Garage Door Repairs & Parts We offer same-day services for your garage doors and garage door openers. Our fully trained and licensed staff repair all door and opener brands, and we can fix common problems on the spot so you don’t have to wait, We service the following areas: Markham, Richmond Hill, Thornhill, Newmarket, Unionville, Aurora, Maple, Vaughn, Pickering, Whitby, Stouffville, north York, Scarborough. Services for Garage Door Openers: We can repair your old Garage Door Opener We can offer a variety of new Garage Door Openers We can install your new Garage Door Opener We can install an opener that you have purchased We can set up your opener to be monitored and controlled on the internet using your smartphone, PC or tablet. We offer a wide variety of garage door and garage door opener parts. You can handle the installation yourself, or one of our trained technicians can take care of the job for you. Parts that we can supply and install include:
Remote controls for most opener brands Gear and sprocket kits Springs, rollers, hinges, and other standard door parts We are confident that whatever the problem is, we can fix or replace it at a great price and with great service. First Class Garage Doors is: First in Garage Doors First in Customer Satisfaction! Door & Opener Parts | Common Problems with Garage Door & Garage Door Openers: Garage Doors: Rollers damaged or popped out Problems with weather sealing Bottom rubber seal issues Doors that won’t open Dented or damaged panels that need replacing Broken chain or belt Remotes or keypads not working Openers that won't go up or down Book your service call today!You don't have permission to access /garage-door-troubleshooting Additionally, a 403 Forbidden > > Wayne Dalton Garage Door Parts Wayne Dalton's Original Torquemaster system, pictured above, also called the Torquemaster One system, used special hardware compatable with Wayne Dalton's Torquemaster torsion springs.
The Original Torquemaster system pictured above was used with two Torquemaster torsion springs. From left to right, the parts included: left winding bracket, left counter, counter gear, drive gear, left cable drum, left winding cone, support bracket, right winding cone, right cable drum, drive gear, winding gear, right counter, and right winding bracket. As of 2012 Wayne Dalton stopped making many of the original Torquemaster One parts. The cable drums were replaced with the new drums that are backward compatible. Earlier springs had .721" inside diameters and the plastic cones for these are no longer made. If you are ordering new springs, the new steel cones will come installed in the ends of the springs; you do not need to order cones with your new springs. If you need a cone that is not on the list below, you will need to install a new spring with the .65" inside diameter and the steel winding cones. You cannot replace the plastic cones for .721" ID springs with with the steel cones for .65" ID springs;
We are removing the plastic cones from our list below as inventories diminish. Counter wheels and counter gears have also been discontinued. If those are the only broken parts on your spring system, you can roll a piece of paper or cardboard and insert it into the end of your spring cone to count the number of turns as you wind the spring. In 2013 the factory ceased production of the Torquemaster I winding brackets and winding gears. Before purchasing replacement springs for the Torquemaster I system pictured above, check your winding brackets and your gears to make sure they are not stripped. If one of them is damaged, you will need to convert to a Torquemaster Plus system with new cable drums, cables and winding brackets pictured below. Instructions for replacing Torquemaster Plus springs are at Wayne Dalton's web site. You'll also need to replace the flagangles, or flag brackets as they are more commonly called in the door industry. These are designed to accommodate the Torquemaster Plus Type II winders.
Wayne Dalton makes two types of flagangles. The top bracket pictured above, our part number WD-FLGS, secures the tracks with screws. The bottom bracket above secures the tracks by twisting the flagangle tabs inside the tracks. This is our part number WD-FLGT. These parts, as well as kits for converting from Torquemaster One to Torquemaster Plus systems are available below. The cable drums pictured above replace the original cable drums that were designed by Wayne Dalton for the Original Torquemaster system. They work on both systems. The original drums had cable saftey covers, but these covers have since been obsoleted. Wayne Dalton also introduced the Torquemaster Plus system pictured above; it is also called the Torquemaster II system. The .721" ID oil tempered springs were replaced with .65" ID music wire springs. This system uses cable drums that are compatable with the Original Torquemaster system as well as the same bracket, but it uses fewer parts overall. The Torquemaster II system parts include, from left to right: winding bracket, left cable drum, left winding cone, support bracket, right winding cone, right cable drum, and right winding bracket.
One noticable difference in the Torquemaster systems is the winding cones. The Original Torquemaster system uses raised grooves on the cone to connect to the winding unit, while the Torquemaster Plus system has divits in the cone to accomplish the same purpose. Notice also that the ends of the Torquemaster I winding cones are round, and that the ends of the Torquemaster II winding cones are hexagonal. In addition to the differences in the design to the cones would also be the types of springs used on these systems. For more details on the springs for a Wayne Dalton Torquemaster system, check out our Wayne Dalton Torquemaster Springs page. UN: Units by which each part is sold Price: Cost per unit (for smaller quantities)Garage Door Opener Hot to RickWakeman capecoddahjoin:2005-03-18Yarmouth Port, MA to RickWakemanYou have the electrical advice. Gear has worn out on my unit ~35 years old.2 (?) gears, $8. Gear, worm gear and clips I'll probably lose, $14.Parts are in the mail someplace.
I have to open the door manually like some third-worlder! to RickWakemanIf you're handy, replacing the gears isnt a big deal. But I would look into why they stripped to begin with. You said you had replaced the springs earlier. Could be the tension wasnt set correctly, or that the gears stripped out then but continued working until now, or that your springs are ready to die once again. The gears on my opener stripped about 6 months before one of the door springs snapped.Use the opener quick release and see if the door is balanced for easy opening.Of course, sometimes you just want a new gadget like an internet connected garage door RickWakemanjoin:2013-06-23Springfield, MA to printscreensaid by printscreen:How old is your opener? Just thinking that if it is very old you should consider replacing it because it may not have the safety features that modern openers have like autoreverse if someone or something gets in the way while the door is closing and more secure remote controls that are immune to someone cloning your signal.
And if you are into that, some can be operated remotely from your cell phone and you can see the door status remotely too.The opener came with the house, so I am not sure of the age. The chain appears to have a lot of slack.I have an outlet tester but I won't have time to troubleshoot this for at least a week. I will post back when I have done some more troubleshooting. I appreciate the advice. to RickWakeman garys_2kPremium Memberjoin:2004-05-07Farmington, MI61.0 5.9· said by WB6PWJ:It is common in electric devices to use two capacitors from the lines to ground. An ungrounded unit will show half line voltage at very low current. This goes away when the unit is properly grounded.What devices do that, connect a capacitor from each line terminal to ground? to RickWakemanUPDATE:Parts arrived in the mail today from 365garagedoorparts.net in Connecticut.Easy fix, only bear was the drift-pin. Maybe an hour but I dropped a screwdriver on my bin of screws... I needed a reason to get the boat decks outside anyway.
I didn't change the worm gear because it was in pretty good shape. After some thought it makes sense to manufacture the worm with better material than it's mate. Probably a 'standard' Nylon for what I replaced. The old one got "dusted" after years and probably incorrect settings. A little lube here and there, reset limit switches and good to go for another ~30 years. to dmagerlsaid by dmagerl:If you're handy, replacing the gears isnt a big deal. But I would look into why they stripped to begin with.Certainly worn out springs contribute, but those nylon gears do get brittle over time, the grease dries up and eventually the teeth shear off. Pretty common after 10-15 years. I replaced mine for about $20 in gear parts as well, and they looked just like the picture above. to RickWakeman Jack in VAPremium Memberjoin:2014-07-07North, VA13.4 3.11 edit said by walta:Unless you are able to locate and repair leakage current, it is a waste of time and money putting gears in that death machine you call a door opener.
WaltaReally now isn't that a little lot too strong? to RickWakemanRe: [Doors] Garage Door Opener Hotsaid by RickWakeman:How do I track this problem down.First step would be to buy an outlet tester to eliminate that as the cause of the trouble. to waltaRe: [Doors] Re: Garage Door Opener Hotsaid by walta:Your door operator should be connected to a GFIC circuit. The GFIC should detect any leakage current and disconnect it before anyone could get injured.GFCI for garage door receptacles were not required until recent code changes and even now some people interpret the code is not requiring them for garage door openers. A properly installed garage door opener with a grounded receptacle is not dangerous. A GFCI only helps when everything else fails. If he corrects the grounding problem there is no need to add one to the circuit. to RickWakemanRe: [Doors] Garage Door Opener Hot RickWakemanjoin:2013-06-23Springfield, MA said by garys_2k:This opener IS plugged into a three-prong outlet, right?
That means no two prong extension cords in the line, no three-to-two prong adapters, too.Definitely no extension cord. There is a ceiling mounted outlet, and it has three prongs. waltajoin:2001-05-22Saint Louis, MO1 edit to Jack in VARe: [Doors] Re: Garage Door Opener Hotsaid by Jack in VA:said by walta:Unless you are able to locate and repair leakage current, it is a waste of time and money putting gears in that death machine you call a door opener. WaltaReally now isn't that a little lot too strong?I do not feel Rick understands how dangerous this door operator could be!Rick said touching the operator gives him a shock! Since the operator carriage moves on a metal bar that bar that could shock someone. The bar is connected to the door with a metal arm bar that could shock someone. If the door is made of metal it could shock someone. If the neighbor kids ball rolls by the door and the child touches the door and the child is killed would my warning be too strong, if the girl was your child?
Rick may be a big strong guy wearing rubber shoes and can take a shock but his barefoot 5 year old neighbor girl may not be so lucky.If you cannot make it safe unplug the thing before someone gets hurt or worse. garys_2kPremium Memberjoin:2004-05-07Farmington, MI61.0 5.9· said by walta:I do not feel Gary understands how dangerous this door operator could be!I do understand it, nowhere did I say it was acceptable. Earlier I'd written:said by garys_2k:TL/DR: Fix the outlet ground and get a new opener.Or were you referring to some other Gary? printscreenjoin:2003-11-01Juana Diaz, PR11.8 0.6 I will quote myself on the message I posted very early in this thread as a reminder of a similar situation I had at home.said by printscreen:Careful with hot devices. Many years ago I had a desk fan that I normally placed on the floor and I often touched it while barefoot and felt a tingle like that a few times. Then I had someone visit and touched the fan and also felt a tingle. Curious after seeing I was not making up things I put a voltmeter between the cage and a grounded place and found 120 volts!!!
I felt just a tingle because of the ceramic tile floor and only when I touched the cement grout between the tiles with my foot. There was a smaller voltage between the grout and the fan cage. Needless to say, the fan hit the trash immediately.Your garage door and opener could have 120 volts so be careful. to garys_2ksaid by garys_2k:said by WB6PWJ:It is common in electric devices to use two capacitors from the lines to ground. What devices do that, connect a capacitor from each line terminal to ground?Many devices that have a rectifier bridge directly on the AC line. TVs and motor controllers to it frequently - capacitors from both AC lines to the chassis.OP: a tingle can mean nothing or can mean serious trouble.A leakage current is allowed in virtually all devices, even double-insulated allow 0.25mA which can definitely tingle.For easy diagnostic measure the voltage between the apparent hot place and ground. If it is 0 you may very well have a hot ground. If it shows 120V (the same voltage as the AC line) you have a big problem.