Vycor Plus 6 in. x 75 ft. Roll Fully-Adhered Flashing Set your store to see localavailability 4 in. x 75 ft. Self-Adhering Window Flashing Roll Vycor Plus 12 in. x 75 ft. Roll Fully-Adhered Flashing 6-9/16 in. x 78 in. White PVC Sloped Sill Pan for Door and Window Installation and Flashing (Complete Pack) HeadFlash-Flex 1-3/8 in. x 60 in. 4-9/16 in. x 78 in. SureCorner Flexible Corner Flashing for Door and Window Installation (Box of 30) 4-9/16 in. x 117 in. Vycor Plus 4 in. x 75 ft. Roll Fully-Adhered Flashing 6-9/16 in. x 39 in. 1-3/8 in. x 84 in. White PVC Sloped Head Flashing for Door and Window Installation and Flashing (Complete Pack) 90 in. x 6 in. x 2-1/2 in. Polyurethane Plain Pilasters Moulded with Plinth Block - Pair 1-1/8 in. x 119 in. 4-9/16 in. x 150 in. Sloped Sill Pan 1-1/8 in. Extension Connector (10-Piece per Box)White Sloped Sill Pan Extension Couplings (10-Pack)Includes Sloped Sill Pan, Spare Front Lip, Pair of Flexcaps, Installation Instructions (Complete Pack)
7 in. x 1-5/16 in. x 90 in. Polyurethane Double Panel Economy Pilasters Moulded with Plinth - PairEnd Caps for SureSill Sloped Head Flashing (40 Pairs) 2 in. x 1 in. x 86 in. Polyurethane Fluted Mull Pilasters Moulded with Plinth - Pair 12 in. x 75 ft. Vycor Pro Flashing 6-9/16 in. x 117 in. 1-1/8 in. x 39 in. Vycor Plus 9 in. x 75 ft. Roll Fully-Adhered Flashing Set your store to see localavailability Flashing over garage door Re: Flashing over garage door FLIR (ITC) CERTIFIED BS THERMOGRAPHERFLIR (ITC) CERTIFIED LEVEL 1 THERMOGRAPHER LP lap siding installation instructions call for a 3/16" gap between the bottom course and the flashing. If you caulk this area, you are trapping any moisture in back of the siding and failure will result. Chances are when the Z flashing was installed, they installed it with a 90 degree angle at the wall / trim junction. That is what causes the moisture to sit there. Proper installation would have the flashing installed with a slope to drain the water away.
I see siding installed tightly on top of the flashing. I see the gap caulked. Report what you see. Washington State Licensed Home Inspector # 221 President, Washington Association of Property Inspectors (WAPI) (253) 241-0602 calls answered until 10pm Gig Harbor Home Inspectors Pierce County -Thurston County - King County - Kitsap County Originally Posted by sstanczykI think the gap between bottom of siding and flashing should not be flashed (to allow water out if behind the siding) but a bead of caulk along the trim , under the drip edge, would be good. Home Inspection Reports Powered by: Originally Posted by rnewland You no longer have to caulk the but joints of Hardie plank Originally Posted by rwind Unless they are field cut. My comment was a but, not a butt I had to call Hardie and ask. I inspected new Construction and every home was not caulked. Originally Posted by dvalley It looks like Louisiana Pacific siding.
It was involved in a large class action lawsuit since expired. The distinctive knothole pattern was the item used to identify it for the lawsuit. I still have some on my home in a couple of areas that I have slowly over the years replaced with Hardi. It is particleboard garbage, comes primed on the surface and completely exposed on the backside. Once it gets wet it becomes shredded wood chips, grows mold better than a pietri dish. This flashing is not sloped to convey the water away from the siding. Water will sit there and rot the lower edge of this siding. Originally Posted by dedwards That's what I thought. I write this siding up as "High Maintenance Siding" and tell my clients to have it maintained annually. Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I am replacing all the wood trim around my garage door openings. The trim butts to vinyl siding with j-channel.
The siding at the top of the doors had no flashing or trim cap and that is where the water got in. I am installing flashing above the door trim. The wall itself only has chip board (I guess it is really called OSB) behind the siding. Should I install some sort of tarpaper or plastic behind the siding a few inches along the top and sides of the opening before putting up the new wood trim? Seems like another disaster waiting to happen with just bare chip board behind the siding. I pulled out a bunch of soggy chip board where the leak occurred at the top. The chip board had soaked up the water like a sponge! North facing wall which gets snow and ice in winter. Moss growing in J-channel above door due to lingering moisture. I would put some flashing there. I was just doing some work on my back door and while it leads directly to the house not the garage. There was some flashing that went under the siding and over the trim. (For the horizontal piece) You're right OSB does soak up water pretty well.
Once wet it doesn't stay together very well either. This is one of the drawbacks to what I refer to as "the caulkless era" of exterior construction, before housewrap and other drain-plane measures were written into code. All those channel joints with no protection from driven rain (and your header trim sans flashing to boot). Consider the drain route for water coming off the flashing you're installing. Unless it has a positive slope forward, much of it's likely to run to the ends and down the side trim. Do what you can to properly lap a water barrier behind the flashing and down beyond the sensitive materials on the wall. For more help, please post a photo. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google Sign up using Email and Password Post as a guest By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged doors garage trim or ask your own question.Garage Door Troubleshooting Guides