Hair

Hair

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The Andre Walker Hair Typing System is the most widely used system to classify hair. The system was created by the hairstylist of Oprah Winfrey, Andre Walker. According to this system there are four types of hair: straight, wavy, curly, kinky.


  • Type 1 is straight hair, which reflects the most sheen and also the most resilient hair of all of the hair types. It is hard to damage and immensely difficult to curl this hair texture. Because the sebum easily spreads from the scalp to the ends without curls or kinks to interrupt its path, it is the most oily hair texture of all.

  • Type 2 is wavy hair, whose texture and sheen ranges somewhere between straight and curly hair. Wavy hair is also more likely to become frizzy than straight hair. While type A waves can easily alternate between straight and curly styles, type B and C Wavy hair is resistant to styling.

  • Type 3 is curly hair known to have an S-shape. The curl pattern may resemble a lowercase "s", uppercase "S", or sometimes an uppercase "Z" or lowercase "z".[citation needed] This hair type is usually voluminous, "climate dependent (humidity = frizz), and damage-prone."[citation needed] Lack of proper care causes less defined curls.

  • Type 4 is kinky hair, which features a tightly coiled curl pattern (or no discernible curl pattern at all) that is often fragile with a very high density. This type of hair shrinks when wet and because it has fewer cuticle layers than other hair types it is more susceptible to damage.


Andre Walker hair types


Type 1: Straight


1a

Straight (Fine/Thin) 

Hair tends to be very soft, thin, shiny, oily, poor at holding curls, difficult to damage.


1b

Straight (Medium)

Hair characterized by volume and body.


1c

Straight (Coarse)

Hair tends to be bone-straight, coarse, difficult to curl.


Type 2: Wavy


2a

Wavy (Fine/Thin)

Hair has definite "S" pattern, can easily be straightened or curled, usually receptive to a variety of styles.


2b

Wavy (Medium)

Can tend to be frizzy and a little resistant to styling.


2c

Wavy (Coarse)

Fairly coarse, frizzy or very frizzy with thicker waves, often more resistant to styling.


Type 3: Curly


3a

Curly (Loose)

Presents a definite "S" pattern, tends to combine thickness, volume, and/or frizziness.


3b

Curly (Tight)

Presents a definite "S" pattern, curls ranging from spirals to spiral-shaped corkscrew


Type 4: Kinky


4a

Kinky (Soft)

Hair tends to be very wiry and fragile, tightly coiled and can feature curly patterning.


4b

Kinky (Wiry)

As 4a but with less defined pattern of curls, looks more like a "Z" with sharp angles


FIA system

This is a method which classifies the hair by curl pattern, hair-strand thickness and overall hair volume.



FIA hair classification


Curliness




Straight


1a

Stick-straight.


1b

Straight but with a slight body wave adding some volume.


1c

Straight with body wave and one or two visible S-waves (e.g. at nape of neck or temples).


Wavy


2a

Loose with stretched S-waves throughout.


2b

Shorter with more distinct S-waves (resembling e.g. braided damp hair).


2c

Distinct S-waves, some spiral curling.


Curly


3a

Big, loose spiral curls.


3b

Bouncy ringlets.


3c

Tight corkscrews.


Very ("Really") curly


4a

Tightly coiled S-curls.


4b

Z-patterned (tightly coiled, sharply angled)


4c

Mostly Z-patterned (tightly kinked, less definition)


Strands




F

Fine

Thin strands that sometimes are almost translucent when held up to the light. Shed strands can be hard to see even against a contrasting background.


Fine hair is difficult to feel or it feels like an ultra-fine strand of silk.




M

Medium

Strands are neither fine nor coarse. Medium hair feels like a cotton thread, but isn't stiff or rough.


It is neither fine nor coarse.




C

Coarse

Thick strands whose shed strands usually are easily identified. Coarse hair feels hard and wiry.



Volume
by circumference of full-hair ponytail


i

Thin
circumference less than 2 inches (5 centimetres)


ii

Normal
... from 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 centimetres)


iii

Thick
... more than 4 inches (10 centimetres)

Functions

Many mammals have fur and other hairs that serve different functions. Hair provides thermal regulation and camouflage for many animals; for others it provides signals to other animals such as warnings, mating, or other communicative displays; and for some animals hair provides defensive functions and, rarely, even offensive protection. Hair also has a sensory function, extending the sense of touch beyond the surface of the skin. Guard hairs give warnings that may trigger a recoiling reaction.


Warmth


Polar bears use their fur for warmth and while their skin is black, their transparent fur appears white and provides camouflage while hunting and serves as protection by hiding cubs in the snow.

