fabric (approximately 3 yards for a queen and 6 yards for a king) Measure the space between the floor and the bottom of the mattress — this is referred to as the drop. Add this measurement to 4 inches for the hem plus 3 to 5 inches to tuck under the mattress. To determine the length of each fabric panel (the bed skirt will consist of three panels: two sides plus the foot of the bed), measure the mattress itself. On average, a queen is approximately 60x80 inches and a king is approximately 76x80 inches. Cut fabric to needed dimensions; add 6 inches to each panel's length for seams. Iron fabric so seams are straight when sewing. The bottom hem will be 4 inches and the top hem will be 1/2-inch. Fold over approximately 4 inches on long side of each piece for the hem and iron this fold. Fold over approximately 1/2-inch on short side of each piece for the hem and iron this fold. Sew hems and seams using a sewing machine. Using straight pins, secure the bed skirt to top of box springs, making sure the bed skirt hangs evenly on all sides.
Now that our new wood wall is finished, I'm working full steam to finish up my teen boy's room. You got a peek at some of the bedding when I showed you the wall, but today I wanted to share how I made a super easy bedskirt from some Ikea fabric. I've made 4 or 5 bedskirts in the past, but this one was by far the simplest! I will admit, I cheated a little bit, though. But, you won't tell, right? What made this one different from others I've done is that I didn't sew the skirt all together into one piece, with a section that actually lays across the box spring. Instead, I pieced together the sides and attached them directly to the box spring. In order to do this, you'll need these: Upholstery Twist Pins I've used these for years on pieces of furniture that have arm covers. One on each side keeps them in place beautifully. However, my smart friend Lisa made a similar bedskirt using these upholstery pins and so I took her suggestion and used them for this project too (hers was completely no-sew, go check it out!).
I had planned on maybe even just hot gluing the fabric to the box spring, but decided that these pins would be better in the long run, when and if I ever want to change things up. Oh, and don't bother looking for these at Home Depot or Lowe's. They'll act like they've never heard of what you're talking about, and they probably haven't. I got mine at Ace Hardware, but other smaller hardware stores may carry them too. They are super easy to find online, and it looks like JoAnn's, True Value, and Wal-Mart even carry them! So, once you have your pins and fabric, measure your box spring to find the length and height that you need your piece to be. I added a little on the sides and bottom to allow for a hem, and about 2-3 inches extra on top where it will be attached to the box spring. I also wanted a single box pleat in the middle of each side, so I added about 5" extra to my length to allow for that. On the side pieces, I allowed about 3" extra on the end that would be at the head of the bed.
Finally, I stopped my measurement about 2-3 inches short of the corners on the end, because I wanted to use a separate piece to overlap on the corners. See the pictures following...it will make more sense! After my pieces were cut, I pressed a small hem on the sides and bottom and stitched it up. Then, I folded my box pleat in place, pressed it down from top to bottom, and then stitched it across the top. Have you ever made a box pleat? That seam is the middle of my piece. You may not have a seam but I had to sew two pieces together to get my length. I made the seam in the middle so it wouldn't show once the pleat was done. So, 1) Find the center of your piece. 2) Since I allowed 5" for the pleat, I measured out 1.25" on from the center-that's how wide that pleat on each side of the center will be. 3) Fold and overlap the fabric back the to center point, and then back towards the outside. 4) Repeat on the other side and pin across top. 5) Stitch to secure pleat.
Along with the side and end pieces, I followed the same procedure (except for the pleat) to make two small panels for the corners. They were about 10" long. I attached them to the box spring first. After holding them in place, I folded the top raw edge under to add a little stability, poked the pin through the fabric and screwed it into the box spring. Once you get it started through the fabric it goes in very easily. Then, I started with the section at the foot of the bed. After finding the middle of the fabric section and mattress, I arranged the skirt exactly where I wanted it to hit the floor, and followed the same procedure as the corners to attach the fabric to the box spring. Then, just work your way down to the ends. The ends will overlap the section that already done on the corner. Here's how the completed corners look- I did the sides the same way, starting in the middle and working out to the end. However, on the end at the head of the bed, I wrapped the extra inches around and just pinned the end there.
That's all there is too it! I think it took longer to explain than it did to accomplish, so it's not hard at all. I think I'm going to like this method better than the more difficult skirts I've made in the past or pre-made skirts, mainly because No extra fabric puddled on one side and hiked up on the other. Trust me, I just put a store-bought bedskirt on my Master bed, and am already frustrated trying to get it to hit the floor right. Also, this is a great method to use if you use risers under your bed and standard bedskirt sizes don't work. That's one more project marked off the list for the boy's room! See you tomorrow for our Best of the Nest features from last week.A Cheap, Natural-Look Bedskirt Next time you go to the hardware store, you might consider adding bedding to your shopping list! Especially if you have a full size bed: Cotton painter's canvas (or drop cloth) comes in a 6-foot by 9-foot size that makes it perfect for a full size bedskirt without any prep work.