The Web address you entered is not a functioning page on our site. Go to Amazon.in's Home PageThis page is not meant to be a step-by-step instruction guide. The modifications below were done years ago. I don't remember part numbers, suppliers and other details. You should not attempt to replicate any of these mods unless you possess the inginuity to pull it off on your own. Our RV entourage consists only of my wife and I and our dog. We have no need for the upper folding bunks. They can be left down and used for storage shelves, but that makes the RV too claustrophobic. I modified the front bi-fold bunk by removing the rear half of the bunk. The two halves are held together by a piano hinge and come apart with the removal of some screws. With the rear half gone, there's plenty of head and elbow room for one person on each side of the table. And the remaining front half of the bunk still makes a great storage shelf. This modification is easily reversible. I removed the rear upper bunk altogether and replaced it with an L-shaped narrow shelf.
The shelf is a single piece of ½" plywood attached to the walls with aluminum angle. The edge of the shelf is topped with spindle rail and faced with pine trim. I reused many of the same screw holes that were for securing the bunk. Again, this mod is easily reversible. Here's an idea I read about on the Internet... From Home Depot I purchased a wire drawer unit that is a perfect fit for the hanging closet. The unit is perfectly deep and perfectly wide. It even perfectly clears the shower plumbing. Unfortunately, this perfect drawer unit is just a smidge too big to fit through the closet door opening. It needs to be assembled inside the closet. But it's supposed to be assembled using a rubber mallet. I cannot recommend this modification unless you really enjoy tinkering, but here's what I did to make it fit... First, cut about 4" (one drawer space) off the top of each vertical side piece. The kit comes with four "L" brackets and four "T" brackets. With hacksaw and file, convert the "T" brackets into matching "L" brackets.
Using a rubber mallet, assemble all the "L" brackets into all the horizontal cross pieces (two brackets per cross piece). Using a flat file, carefully thinned down the remaining ends of all the "L" brackets. The idea is to make a snug fit between the brackets and side pieces, but not so snug as to require the mallet. The fit need not be perfectly tight as gravity holds the vertical joints together. Now everything can be easily assembled inside the closet. Screw the unit to the floor of the closet. Use some wood shims and screw the unit to the closet's street-side wall. Our dinette table was supported by the conventional arrangement of pedestals and pockets. I found the pedestals to be particularly difficult to wrangle out of their pockets each night when converting the table to a bed. So I went to an RV dealer and ordered some folding legs. The new folding legs are a tad shorter than the old pedestals so I added some blocking between the legs and table. The arrangement is surprisingly stable.
More stable than the old pedestals and pockets, in fact. Converting from table to bed is a snap. As an added bonus, the table is now portable and can be taken outside. For a bit of added stability on the road, I added some hooks inside the floor pockets and secure the table with bungee cords. Several people have asked where I bought the folding table legs. At the time of this project (around 2009), I was unable to find the legs for sale as a retail item. I went to an RV dealer, found a new RV with folding table legs and then ordered the legs through the dealer as a spare part. As I recall they were about $17 each. The part may now be more readily available. Try an Internet search. I added a winterization valve on the input side of the water pump (green arrow) and a small accumulation tank on the output side of the pump. Just having some flexible hose between the pump and the hard plastic plumbing made a big difference in noise reduction. I wanted an easy way to drain the water heater without messing with the plug.
So I replaced the plug with a metal braded hose and a ball valve. A lot of people warn not to mix metals with the water heater tank, so I used a nylon nipple between the tank and hose. I also cut the rubber coating from the valve handle so it doesn't end up being melted by the burner. Cracking the pressure valve helps drain the tank. I was having no success with the fresh water fill. I'd get more water on me than in the tank. I think there may be a dip in the fill hose and/or vent hose acting as a water trap. In any event, I cut three or four feet off the end of a garden hose and snaked the cut end down the fill hose and right into the fresh water tank. Now I connect my supply hose directly to the garden hose and no more mess. I probably should have used one of those white hoses that's made for drinking water. But we keep the water chlorinated and don't drink it anyway. After a little whittling on the plastic fill housing, I was able to stuff the hose coupling far enough back to close the hatch.
To store additional sewer hoses I added a 4" storage pipe under the trailer chassis in front of the axle. The pipe is PVC and is the thinner, lighter type used for outdoor landscaping and rainwater. The pipe caps are plastic grates held in place with thumbscrews. The pipe is held to the trailer frame by a pair of galvanized strap clamps and everything is painted black. The grip tabs on the sewer hose couplings needed to be trimmed slightly so they would fit inside the pipe. The pipe can hold at least 30' of sewer hose. We normally camp in a spot that requires 200' of 15 amp extension cord to get power to our RV. We never need to unravel the on-board power cord. So I decided scrap the cord and claim the space for more storage. Storage is scarce on a small RV like this. We have only one storage space that's accessible from the outside. Here's how I increased its size by two cubic feet... When the RV is not in use there was no way to isolate the battery without pulling the main fuse.
So I added a battery cutoff switch. I also added a switch to internally power the RV's clearance lights (green arrow). I wanted still more external storage. So I added another baggage door to access the space under the front dinette bench. Installation is detailed on a separate page. We had little interest in air conditioning and usually didn't have the power to run it anyway. I pulled the AC unit off the roof and replaced it with a MaxxAir Maxx Fan. Luckily the roof opening was fully pre-wired with extra 12 volt DC circuits. We liked our Maxx Fan enough to buy a second one for the bathroom. The advantage to having a low-speed reversible fan in the bathroom is that a little positive pressure can be created to "inflate" the shower curtain. Showers are far more tolerable without a clingy curtain. The sink cover wasn't of much use so I turned it into a drop leaf with hardware from Home Depot. Even with the leaf up, we can squeeze in and out of the door. Unfortunately the leaf covers up the monitor panel so we need to be extra careful about turning off the water pump when we leave.