Home / Customer Service / Shop Internationally Planning a visit to the United States? Or have friends and family in the U.S.? Shop at Sears to get everything you want—including great gifts for yourself or others. You'll be happy to see how online shopping in the U.S. couldn't be easier. Simply use an international credit card. shop Sears U.S. now Free U.S. Store Pickup Order something online but need a little help picking it up? You (or someone you know) can pay and pick up online orders at a Sears store. find a Sears store | U.S. Shipping & Delivery Looking to keep it simple? Get your order shipped or delivered to any address in the United States—including hotels. Get a little help from friends and family to get what you want—simply have your order delivered right to them. Did you know Sears ships to over 100 countries? Take advantage of this major convenience and get whatever you wish, shipped to wherever you want.
Shop in Puerto Rico Now it's easier than ever to shop at Sears in Puerto Rico and the Caribbean. Whether you're living there or just visiting, you can pick up your order or have it shipped to you. shop Sears Puerto Rico If you are planning to visit the United States, or have friends and family here, shop at Sears to get everything you want—including gifts for yourself or others. Shopping online in the U.S. at Sears could not be easier. You can pay for your order in a store or even use an international credit card. Once you place an order, you (or someone you know) can pick it up at a Sears store, have it shipped to over 100 countries—whatever is most convenient for you. A warm, well-insulated garage will provide you usable workspace all year round, even when the outside temperatures drop to frightening lows. But even if you're not planning to spend much time in the shop this winter, there's still good reason to winterize your garage: you could save yourself money and hassle later.
A garage that gets too cold can damage not only to your car but also to the equipment you're storing there. "Water will freeze, no matter where it is. So if you have a power washer that still has water in the pump or lines, it can freeze and crack," says Joe Sainz, application specialist for Robert Bosch Tool Corp. The same is true of fuel gels, which can "gel up" (freeze) inside combustion engines, and even paint, which will separate and ruin if allowed to freeze, Sainz says.Winterize your garage as early as possible.Weatherstripping creates a seal between the garage door and garage door opening. ".If you feel air seeping into the garage, Witek says, remove the existing weatherstripping and scrape off any remaining sealant. "A pry bar and flat scraper or putty knife will make the process much easier," he says. The cleaner and smoother you can make the surface, the easier it will be to install the new weatherstripping, and the better it will seal.Once the old weather stripping is removed, you can begin measuring to apply the new one.
To align the weatherstripping, Witek says you'll need to close the garage door and then align the weather stripping so that the rubber flap flattens slightly against the door. "This will ensure a good seal and easy operation of the garage door," he says.However, while it's not hard to purchase fiberglass batt insulation, installing it correctly is another story, Sainz says. "mon mistakes include failure to securely fasten the batt insulation, not supporting it, or cutting it too long or short for the location. "Insulation needs to have a snug fit, but it can't be jammed in too tightly," he says.Witek says there is a variety of products available to insulate garage doors, including specifically designed kits. "Insulation options include foam board, reflective barriers, and fiberglass batt insulation," he says.Regardless which option you choose, Witek says the insulation will need to be cut to fill the garage door panels, then secured with adhesive to make sure it stays put. "Some garage doors will not have recessed panels that make for an easy insulation project," he says.
Struggling to insulate the door, or still feeling the cold even after putting it in? In some cases, Witek says, the best option may be to replace the door with a modern, insulated design.Weatherstripping and insulation will help to protect your garage from extreme winter weather, but on their own, they're not going to keep the garage toasty warm for you. Unit heaters are a great way to heat a garage with minimal space requirements and construction costs, Witek says.First, choose between a gas or electric heater. Gas-fired units are usually cheaper to operate but are more difficult to install because they require a gas supply and exhaust venting, Witek says. "And electric models are easier to install, but are more costly to operate than gas-fired models." This makes electric unit heaters a great option in areas with mild winters or where you only need heat occasionally, he says.Another, more efficient electric option worth considering is a mini-split heat pump. "This type of unit will provide efficient year-round heating and cooling to the garage with only a 3-inch hole through an exterior wall required for installation," Witek says.
