folding wooden chairs diy

folding wooden chairs diy

folding wooden chair plans

Folding Wooden Chairs Diy

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Here's the guest tutorial I mentioned yesterday: a DIY folding stool made from scratch! This project uses more of my new Arrow fabric and makes a great side table, footrest, or portable seat. Here's LiEr to tell you how to make them. - - - - - -I am LiEr and I write a craft blog ikatbag that is part fabric, part cardboard and, occasionally, wood. Today, I am happy to be here sharing how to make these little wooden fold-up stools. I made these stools in Jessica's new Arrow fabric for my three girls, in two sizes. The smaller one is for my 6-year-old and the two larger ones are for my almost-8 and almost-10-year old. They also make good footrests for the director's chair in yesterday's post. Though they are meant for kids, they can easily be sized up for adults, too. The dimensions in this tutorial are for the larger stool; to make the smaller one, follow the dimensions in the diagram below. The hardware for both stools are the same. We'll be making the stools in two parts - the wooden frame and the fabric seat.




Part I: The Wooden Frame I used lumber in two sizes - 2X2 for the side beams and 1x2 for the legs and cross bars. The thicker wood is sturdier, but the thinner legs folded more compactly for the kid-sized chairs. If I were making this in a larger size for an adult, I'd use 2X2 lumber for the entire frame. This is the hardware I used: (Note: you can just as well use skinny screws in place of the nails, but I didn't have those on hand.) along with the associated tools: Saw (hand or electric) Drill, with the relevant drill bits Wrench/spanner for the hex bolts Cut and sand lumber in the following lengths - Of the 2x2:Two 14" lengths for side beams Of the 1x2:Four 19" lengths for legs One 11 3/8" length for cross bar One 9 3/4" length for cross bar Drill holes in the legs as shown - first, holes for the bolts, 9" from the flat ends. Next, pre-drill holes for the screws, centrally (or as best you can) through the flat ends.




Also, pre-drill matching holes for the screws in the 14" side beams, as shown: Step 3: Assemble the wider legs Gather two legs, the 11 3/8" cross bar and the 14" side beam with the 12" screw spacing. I also found it helpful to attach the cross bar first (the one with nails), Step 4: Assemble the narrower legs Gather the remaining pieces of lumber: two legs, the 9 3/4" cross bar and the 14" side beam with the 10.5" screw spacing. Assemble the narrower leg system in the same way as the wider one, noting that the cross bar is now 4" (not 3") above the pointed ends of the legs. This is to allow the two leg systems to nest within each other when the stool is folded closed. Step 5: Assemble the frame Nest the narrow set of legs in the wider, with the pointed ends in the correct configuration for the stool to stand squarely on the ground. On each side, line up the bolt holes and insert bolt, washers and nut in the following sequence: (from top to bottom): bolt, washer, wider leg, washer, narrower leg, washer, nut.




Secure tightly with the nut on the bottom. Part II: The Fabric Seat Cut out fabric as follows: Top fabric: one rectangle 19.5" x 14.5" (mine was Arrow) Bottom fabric: one rectangle 19.5" x 14.5"(mine was navy twill) Inner canvas stabilizer: one rectangle 18.5" x 13.5" (mine was natural duckcloth/canvas) Step 2: Pin and Sew Assemble and pin a fabric sandwich as shown in the photo below. First, centralize and pin the stabilizer to the WS of the top fabric so that there is a uniform 1/2" border all around. Next, pin the bottom fabric to the top fabric so that their RS are together and their edges are aligned. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew around the edge of (but not on) the canvas stabilizer, through both the top and bottom fabrics (red dashed line). Leave a large opening (about 10") along one of the long sides, for turning out. Step 3: TopstitchClip the corners and turn the entire fabric sandwich RS out so that the canvas stabilizer is entirely enclosed.




Manipulate its corners within the sandwich, if necessary, so that it lies flat and does not bunch up. Edge-stitch around (i.e. sew about 1/8" away from) the edge of the sandwich to flatten the seam. Topstitch an additional line about 1/4"-1/2" from the edgestitching, to securely "catch" the layer of stabilizer between the two outer fabrics. The fabric seat is finished and ready for the frame. Note for non-sewers: if you had sized your frame accordingly, you could even skip the sewing altogether by using store-bought placemats! With a heavy-duty staple gun, wrap the shorter side of the fabric seat over the side beams of the frame and staple the fabric to the wood.What I love about warm weather: Guests show up at a moment’s notice. Sometimes it’s easier to feed them than to seat them, though, unless you have a secret stash of folding chairs–the weather-resistant kind that won’t punish you for absentmindedly leaving them outside when the party’s over. Let us help you with that: Above: Photograph via The Balcony Gardener.




Metal Above: With a durable steel frame and weather-resistant powder-coated finish, the silver-colored Arc En Ciel Folding Chair weighs about 10 pounds and is $89 from Design Within Reach.   Above: A set of compact (and budget-friendly) folding chairs is £35 from The Balcony Gardener. Above: Made of steel, Fermob’s Latitude Folding Chair has a backrest made of weather-resistant fabric. It’s available in 10 colors; Linen/Savanna is shown here (the backrest’s top band is customizable). A set of two is $432 and is nonreturnable from Y Living. Above: Constructed of powder-coated steel, the Folding Bistro Chair from Fermob is the classic Paris chair. It’s available in 20 colors, including white, for $108 from Potted. Metal and Wood Above: The folding Bayern Chair combines a galvanized steel frame with a seat and backrest made of ash wood; 94.12€ from the Dutch company Elefant. Wood Above: Made of teak, a sturdy Tropico Folding Dining Chair has a handle that makes it easy to carry when folded;




a set of two is $415 from All Modern.   Above: Designed by Gunilla Norin, a Viken Folding Chair is made entirely of teak (except for a couple of tiny screws). For pricing and information, see Skargaarden, which sells it with evident pride: “The chair is, despite its apparent simplicity, a construction that demands a high degree of precision in production. Every teak strip must be treated with care and respect (yes, you’re allowed to think that we’re exaggerating, that doesn’t bother us).”  Above: An Applaro Folding Chair is made of solid acacia wood with an acrylic glaze. It’s designed for outdoors use, but storing it indoors is recommended to protect the finish; Above: Constructed of hardwood, a Spontaneity Folding Chair is manufactured in Vietnam. Non-returnable, it is $99 from Jamali Floral and Garden Supplies. Above: From Smith & Hawken, a 2-Piece Folding Patio Chair Set is made of mahogany and rust-resistant steel; None of these chairs suit your fancy? Go to Folding Chairs For Spontaneous Summer Dinner Parties.

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