Ships with any qualifying order over $25. FREE Shipping on eligible orders. New (10) from $3.69 Sold by Moving Up Garage Door Company and Fulfilled by Amazon. Want this professionally installed? This item is available because of the Add-on program The Add-on program allows Amazon to offer thousands of low-priced items that would be cost-prohibitive to ship on their own. These items ship with qualifying orders over $25. Pair of 7' Garage Door Cable For Torsion Springs Add-on ItemFREE Shipping on orders over . DetailsGarage Door Torsion Spring Steel Bearing 1" ID 2" OD FREE Shipping on orders over . DetailsThe Hillman Group The Hillman Group 852143 18" Winding Rod - For Torsion Springs 2-Pack FREE Shipping on orders over . This is a replacement lift cable for standard, seven-Feet high, wood or metal garage doors up to sixteen feet wide. This cable is for doors with torsion springs. It features a galvanized finish and is one eighth inch thick for strength and durability.
8 x 1.3 x 0.3 inches 4.5 out of 5 stars #26,714 in Home Improvements (See top 100) #6 in Home Improvement > Building Supplies > Building Materials > Doors > Garage Doors, Openers & Parts > Hardware > Springs & Wires #5,565 in Home Improvement > Hardware 8.8 ounces (View shipping rates and policies) 5 star76%4 star15%3 star3%2 star2%1 star4%See all verified purchase reviewsTop Customer ReviewsQuality replacement cablesDirect replacement, but a little thinner than original.Perfect for a 7 foot garage door.The end that attaches to the wheel does click on the plate that keeps it from coming out but its not terribly bothersome. TheseEnsure you order right length for our garage door heightWorked out perfectly!Quality cables at a great priceFantastic Price and Quality! Protech Garage Doors - Pair of 7' Garage Door Cable Replacement For Torsion Springs/Lift Spring - Heavy Duty Pair of 8' Garage Door Cable For Torsion Springs by National Garage Door Torsion Spring Steel Bearing 1" ID 2" OD
The Hillman Group The Hillman Group 852143 18" Winding Rod - For Torsion Springs 2-Pack See and discover other items: garage door springs torsion setIn a recent guestbook entry someone asked how to replace the cables on his garage door. He had also loosened the setscrews on both drums to level the door, and asked if the cables can be replaced and the drums secured without having to unwind the spring. Working with spring tension is dangerous. I would first recommend that you view the dangers and warnings described in our tutorial on torsion spring replacement. The simplest solution would be to insert a winding bar in the winding cone of the spring, loosen the set screws, and let the other end of the winding bar rest against the top of the door. Do this to both springs if you have two springs. The shaft will be free to turn and you can replace the cables and reset and secure your cable drums. To reset your spring tension follow the necessary steps for reinstalling the garage door cables and winding the springs.
If you are more of an audio-visual learner, we have videos below on how to replace cables for your garage door. The Wayne Dalton Torquemaster System can be a bit confusing to repair when you do not have a lot of experience working with it. Below, we have made a tutorial video on how to replace your Wayne Dalton Torquemaster cables safely and easily.Back to Garage Door Question List Safety cables keep a broken garage door spring from sailing around the garage! They are similar to the garage door cables, though usually lighter weight. They are attached to the garage door track or wall near the stationary pulleys, lace through the garage door springs, and connect to the same support that the spring does. Safety cables are easy to install (less than an hour for a pair) and come in a kit form with all necessary fasteners. To be sure, look at your garage door track setup before you shop, you can make a list of what parts you may need... eyebolts, s-hooks, etc.
Then, see what the kit offers, and buy separately what the kit doesn't have. As with most kits, the manufacturer can't take every possible circumstance into account... that's Use online sources to get the widest selection of industrial safety items not available in your local hardware or home store! Do you have any idea how much is costs to replace an auto windshield... $400 dollars and up! a garage door spring breaks (and they do... Murphy's Law again), it can fly across the garage with such force that it can penetrate a double layer ofOr put a serious hurt on you if you're unlucky enough to be About the only difficult thing about this installation, next to being steady on a ladder, is lacing them through the garage door spring. Be sure to check the free movement of all door parts and proper function on one side before installing the second side. And don't pull the cable too tight... that in and of itself may cause problems... just slightly slack is fine.
