Do It Yourself Screen and Glass HomeDo It Yourself Screen and Glass You can Do It Yourself with parts from Mobile Screen and Glass Learn how to Measure and Replace a Sliding Screen Door If your sliding screen door is sticking, there is an easy solution a phone call away from the pro screen team at Mobile Screen and Glass. Watch our video to see just how easy it is for one of our technicians to Adjust and Replace a Sliding Screen Door My windows are leaking! The rains bring in the yearly calls about leaking windows. The biggest cause of window and roof leakage stems from the drought we have been experiencing. The extreme lack of moisture will test any type of perimeter seal, whether it is weather-stripping, caulking or the best designed drainage systems. If you hit those seals with a driving rain, you can bet there will be a leak somewhere. Here is a quick check list we use to help find and stop leaks before assuming a major construction or installation flaw.
Water damage above and on the sides of a window: Water is coming from above the window. Check the seal at the top of the window and where the glass meets the window frame. The roof should be checked for cracks especially when parapets are concerned. A water test may be necessary, starting with the window, in order to rule out possible penetration areas. Water damage below the window: Water is draining through the bottom of the window. The first place to check is the weep holes. Most people don’t realize that windows are designed to leak and then drain through weep holes. They are hidden very well in the most brands but they are there. Drought conditions caused them to fill with dust and dirt and then won’t allow the bottom track to drain properly when hit with rain. The test is very simple to perform to verify your windows are draining properly. Find your weep holes. Remove the screen and open the sliding portion of the window. With light pressure from a garden hose, fill the track with water.
You should see water draining through the weep holes to the outside or you will see they need to be cleaned. If the leaking problem continues, check all seal joints where the window meets the exterior surfaces of the wall. A common sense approach will usually locate the leak. Sometimes in understanding that the window was designed to hold out only so much water at one time will tell you to take extra measures when dealing with the powerful storms that come with our monsoon season. The most expensive, energy-efficient windows on the market all have air and water testing ratings. It is common for people to remark how terrible their window is because the curtains will move on windy days. Their window may be of poor quality, however the moving curtain may actually be more of an indication as to how windy it is outside as all qualities of windows will allow some air infiltration. Free In Home Estimates “The estimator (owner) was on time, very professional and organized.” “They finished the job in about 45 minutes and that's including going both inside and outside to adjust, caulk etc...”
“Dealing with Chelsea in their office was nothing but completely pleasant and would not hesitate to recommend them to my friends and family.” Yelp users haven’t asked any questions yet about The Glass Guru of Austin.• Check that your shower alcove is framed properly and in good condition. Walls should be square in both corners, and plumb all the way around. Use a level to confirm this. Measure the width and depth of your alcove, and make sure the dimensions are correct for the shower you’re putting in. • Check the entire subfloor with a level. You need to start with a level surface or your shower will not drain properly. As long as it’s close, you’ll be able to finish leveling the shower pan at installation. • Rough in the drain line so the opening of the drainpipe will line up with the drain on your shower base. The top of the drain line needs to be even with the subfloor. You’ll also need to rough in the plumbing for the showerhead and control valve on one of the side walls.
• Dry fit your shower enclosure to make sure it’s sized properly for your space. Carefully place the shower base into the alcove. Use a level to make sure it’s even on all sides, and add shims if necessary to level it out. Place a piece of cardboard in the shower base to protect the finish. • Along the studs, mark the top edge of the base on all three sides. Now, dry fit the enclosure. Put the back shower wall in position, locking the bottom tabs into the base. Use tape to hold up the panel until you can insert the side wall. Make sure it locks firmly in place. • Before dry fitting the remaining wall, you’ll first need to cut holes for the plumbing. • Measure the distance from the edge of the back panel to the center of the valve. Then measure the distance to the top of the base. Transfer those marks to the plumbing wall and drill a pilot hole as a guide. • A flat surface will help stabilize the wall while you’re cutting. Use a hole saw to drill holes through the fiberglass or acrylic surface.
For a cleaner cut, drill from the inside out, making sure the cover plate will be large enough to cover the hole. Now, dry fit the plumbing wall to make sure it lines up properly. • The flange is the part of the enclosure on the top and sides that will be attached to the studs. You’ll want to make sure the enclosure is level, so before removing the panels, check the shower walls with the level. • Once you’ve confirmed it is level, make a reference mark on the studs at the top of the flange all the way around. Take out each of the panels and set them aside. Mark the location for any shims, and then remove the base of the shower. • To make leveling easier and provide additional reinforcement, place 3 or 4 mounds of gypsum plaster or bricklayer’s mortar on any low spots in the subfloor. • Carefully set the shower base into the alcove over top of the drain. Check that it’s level and everything lines up properly on the marks. • Apply silicone caulk, first to the gap inside where the shower pan meets the drain, and around the lip on the underside of the drain flange.
Screw it onto the drain and then tighten it down completely. With the flange installed, attach the strainer to the drain with screws. • To secure the shower base, drill pilot holes in the flange all the way around on each of the studs. Now, secure the shower base to the studs using roofing nails. With the base installed, place the cardboard back on the bottom for protection. • Before putting in the back and side panels, consider adding insulation. This will help deaden any noise made by the plumbing and insulate the outside walls from the cold. • With the insulation installed, place the back shower wall against the studs and lower it down onto the base. • Some units, like the one we used, have locking tabs that fit into slots in the base. Insert the side panel by placing it up against the back panel and sliding it down into place. The locking tabs should fit into the slots, both in the base and the back panel. To attach the enclosure to the studs, use a 3/8-inch bit to drill pilot holes through the flange.
Do this on the vertical side flange, 8 inches on center. Then go across the top at each of the studs. Fasten the enclosure at each stud with 1 ½-inch self-tapping washer head screws or galvanized roofing nails. • With the other two walls in position, it’s time to set the plumbing wall in place. Make sure any locking tabs on the wall fit into their appropriate slots, and the drilled holes line up properly for the plumbing fixtures. • Pre-drill the flange along the top at each of the studs, and then down the side 8 inches on center. Use 1 ½-inch self-tapping washer head screws or galvanized roofing nails to fasten the enclosure at each stud. • To avoid moisture problems and preserve the integrity of your new unit, it’s extremely important to make sure your new shower enclosure is sealed properly. Since enclosures may vary, check your manufacturer’s instructions to see what type of sealing is required for your particular unit. • This one has interlocking panels and built-in weep channels that will direct the water, so no caulking is needed.