse Community We're a cooperative community that values and depends on your input. So, let us know - how can we improve this site? Would your friends and online contacts benefit from homewyse information? Make homewyse better for everyone - send your feedback or share this page. Send your feedback or questions. Share homewyse on Facebook, Twitter or Google+ using the buttons below: Check the rough opening Place a 4-foot level on the floor in the doorway. If the hinge side is lower than the latch side, slip shims under the level nearest the hinge jamb. Adjust the until the level's bubble is centered. Tack the shims to the floor with a finish nail. If the latch side is lower, no shims are needed. Check the walls and the trimmer studs for plumb using a level or plumb bob. Also, check the trimmers' faces with a framing square to see if they are square to the wall. Finally, check that the trimmers are parallel by measuring between them at the top, bottom, and middle of the opening.
If the wall is out of plumb, or the trimmers are out of plumb, out of square, or not parallel. On the hinge jamb, measure from the bottom of the jamb to the center of each hinge. Mark the hinge locations on the hinge-side trimmer by measuring up from the floor (or top of the shims). Tack the plumb bob to the top of the hinge-side trimmer, and measure the gap between the string and the trimmer at each hinge location. Where the gap is the smallest, place overlapping shims. Adjust the shims to 1/8 inch thick, and tack them with a finish nail. Measure the gap between the shims and the plumb bob string. Place overlapping pairs of shims at the other two hinge locations. Adjust each pair's thickness until the gap between shims and string equals the gap at the first pair. Nail each pair to the trimmer and cut off the ends with a utility knife so they don't protrude past the drywall. Fit door into opening Lift the door into the rough opening and push the hinge jamb tight against the shims tacked to the trimmers.
Tack an 8d finish nail through the face of the hinge-side casing 3 inches below the miter, into the trimmer. Hold a level against the face of the casing and adjust the jamb in and out until plumb. If the wall is plumb and the casing rests flush against it, tack 8d finish nails through it at the other two hinge locations. If the wall is out of plumb and the casing does not rest against it, shim behind the casing at the hinge locations to make the door plumb. Nail through the casing and shims and into the trimmer. Fill any gaps between the casing and the wall with tapered wood wedges. Check the horizontal gap, or "reveal," between the top of the door and the head jamb. It should be uniform from left to right and 1/8- to 3/16-inch wide. If necessary, adjust the reveal by pushing up the head casing. Set this reveal by driving an 8d nail through the face of the latch-side casing and into the trimmer, near the top of the door. Check the vertical reveal between door and jamb on the latch side.
It should be about the thickness of a nickel. To adjust it, grab the casing and move the jamb by hand. Open and close the door to check that its leading edge, the one that rests against the stop, clears the jamb by a consistent 1/8 inch. Set the reveal by driving 8d finish nails every 16 inches through the latch-side casing and into the trimmer. Make sure the reveal remains consistent. Slip a pair of shims between main jamb on the latch side and the trimmer, near the top of the door opening. When they are just touching the back of the jamb without putting any pressure on it, nail them to the trimmer with 8d finish nails. Nail additional pairs of shims a few inches above the base of this jamb, as well as just above and below the strike plate. Without these shims, the jamb could flex. On the hinge jamb, remove the center screw from the top hinge leaf and replace it with a screw that's long enough to penetrate the trimmer. This prevents the door from sagging and binding.
Tip: If the long screws don't match the ones that came with the hinges, install them behind the hinge leaf. Attach the split jamb Starting at the bottom, gently push the edge of the split jamb into the groove in the main jamb. Tap the two jambs together using both hands. Nail the casing to the wall on both sides of each miter, and about every 18 inches along the casing. To hold the two jambs together, drive 8d finish nails through the stop and into the trimmers: one nail at each hinge location, one through the shims near the top and the bottom of the latch jamb, and one each just above and below the striker. Do NOT nail into the head jamb. Mount the latch hardware Fasten the strike plate to the mortise in the latch jamb using the screws provided. If the plate is bigger than the mortise, put the plate on the jamb, outline it with a pencil, and chisel to the outline. Slip the latch bolt into its bore and fasten its plate into the mortise on the door's edge with the screws provided.