1) Thread the open end of the cable through a hole in the horizontal metal garage door frame near where the cable from the moveable pulley's cable attaches. possible, choose a hole closer to the garage door opening... it will minimize the chance of binding. 2) Thread the cable up through the center of the spring. 3) Thread the cable through a hole in the upper vertical metal spring support, near the place where the spring is attached (graphic right). Loop it back and secure it to itself with a cable clamp. Slowly at first... to be sure the safety cable doesn't bind and impede the operation of the door! Back to Garage Door Question List Home > Do-It-Yourself Instructions > Extension Spring Pulley Replacement Extension Spring Pulley Replacement One major cause of failure for garage doors using extension springs is that the pulleys wear out. Usually the ball bearings break down, causing the pulley to scrape against the track angle, or the rivets fail and the pulley splits as in the picture above, causing the door cable to stick.
When the owner of this garage door called us she said, "The garage door opens part way and stops." This is one of many symptoms caused by worn pulleys. This particular door would not sit evenly on the garage floor. When we tried to open it the garage door jammed. Generally, when pulleys fail, the garage door does not open and close properly. The garage door closes part way and reopens. The door binds and sticks, and scraping sounds often accompany the other symptoms. Some times the first symptom is a frayed or broken cable, or a dangling extension spring, or a dent in the car. In my 30 years servicing garage doors I have found these symptoms to be some of the more challenging for do-it-yourselfers to diagnose. At our parts page you will find a variety of pulleys you can purchase for your garage door. On this door, 3-inch pulleys equivalent to our PU-30S were replaced with our PU-30H, which is rated to last twice as long. Since all the pulleys in the extension spring system are used approximiately the same amount each time the garage door opens and closes, we recommend that you replace all four pulleys - this will save you time and reduce shipping costs.
3. Open the garage door. If you try to lift the garage door from the middle of the door, it will probably open a little and stick. The door will likely also be uneven. 4. When a pulley is worn the corner of the garage door will often catch on the broken pulley, preventing the door from opening. 5. To open the garage door you will probably need to move to the side of the door with the worn pulley. Lift the door, being careful to keep the top section from catching on the broken pulley. You may have to reposition yourself so this does not happen. 6. Once you raise the door, you can wedge it open with a board as shown. You can also use a broom stick, or you can prop a ladder under the middle of the door. 8. Another way to hold the door open while working is to reengage the trolley. On Genie screw drive openers pull the trolley arm back toward the opener. This locks the trolley into the drawbar assembly. If you have a Sears, Chamberlain or LiftMaster opener, you will need to plug in the power cord, run the trolley to the open position and reengage the opener trolley.
Make sure you unplug the power to the opener again. 9. Let's return to the broken pulley. This pulley was worn out to the point that it was splitting apart. 10. Remove the cable clip from the S-hook. Since we have already raised the garage door, the extension springs will be loose enough for the cable clip to come off of the S-hook. If these are damaged, you can purchase them from our parts list. 11. Remove the cable from the pulley as shown. 12. Loosen the nut and the bolt that hold the pulley to the track. 13. Remove the nut from the bolt. 14. Take the worn pulley off of the track and remove the bolt. 15. Insert the bolt in the new pulley. 16. Place the new pulley back on the track. Finger tighten the nut on the bolt. 17. Secure the bolt. 18. Move to the other pulley on this side of the garage door. 19. Loosen the nut from the bolt on this pulley. 20. Remove the nut from this assembly. 21. You may need a screw driver to assist in the loosening of the cable and the removal of the bolt.