If you can't afford or don't have time to do every one of these things before winter, start with one. When it comes to winterizing your garage, every little bit helps.On the off chance that you need to keep the warmth in your Garage this winter or hold the cooled air next summer, you’ll need to accomplish more than simply introduce a protected entryway. The vast majority of the molded air escapes around and through all the breaks. Here are four basic approaches to sealing your garage door however much as could be expected. You can do the entire employment in an evening for as meager as $100, contingent upon the extent of the entryway. Begin by measuring the width, stature and thickness of your garage door. You’ll require those estimations to purchase garage door stop with an inherent fixing lip and another base seal. While you’re at the home focus, purchase V-strip climate stripping, a container of outside caulk and a little jar of wood sealer (on the off chance that you have a wooden or carriage garage door).
Also, for additional fixing force, purchase an elastic limit (one decision is the Storm Shield Garage Door Threshold; about $53 for ten ft. 6 in.). Some garage door won t close all the way and accompanies a metal track that holds a replaceable elastic seal. After some time, the seal levels and breaks. If that is the thing that you have, supplant it with a “chilly climate” silicone-sort seal, which stays adaptable in icy climate and keeps going longer. On the off chance that your home focus doesn’t stock them, you can discover one online; see one source above. Grease up the silicone seal with dishwashing cleanser and slide it into the track spaces. Lift the entryway simply enough that the garage door track doesn’t impede the climate seal, then slide out the old elastic knob (Photo 1). You may need to pry the track closes open with a level screwdriver on the off chance that they’ve been created. On the off chance that it’s particularly obstinate, cut it and expel it in pieces.
Clean the doorlink garage doors entryway base, then slice the new elastic seal to length with a razor blade. String the T-molded edges into the climate seal track, then slide the seal over the garage door. Be quiet—it takes a great deal of pushing and pulling even with a partner. On the off chance that you have a wooden garage door, rip off the nailed elastic seal. At that point seal the wood with wood sealer. While the sealer dries, set up the new aluminum track by slicing it to length and scoring the finishes so it fits around the base roller. Next, set out a thick globule of caulk along the main edge of the entryway and connect the garage door track setup. Set up the territories between the garage door segments by cleaning them with a cloth and family unit cleaner (be mindful so as not to squeeze any fingers). At that point introduce the weight touchy V-strip climate stripping. Rehash for every segment. Remove the old garage door seal Presently proceed onward to the edge.
Begin by cleaning the solid with degreaser and water. Wash and let dry. At that point roll the edge into the spot with the mound within the garage door entryway and slice to the width of the opening. Delicately shut the garage door onto the limit and square up the mound to meet the garage door seal. Mark the edge of the edge on the floor at every end and snap a chalk line along your imprints. Next, paste the edge into the spot. Close the garage door solidly against the edge and abandon it shut until the cement dries. Pry off the old Garage door stop and put in new door stop that has a fixing lip. Wood garage door jambs and trim regularly decay close to the base or get crunched by guards. A decent, durable arrangement is to supplant the wood support, block mold trim and door stop with paintable strong vinyl pieces that won’t split or rot. Accessible at home focuses and lumberyards, the three pieces cost an aggregate of about $4 per ft.— equivalent to clear wood. The vinyl can be cut, nailed and painted simply like wood.
It’s accessible in white, yet you can arrange cocoa, bronze, and tan. Fill nail openings with white caulk or outside wood filler, then if wanted prime and paint with acrylic latex. Utilize a light paint shading over white vinyl to keep it from overheating. Evacuate the old support and trim, then nail the vinyl pillar to the edge, starting with the top piece. Affix each 12 to 16 in. With 8d aroused nails or stainless steel trim screws. Precut the miters on the top bit of block mold trim and nail it to the surrounding each 12 in. With 10d aroused packaging nails. Utilize 6d packaging nails for the quit forming, nailing it at the premarked focuses on the trim. If the temperature is 40 degrees F amid establishment, predrill nail gaps and leave a 1/8-in. Hole at the closures of the pillar for development. Paste the block mold corners with PVC concrete, then nail them into the spot after the paste sets. To abstain from breaking the joint, sit tight no less than an hour for the past to completely cure before nailing inside a foot of the corner.