Specially designed plastic fixing for plasterboard.Finish: Grey-Moulded under head ribs act as an anti-spin device.-Rimmed head prevents insertion beneath the substrate surface.-Plastic toggle wings pull up and secure against inside of plasterboard when screw is inserted.-Popular for fixing brackets, handrails and shelving.-Suitable of use in most types of hollow wall and plasterboard. Specially designed plastic fixing for plasterboard. Nylon Speed PlugSupplied with pozidrive compatible 4.5x35mm round head screws.Finish: Nylon-Specially designed cutting tip to pierce plasterboard skin.-Nylon speed plugs can be used in electrical installations.-Screw and fixture can be removed for cleaning and decoration.-Ideal when re-fixing into existing plug or anchor holes.-Alternative screws can be used if required.-Suitable for use in most types of hollow walls and plasterboard. Nylon Speed PlugSupplied with pozidrive compatible 4.5x35mm round head screws.Finish: Nylon-Specially designed cutting tip to pierce plasterboard skin.-Nylon speed plugs can be used in electrical installations.-Screw and fixture can be removed for cleaning and decoration.-Ideal when re-fixing into existing plug or anchor holes.-Alternative screws can be used if required.-Suitable for use in most types of hollow walls and plasterboard
Metal Speed PlugSupplied with pozidrive compatible 4.5x35mm round head screwsFinish: Zinc Alloy-Specially designed cutting tip to pierce plasterboard skin.-Screw and fixture can be removed for cleaning and decoration.-Ideal when re-fixing into existing plug or anchor holes.-Countersink feature allows flush fitting to plasterboard.-New design flange on screw head acts as a fixed washer distributing the load.-Alternative screws can be used if required.-Suitable for use in most types of hollow walls and plasterboard. Metal Speed PlugSupplied with pozidrive compatible 4.5x35mm round head screwsFinish: Zinc Alloy.-Specially designed cutting tip to pierce plasterboard skin.-Screw and fixture can be removed for cleaning and decoration.-Ideal when re-fixing into existing plug or anchor holes.-Countersink feature allows flush fitting to plasterboard.-New design flange on screw head acts as a fixed washer distributing the load.-Alternative screws can be used if required.-Suitable for use in most types of hollow walls and plasterboard.
Speed Plug200 x Zinc Alloy Fixing200 x 4.0x35mm screwPozi compatible 'Soft Grip' Screwdriver A specially designed steel fixing for plasterboard.Supplied with pozidrive compatible 4.0x30mm countersunk head screws.Finish:Zinc Yellow Passivated.-Specially designed tip simply pierces the plasterboard skin when tapped in. All steel heat resistant fixing for plasterboard.Supplied with universal cross pan head machine screws.Finish: Zinc Plated.-Suitable for heavy duty fixing applications such as radiators and wall units.-Anti-rotation teeth pierce the base skin to ensure firm anchorage.-Screw and fixing can be removed.-Specialist fixing gun can be used for repetitive fixing applications.-Suitable for use in most types of hollow walls, fibreboard, plasterboard and partitions.Finish: Zinc Plated.-Supplied with universal cross pan head machine screws. Designed for use with Cavity Wall Anchors.Metal Body.-For repetitive fixing applications.-Sturdy Construction.Finish: Zinc Plated.-Suitable for heavy duty fixing such as radiators, wall units and overhead applications.-Wide span wings spread the load for increased holding capacity.-Excellent holding power in lathe and plaster.-Quick and easy to use without the requirement for specialist fixing tools.-Suitable for use in most types of hollow walls, fibreboard, plasterboard and partitions.
Overview for Dressing Up a Hollow-Core Door SATURDAY Cut and install the panel frames (Steps 2–11).SUNDAY Hang the door and install the lockset (Step 12-13). Download and print the cut list. Cut List for Dressing Up a Hollow-Core Door: 1⅛-by-1¾-inch poplar nose-and-cove molding for the rails: eight @ 8 inches 1⅛-by-1¾-inch poplar nose-and-cove molding for the top stiles: four @ 28 inches 1⅛-by-1¾-inch poplar nose-and-cove molding for the bottom stiles: four @ 18 inches Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the hinge pins, and remove the door from the jamb. Set the door on your work surface, unscrew the hinges, and pop out the lockset. We opted for a traditional four-panel look using heavy nose-and-cove molding that complements the built-up door casing. (See note on proportions, below.) Use a combination square to mark the outside stiles of your panel frames along the stiles of the door, as shown. Note on proportions: A typical interior four-panel door has three equivalent stiles with a matching top rail and a deeper base rail.
Mock up simple patterns cut from cardboard to see what size panels will look best on your door. Use a framing square to draw perpendicular lines for all the rails. Now your door is marked with three of the four sides of each panel frame. You'll fit the fourth side—the inside stile—between the other three. Take the measurement of the rails from your door layout, and add 1 inch to account for the miter. With your miter saw set at 0 degrees, straight-cut eight blanks to that length from your molding stock. Set the blade on the miter saw to 45 degrees to cut the left inside miters. Make your cuts, as shown. You'll want to set up a stop block to make all your like pieces identical. Place one of the blanks on your door layout, and mark where the right inside miter should be cut. Make that cut and double check it against the pattern. Now you can use it to position the stop block. Clamp a piece of scrap wood to the miter saw's fence. Set the blade to a right inside 45-degree angle, and cut one end of the scrap, as shown.
Clamp the Stop Block Set the template against the scrap piece and match up the right-hand miters. Then clamp a block to the scrap at the left tip of the template, as shown. Make the Right Inside Miter Cut Set a blank in your miter saw with the left miter against the stop block and cut the right inside miter. Repeat the process on the remaining rail blanks. Then repeat all of Steps 3 and 4 to make the stiles. Lay Out the Pieces Dry-fit all the pieces on your pattern to make sure the corners are tight and the frames are even. Begin installing the molding, one frame at a time, starting with the outside stile. Install the two rails next, then the inside stile. Apply wood glue to the back of each piece, as shown, and press it in place. Use a pneumatic nail gun to tack each piece in place, shooting nails in at opposing angles every 2 or 3 inches. Make sure you have good contact between the door and the molding. Repeat the process on the other three frames. Check the Miter Joints
If any miter joints have gaps, use your finger to apply wood putty, as shown. Fill visible nail holes, too. Once the putty has dried, use a piece of 120-grit sandpaper to smooth any sharp edges or excess putty. Paint the molding and the door with a latex primer and a finish paint, and let dry. We upgraded to a lever handle more in keeping with the look of a four-panel door, but its latch required a larger mortise. Trace the outline of the new plate on the edge of the door. Use a rounded chisel and a mallet to cut a mortise, as shown. Screw the hinges back onto the door. Stand the door in the jamb and pin the hinges to rehang it. Tip: for a clean, rounded mortise, use a ⅜-inch drill bit to make a hole ⅛ inch deep at each corner before chiseling out the rest of the field for the latch plate. Place the handle assembly through the face bore, aligning the spindle with the opening in the latch mechanism, as shown. Fit the handle in place on the opposite side, and use a screwdriver to hand tighten the screws on the escutcheon plate.