22. Once you remove the bolt, keep the cable on the old pulley and keep the pulley fork in its present orientation. If you rotate the cable or the pulley fork, the pulley will rotate as the extension spring expands and contracts when you open and close the garage door. 23. Swap the old pulley with the new pulley. 24. Place the new pulley in the pulley fork. 25. Insert the bolt in the new pulley, keeping the cable on the pulley as shown. 26. Place the nut on the bolt, and finger tighten the nut. 27. Secure the pulley to the pulley fork by tightening the nut and the bolt. 28. You are now ready to attach the cable clip to the S-hook. Pull the cable that goes on the pulley attached to the extension spring. You may need to lift the spring to raise it above the track where it normally sits. 29. Place the cable clip on the S-hook. 30. If the cable is not taut and the spring sags below the track as shown, you will need to shorten the length of the cable.
This is a sign that the extension spring is fatiguing and has lost some of its strength. You may want to consider replacing your extension springs, as they may only last a few more years. Even if the spring is not sagging, you may want to consider following these steps for threading the cable through the cable clip. This method of securing the cable to the cable clip has never failed for me. 31. In order to shorten the length of cable, remove the cable clip from the S-hook. Pull on the cable near the cable clip. 32. Pull on the cable until the cable is tight (but not stretching the extension spring) and the spring rests on top of the track. 33. Measure the distance from the cable clip to the S-hook on the track. 34. Relax the tension on the cable. Re-measure this distance and place a vise grip on the cable. 35. Remove the cable from the cable clip as shown. 36. Make a U with the cable as shown. The vise grip should be touching the bottom of the cable clip.
37. Slide the end of the cable through the side of the U as shown. 38. Pull the cable tight. 39. Slide the end of the cable through the middle hole so that the new portion of cable is inside the loop formed in the previous steps. 40. Remove the vise grip. Insert the cable in the bottom hole where the vise grip just sat. 41. Pull the cable tight. 42. Run the cable back through the pulley near the extension spring as shown. 43. Reinstall the cable clip on the S-hook, making sure that the cable still runs around the stationary pulley. 44. At this point, you are finished replacing the pulleys. Thread the remaining cable through the outside of the track. This will keep the cable from damaging the garage door as it opens and closes. If you cut off the excess cable, you may need new cables the next time you replace your extension springs. 45. Move to the other side of the garage door and repeat this process. Remove the old stationary pulley. 46. Install the new stationary pulley.
47. Remove the old pulley attached to the extension spring. As before, do not rotate the pulley fork or the cable. 48. Install the new pulley. 49. Again, you will need to shorten the cable by the same amount as on the other side. This will cause each extension spring to lift the same force on each side of the garage door, allowing it to rise smoothly and evenly. 50. Reinstall the cable clip on the S-hook, making sure that the cable still runs around the stationary pulley. 52. Remove the vise grip from the track, and lower it a few inches. At this point we had to go to the other side and remove the board that was also supporting the door. We also disengaged the opener. The vise grip was positioned there for safety to keep the door from dropping and slamming onto the floor if something had been overlooked in the repair process. 53. If the garage door stays open, remove the vise grip from the track . 54. Check the strength of the extension springs. When it is open half-way, it should not move.
When it is opened most of the way, it should stay or pull itself up the remainder of the way. When the garage door is almost closed it should stay or drop to the floor. 55. Check to see if the door is level. The door should be sealed to the floor all along the bottom. 56. If one side of the door is too high, you will need to shorten that spring. In this case, the right extension spring was too strong. Place a vise grip just below the roller on the side that is too strong as shown. 57. Rather than adjusting the cable in the cable clip, you can move the S-hook to a hole that is closer to the garage door. 58. To verify that you have the proper positioning of the S-hook, you can measure the length of each extension spring. Each one should be the equal length. Extension springs normally stretch out to 67� when they are new. If the springs are stretched to more than 75� they will probably need to be replaced soon. 59. Grease the top of the track where the pulleys and extension springs ride.