I kind of have been holding out on you guys. I wanted to test this project a few times before I told you how life changing it was. It IS life changing and now you are in on the secret! Painting furniture has long been one of my favorite pastimes. It is always amazing to me how a little love can totally change a piece from horrifying to awe inspiring. My go to technique has always been spray painting because every time I tried to paint with normal paint it was a HORRIBLE experience. Now, I know that there are people that swear by good brushes, foam rollers, and Floetrol and I am sure that they work for some…but I have never been able to master the paint from a can technique…until now. First lets chat about the 3 most common problems when it comes to painting.Also the acronym for brush strokes is BS. Just putting that out there. Brush strokes happen when your paint dries before it has a chance to level. The stiffer (I am just going to say it, and crappier) your brush the worse it is going to look.
Chip brushes are literally your worst nightmare when painting furniture. But even with expensive brushes I have never been able to paint something brush stroke free.Flashing is unevenness in a paint finish sheen. It happens for a few reasons. If you are using cheap paint, especially cheap paint that has a high sheen, trying to get too much paint out of a roller, not leaving a wet edge, and rolling all willy nilly. Flashing is extremely noticeable when light reflects off of a piece. White foam rollers are like a shifty teenager in a trench coat on the sidelines of the homecoming football game. They are perfectly poised to ruin your crowning moment. Also foam rollers=light texture. Not enough to start over but FOR SURE enough to make you want to kick the dresser every time you walk by it. 3. Stickiness After Drying. Have you guys ever been in contact with a piece of furniture that never fully cured? It is eternally sticky to the touch. This happened once to a piece that was in my Mother In Law’s house.
It was a four poster bed that was painted high gloss black and it was unusable because it was so sticky. This can happen for a few reasons, your paint could be crappy quality, there wasn’t adequate dry time between layers. It seems like the higher the sheen, the more you risk this being a factor. Plain and simple, latex wall paint is not ideal for furniture. So do you want to know what the secret combo is for a perfect paint job? Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and a Mohair Roller. I kid you not, you will never go back once you have tried this combo. Start by prepping you piece with a light sanding and a good cleaning. (By light sanding i mean the way you would wipe down a wall) This is the most important part so listen and listen good. Roll it on with only a few passes, I am talking 3. Don’t worry so much about coverage, you can do more than one coat. Just make sure that there aren’t any globby areas. Now put your roller down and walk away.
When the paint starts to dry and you mess with it, it is just a recipe for disaster and will always look worse when you are done. And then you will hate yourself. This is a freshly rolled drawer vs. one that has had time to dry, can you see how much the paint relaxes and evens out? I have never had something work so well time and time again. You guys, this is the real deal.Don’t hug me too tight when you see me next. I love my guts intact. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I noticed that there was a 1" gap between the edge of either side of the bottom rubber weather strip on the garage door and the door frame. Now I see that it is 3-4", and likely being chewed by mice. I don't have a serious mouse problem because they don't hang around in the garage or come into the house, but would still like to keep them from eating the weather strip. Is there a solution to keep mice from eating the bottom rubber weather strip?
doors garage pest-control weatherstripping When you have to fill the gap, use stainless steel or copper wool (not kitchen pad with soap though) and optionally foam the gap closed. The metal stops the mice from eating through the foam. Actually, mice seem to like rubber, certainly insulation, especially since many of these compounds are now made from renewable sources for oil. I'd not be surprised if you do have mice getting in, and just not know if it. Or it might be chipmunks doing the chewing. We get them in our garage too. What can you do? I place traps where they will run. Put one near the corners of the door on the floor. Put a few on the rafters in the garage. I'll bet you catch a mouse or two. PLEASE don't put down poison. I recently spent a few anxious hours and then days afterwards when our dog got into rat poison that a neighbor put down.Last I knew rubber and plastic weren't on the Chez Mouse Menu. I would think that there may be some attractant stored in your garage that may be attracting them.
Things like dry pet foods, nesting materials or pet water bowls can attract the little dears. Take a good look around your area for concentration of droppings. This may give you a hint what they are looking for or nesting in. Short of baiting them with a rodent poison or traps, try to remove the attractants and hide outs so they will visit the neighbor's house instead of yours! I had the same problem of mice eating door bottom seals. now when I insall new door bottom seals I put bearing grease on the inside of the bottom seal. thisidea was given to me by my overhead door suplier and seams to workPeanut butter and cereal grains make good bait. Or you could put a glue strip near your garage strip. Another option is to set up a video camera and see what you are dealing with first and then decide how to deal with it. I believe there are also humane traps if you prefer catch and release. If you don't want to kill them, try some fox urine on your door. A fox is a natural predator for mice.