While humans have developed clothing and other means of keeping warm, the hair found on the head serves primarily as a source of heat insulation and cooling (when sweat evaporates from soaked hair) as well as protection from ultra-violet radiation exposure. The function of hair in other locations is debated. Hats and coats are still required while doing outdoor activities in cold weather to prevent frostbite and hypothermia, but the hair on the human body does help to keep the internal temperature regulated. When the body is too cold, the arrector pili muscles found attached to hair follicles stand up, causing the hair in these follicles to do the same. These hairs then form a heat-trapping layer above the epidermis. This process is formally called piloerection, derived from the Latin words 'pilus' ('hair') and 'erectio' ('rising up'), but is more commonly known as 'having goose bumps' in English.[12] This is more effective in other mammals whose fur fluffs up to create air pockets between hairs that insulate the body from the cold. The opposite actions occur when the body is too warm; the arrector muscles make the hair lie flat on the skin which allows heat to leave.


Protection


In some mammals, such as hedgehogs and porcupines, the hairs have been modified into hard spines or quills. These are covered with thick plates of keratin and serve as protection against predators. Thick hair such as that of the lion's mane and grizzly bear's fur do offer some protection from physical damages such as bites and scratches.


Touch sense


Displacement and vibration of hair shafts are detected by hair follicle nerve receptors and nerve receptors within the skin. Hairs can sense movements of air as well as touch by physical objects and they provide sensory awareness of the presence of ectoparasites.[13] Some hairs, such as eyelashes, are especially sensitive to the presence of potentially harmful matter.[14][15][16][17]


Eyebrows and eyelashes


Eyelashes and eyebrows help to protect the eyes from dust, dirt, and sweat.

The eyebrows provide moderate protection to the eyes from dirt, sweat and rain. They also play a key role in non-verbal communication by displaying emotions such as sadness, anger, surprise and excitement. In many other mammals, they contain much longer, whisker-like hairs that act as tactile sensors.

The eyelash grows at the edges of the eyelid and protects the eye from dirt. The eyelash is to humans, camels, horses, ostriches etc., what whiskers are to cats; they are used to sense when dirt, dust, or any other potentially harmful object is too close to the eye.[18] The eye reflexively closes as a result of this sensation.


Evolution

Hair has its origins in the common ancestor of mammals, the synapsids, about 300 million years ago. It is currently unknown at what stage the synapsids acquired mammalian characteristics such as body hair and mammary glands, as the fossils only rarely provide direct evidence for soft tissues. Skin impression of the belly and lower tail of a pelycosaur, possibly Haptodus shows the basal synapsid stock bore transverse rows of rectangular scutes, similar to those of a modern crocodile.[19] An exceptionally well-preserved skull of Estemmenosuchus, a therapsid from the Upper Permian, shows smooth, hairless skin with what appears to be glandular depressions,[20] though as a semi-aquatic species it might not have been particularly useful to determine the integument of terrestrial species. The oldest undisputed known fossils showing unambiguous imprints of hair are the Callovian (late middle Jurassic) Castorocauda and several contemporary haramiyidans, both near-mammal cynodonts.[21][22][23] More recently, studies on terminal Permian Russian coprolites may suggest that non-mammalian synapsids from that era had fur.[24] If this is the case, these are the oldest hair remnants known, showcasing that fur occurred as far back as the latest Paleozoic.

Some modern mammals have a special gland in front of each orbit used to preen the fur, called the harderian gland. Imprints of this structure are found in the skull of the small early mammals like Morganucodon, but not in their cynodont ancestors like Thrinaxodon.[25]

The hairs of the fur in modern animals are all connected to nerves, and so the fur also serves as a transmitter for sensory input. Fur could have evolved from sensory hair (whiskers). The signals from this sensory apparatus is interpreted in the neocortex, a chapter of the brain that expanded markedly in animals like Morganucodon and Hadrocodium.[26] The more advanced therapsids could have had a combination of naked skin, whiskers, and scutes. A full pelage likely did not evolve until the therapsid-mammal transition.[27] The more advanced, smaller therapsids could have had a combination of hair and scutes, a combination still found in some modern mammals, such as rodents and the opossum.[28]

The high interspecific variability of the size, color, and microstructure of hair often enables the identification of species based on single hair filaments.[29][30]


Naked mole-rat (Heterocephalus glaber) in a zoo.

In varying degrees most mammals have some skin areas without natural hair. On the human body, glabrous skin is found on the ventral portion of the fingers, palms, soles of feet and lips, which are all parts of the body most closely associated with interacting with the world around us,[31] as are the labia minora and glans penis.[32] There are four main types of mechanoreceptors in the glabrous skin of humans: Pacinian corpuscles, Meissner's corpuscles, Merkel's discs, and Ruffini corpuscles.

The naked mole-rat (Heterocephalus glaber) has evolved skin lacking in general, pelagic hair covering, yet has retained long, very sparsely scattered tactile hairs over its body.[31] Glabrousness is a trait that may be associated with neoteny.[33]


Human hairlessness

The general hairlessness of humans in comparison to related species may be due to loss of functionality in the pseudogene KRTHAP1 (which helps produce keratin) in the human lineage about 240,000 years ago.[34] On an individual basis, mutations in the gene HR can lead to complete hair loss, though this is not typical in humans.[35] Humans may also lose their hair as a result of hormonal imbalance due to drugs or pregnancy.[36]



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