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Adhesive Gasketing Tested and Classified For Smoke And Fire Door & Window Rubber Weather Seal Foam Tape High Density Foam Tape Low Density Silicone Door Gasket Tested and Classified For Smoke Top And Side Garage Door Seal Shop Vac Replacement Filters Window Screen Hangers & Latches Kit All Purpose Canvas Work Gloves Chemical Resistant Work Gloves Durable Grain Cowhide Work Gloves Latex over Stretch Knit Work Gloves Pvc Comfortable Stretch Knit Work Gloves Suede Leather Palm Work Gloves BRANDS YOU CAN TRUST Look for these brands and more at your local Discount Builders Supply store. Lumber & Building MaterialsIf the look of your aluminum garage door has become dull and old, you may be considering ways to give it new life and a polished look without replacing it altogether. You can achieve this quite easily and cheaply with a simple coat of paint. The garage door needs to be totally clean before you begin preparing to paint.
In order to produce an excellent surface for the primer, the aluminum will have to be free of dirt and dust or else it will interfere with adhesion. Remove any loose particles with the firm-bristled brush, and use the warm soapy water to clean the door and scrub off any loose parts that chip away from the surface. Aluminum doesn’t oxidize, but the factory finish can deteriorate. It is always a good idea to not paint outside objects in extremely wet, cold, or hot conditions. Metals and alloys still expand in the hot air and retain heat, so the paint will not dry to the highest standard that you would expect. Therefore, when planning this project, try to aim for a string of mild, clear days to achieve the best results. To avoid having to hunch over as you work, start painting your door from the bottom up, beginning with the door halfway open so you only have to lower it to the ground to move upward. Obviously, once you can’t lower the door anymore, you will have to use a ladder to cover the rest.
You’ll also want to lay drop cloths on the ground below the edge of the door to prevent any wayward drips from falling onto your concrete. Once the door has been washed and dried you can begin painting on the priming coat. It is recommended that you thin oil-based primer just a little by mixing in solvent according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Leave the primer to set for at least 24 hours. You can also use a spray primer suitable for aluminum but make sure to mask off areas that you do not want painted. After the 24-hour drying time has lapsed, you can paint the topcoat on your garage door. An oil-based exterior paint is a good choice for going over an oil-based primer, but a 100 percent acrylic exterior paint can also be suitable. Use a large brush to cut down overall painting time. You can use a roller but they are much harder to clean if you use oil-based paint, so a brush is usually a better option. How you direct the brush depends quite a bit on the type of garage door you have.
There is no grain to follow, like with wood, but you will no doubt want to paint the garage to leave as few stroke marks as possible. Leave that first coat to dry thoroughly. The first coat needs to be completely dry before you apply a second. You may find that some parts of the door look a little patchy or blotchy but a solid application of the second coat should cure that and even out the coverage for a uniform appearance. After you’ve finished, the brushes will need to be cleaned properly using a solvent like turpentine, white spirit, or paint thinner. With oil-based paint you cannot use soap and water like you can with acrylic latex, so dip the brush in plenty of solvent until all the residual paint has come out. Once it is all gone, you can then use a thick solution of liquid dish soap to finish the cleaning.One thing is undeniable in the DIY and design world, brass hardware is back and lately I’m totally loving it on furniture. As a child of the 80’s I admit shiny lacquered brass fixtures still don’t appeal to me, but I am drawn to the golden glow of real or antiqued brass with its warmer patina.
In the past two weeks, I’ve fixed up two pieces, one dresser and one campaign desk, and both had brass hardware I wanted to reuse. One set of hardware was real brass, the other brass plate, and both needed a good polish. Over the last year, I’ve also narrowed down two great substitutes for faking the patina with other hardware that you want to give a golden glow. If you’re curious how to tell the difference between real brass and brass plate, how to polish unlacquered brass, or how to fake the look of antique brass hardware, here’s how I do it. Real brass is an alloy of copper and zinc and if it’s not lacquered, will tarnish with exposure to air over time. There are two methods I use to bring back the mellow antiqued patina, one is Brasso if I have it on hand and the other is natural lemon juice and salt paste mixture. But first, before you polish, you should know whether your hardware is real brass or brass plate. Here’s the simple way to tell the difference.
Take a household magnet and see if it will stick to the piece, if it won’t that means the hardware is real brass, like these campaign pulls. However, if the magnet picks up the hardware, then it’s brass plated (with steel or iron as its base). Good old fashioned Brasso works well for cleaning off the tarnish, and I usually soak for about 20 to 30 minutes. With real brass, I use a rag or extra fine steel wool to remove the tarnish. You can also use a mixture of salt and lemon juice as a natural polish, use approximately ¼ cup of salt per squeeze of ½ lemon to make a paste. Either one works great on either brass plate or real brass, just be sure to use a soft rag or soft toothbrush with brass plate and not steel wool, it can scratch the thin brass plating. Lemon juice is acidic, so be sure to fully rinse and buff your brass hardware, and I’ve read that using a little olive oil on top will prolong the periods between polishing. I find brass plated hardware is more stubborn for some reason and usually takes repeat soaks to bring it back to life but it can be done.