Garage GFCI on door openers NEC 2008 Wisconsin Home Inspector License 1955-106 4-Square Home Inspections, LLC � Where Knowledge will put your Mind at Ease � BBB A+ Accredited Business Like Us on Facebook Follow Us on Linked-In Need a home inspection in Oklahoma? listing of Oklahoma certified home inspectors. find a home inspector anywhere in the world with our inspection Re: Garage GFCI on door openers NEC 2008 All 15 and 20 amp 120 volt receptacles in a garage require GFCI protection. In the 2008 NEC there are no exceptions. From the 2008 NEC: 210.8 Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel. FPN: See 215.9 for ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel on feeders.All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in (1) through ( shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel. (2) Garages, and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use
Originally Posted by gliebig This rule also applies to receptacles installed in basements for sump pumps. I wouldn't want my sump pumps to be GFCI protected. The NEC requires you to trust a $100K finished basement with a sump pump to be protected by a $15 GFCI device. B.A. King Home Inspections, LLC Serving Charlotte NC area and Rock Hill SC areas. CMI Certified Master Inspector and Independent License NC2449 and SC1597 "Discovery consists in seeing what everyone else has seen and thinking what no one else has thought." - Albert Szent-Gyvrgyi, Nobel Prize for Medicine 1937 Originally Posted by Robert MeierIsn't that a change from the 2005 code? Yes the 2005 has an exception for specific locations that didn't require GFCI protection. That exception was removed in the 2008. Since that change there have been many proposals to put back some of the exceptions, especially for sump pumps, but the CMP has rejected every one of them. Our local AHJ does not like this ruling either.
I agree with the 2008 NEC because of the location of a sump pit. I have even found legos in one pit area that was being used as a play room. Until they can find a better way this will probably not change. That being said all sump pumps shoulds have a warning system to alert of failure just like a fire alarm and people should now how to check the GFCI regularly. Originally Posted by kwood I've seen many single (dedicated) non GFCI Receptacles in the location for the sump pump. In theory, this would only allow the sump pump to be plugged in. Originally Posted by bking I really like this "work around", but it's even better to see the change in the NEC 2011 code reported by Jim Port. "We Respect Our Clients Right To Privacy" Jim Keilson Certified Master Inspector State of Maryland License# 31141 Maryland Home Inspectors In Gaithersburg, Rockville, Germantown, Bethesda, Potomac, Also All of Northern Virginia and Washington, D.C. Originally Posted by jkeilson
getting out of the car �The things that will destroy America are peace at any price, prosperity at any cost, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living, and the get-rich-quick theory of life.� Joe Funderburk, CBO, CMI Alpha & Omega Home Inspections, LLC Inspecting Upstate SC & Charlotte Metro, NC Angie's List Super Award Winner 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010. Originally Posted by jfunderburk If you read my original post, there is no service door to this detached garage and no windows. Kinda tough to do what you suggest in your post. there is no service door to this detached garageWho wants to roll up the door every time you need to enter the building?They are dedicated if there is nothing else plugged into them. There's a good chance the 240V outlet feeding the dryer is dedicated, if the breaker is labelled "dryer". If you have one 120V circuit labelled "garage", and when you flip the breaker all the garage outlets die but nothing else does, then you're OK.
A 40W lamp does not count - that's less than 0.5A on a 16A circuit. Just don't connect any heaters or electric wood chippers at the same time as the car.Any outdoor outlets are probably fed by a GFI breaker; all my outdoor outlets plus the bathroom outlets are on one breaker, so that's not "dedicated".You might want to run a new separate cable all the way to the breaker box, in which case you'd know it was dedicated. If you do that, run 240V 50A and get a SAE J1772 32A class 2 charger.Your control panel should be marked with what is on the circuit. The contractor that built your house would have (or should have) marked the circuits for you-they might say things like "kitchen" "AC" "bedroom", etc.I'm guessing because you are charging a car, you probably are going to use a 240V service.Basically, the car manufacturer is asking you to find a circuit in your home that has nothing on it that you can use only for your car. If the panel has a position labeled "garage" on it, and it is a 240V circuit, the garage would have lighting, a garage door opener, and the water heater attached to it.
The latter two are probably 240V, so that circuit is not likely a dedicated circuit, unless you make it that way by unplugging all your 240V sources.Since charging cars is a relatively recent thing, homes would not have come with a separate position for a charger-so the 240V circuit to the garage is not likely dedicated-it will have your garage door opener and water heater on it.If your control panel has some empty positions on it with no labeling, then those circuits are likely open for use-you can check with an electrican to see if those positions are available.. You might have to run a new circuit just for your car.It's extremely unlikely that you have one. Get one installed by a licensed electrician, the cost will be modest.< 1 2 345 > 3,881 posts, read 16,616,610 times 10,875 posts, read 35,773,059 times 673 posts, read 1,439,921 times 4,576 posts, read 7,149,793 times Originally Posted by Barking Spider It can be metal clad (mc) also on exterior exposed.
2,431 posts, read 4,724,447 times Originally Posted by Mike From NIU By code, only the Washer and Gas Dryer is allowed to be plugged into a dedicated 20 amp laundry circuit. While I'm sure you can get away with ignoring this rule, but I don't recommend it. 11,193 posts, read 10,665,183 times In a lot of instances the outlet that is at the washer/dryer may have a separate circuit feeding to each side of the outlet. So you may area day have two separate circuits. There is a small brass tab that gets broken on the hot side of the terminals. Isolating each set of prongs on the hot leg so each circuit controls half the outlet. May or may not share a neutral. Pull the outlet away from the box and look at the brass plate at the screws on the sides of the outlet. If the tab is broken you have either a switched outlet or two circuits feeding one outlet. Usually designed so you can run a washer and dryer on one outlet with two separate circuits. IF the dryer is 220 it uses a different outlet and if the 110v outlet is wired as two circuits you're good.
If it is one circuit yeah you CAN run both the freezer and appliance on one circuit but its not that hard or that expensive to run another circuit with the panel in the vicinity. Really maybe 2 hrs charge. 20,133 posts, read 44,361,524 times Originally Posted by TechGromit Care to back that up with a cite? Originally Posted by MrRationalAppliances are normally required (now) to be dedicated circuits. That's how I had to redo my rental. Microwave (never installed one) Bathroom outlets (gfi protected) one circuit All listed items were on dedicated circuits. I dint have the book in front of me but I can look it up Normally as a rule these appliances require dedicated circuits. On older homes its impossible to do so without major work and substantial cost which is why most older houses/homeowners simply don't do it. On newer houses its required. Heating and air conditioning units 9,621 posts, read 36,820,937 times Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum.