Twill Supreme Long Chair Slipcover Pom Pom At Home Preston Parson Chair Slipcover Lucinda Chenille Skirted Slipcover Fabric Chiavari Chair Storage Cover in Black Couture Covers Fabric Slipcover Cotton Duck Folding Chair Slipcover Chair Pad Cover Protector (Set of 2) Lucinda Chenille Dining Chair Slipcover Montana Pleated Chair Slipcover Matelasse Damask Dining Chair Skirt Slipcover Lucinda Leaves Parson Chair Skirted Slipcover Square Mongolian Dining Chair Slipcover Breakup Infinity Armchair Slipcover Customer ReviewsFoam Cushions Custom CutWe offer 19 densities of foam cushions to choose from. Prices start dirt cheap, up to rigid, long lasting (20 years) foams. All our foam is flame retardant free!Visit our custom cushions page for informative steps to create your own beautifully covered cushions. This page is specific to replacing couch cushions.Foam cushions that get three hours or more of use each day need the best foam grade—EverFlex.
Because of the high cost of foam rubber, the EconoFlex grade is commonly used in the manufacturing of 90% of all sofa cushions—we don't recommend this grade except for applications that don't get used a lot. All foam cushions will soften with use. The better quality foam cushions just soften slower. Take time to read the descriptions of our cushion foam found at the bottom of the price quote page you'll see after selecting a shape below. Keep in mind that thinner foam cushions will feel softer than the descriptions, and thicker foam cushions will feel firmer. When back cushions lose their support follow these directions. Cushions for the back are usually not filled with foam! Start by checking your cushions to see if they are foam or if they are filled with polyester stuffing or feathers. If they are foam, skip to below directions for seat cushions. When polyester breaks down it flattens or compresses and just needs usually 1–2 pounds of polyester stuffing per cushion to fill it back up.
Follow the directions in the video below and simply cut into the old cushions and fill up until you reach the desired firmness, fold the fabric over, and staple it shut. You can bring them into our store or send them to us and we'll do this for $35 labor per cushion ($60 labor for feather cushions) + the amount of polyester stuffing. Please bring/send in the outer case too. This "down alternative" pillow stuffing is made from small, tightly curled balls of polyester fiber. One pound fills one cubic foot. Ace Clipper Plier Stapler Use this stapler to fasten fabric on cushions. Ace Clipper Plier Staples The staples prevent slippage and ripping. Box contains 5,000 staples. Please read the measuring tips, in step 1 on the following page (after you choose a shape below to continue). Today we see a lot more "engineered" sofa cushions and the steps need to be followed. Replacement couch cushions are available in all natural foam rubber, regular foam rubber, or a specialty cushion foam such as custom cut memory foam or dry fast foam (outdoor foam).
We cut the following shaped cushions... Please click on the shape below that closest resembles the cushions you would like to order. Next you will be asked to enter in the dimensions, and after that you will be given price quotes on a range of foam qualities. Foam is custom cut to your dimensions and not usually usable by others. Each custom cut foam cushion has its own return policy, which will be provided during the checkout process. Sofa cushions tend to ware out and soften. The foam rubber inside sofa cushions is one of the most expensive parts in a couch and will need replacing from time to time. When replacing sofa cushions use a quality foam rubber that is more expensive if you don't want them to fail. Cheap foam rubber will feel great in your sofa cushions for a short period of time before failing. We follow a rule when recommending foam rubber for sofa cushions. If the sofa cushions are sat in for more than three hours a day, buy the best quality foam rubber you can.
Cheaper foam rubber will soften after a few months of use in sofa cushions and better foam rubber can keep sofa cushions firm for years. Once you've chosen foam rubber that meets your budget you'll need to wrap the foam rubber in batting or a down envelope before its stuffed into sofa cushions. Sofa cushions covered with a down envelope tend to look full for years and if you wrap your sofa cushions with polyester wrapped foam rubber they tend to look flat in a few months. You could always add another layer of polyester batting to your sofa cushions and bring them back to life. Don't ever smoke on sofa cushions.Welcome back to Upholstery Basics, where we’ll be rolling up our sleeves and completing our first project together: a wrap-around seat. Of all seating, dining room chairs get the brunt of the abuse — a little vino here, red sauce there. If you’ve been glaring at those chairs and wondering how to give them that much-needed facelift, read on, and you’ll be transforming those eyesores into jaw-droppers in no time.
Read the full post on reupholstering dining chairs after the jump! Don’t forget to check out Upholstery Basics: Tool Time to learn more about the tools we’re using today. 1. Remove the seat from your chair frame by unscrewing the screws on the underside. If your seat drops into the frame, like mine, you may be able to pop it out without unscrewing it. Make sure to mark the orientation of the seat before removing. It may seem obvious, but it is imperative that we know which side is the front when we attach the fabric later. 2. Strip all of the old fabric, padding, staples and tacks off of the seat using your pliers and staple remover. Once you’re finished, you should be left with a wooden board. This is a good point to mark any screw holes, so you can avoid them as you attach new padding and fabric. 3. Flip the board upside down on top of the foam and trace the outside edge with a permanent marker. 4. Use the carving knife to cut out the shape. Don’t worry if the edges get a little ragged looking.
Just do your best to keep the blade straight up and down and not angled to one side or the other. 5. To create a slight domed shape to the seat, place a layer of cotton batting about an inch inside the edges of the board. Add extra layers if you’d like the crown of the seat to be more exaggerated. Just remember to make each additional layer of cotton slightly smaller than the one that precedes it. 6. Attach the foam to the board by stapling through the side of the foam and down into the wood. It’s best to work in opposites as you staple, so start with the back side and then move to the front. Then staple from the right to left side. Be careful not to push the foam back as you staple. We want the hard wooden edge to be padded, so it won’t show through the fabric. 7. Dacron will smooth out all of the imperfections and be the final layer of padding before the fabric. Once the foam is secured all the way around, tightly wrap Dacron around the edge and staple to the bottom of the board.
8. Trim off the excess Dacron gathered at the corners and around the bottom. 9. Now it’s time for the fabric! If you’re working with a pattern, decide where you’d like it placed on the seat. The rule of thumb is to place the top of the pattern at the back of the seat and the bottom of the pattern at the front of the seat. 10. To get started, staple the fabric at the back of the seat, but only put the staples in halfway by lifting one side of the staple gun up at an angle. These are called sub-staples and will allow you to pull them out very easily should you need to make adjustments. Once you’ve stapled the back, move on to the front. Then sub-staple the right and left sides. 11. Make a pleat in every corner by pulling the fabric from the sides around to the front and back. Fold under enough of the excess fabric to make the edges of the folds flush with the corners. Feel free to cut out bulky excess if you’re having trouble getting it all folded under the pleats, and use your regulator to get the fabric neatly tucked in.
12. Once you’re happy with where your fabric is placed, take out your sub-staples a few inches at a time and replace them with permanent staples that go in all the way. These will need to be closer together to make sure all the fabric is held down tightly. Keep a close eye on the edge as you go. The more consistent you are with the tightness of your pull, the smoother the fabric will look. Another tip: Pull with your palm instead of your fingertips to avoid puckers and dimples. 13. It’s looking like a finished seat now! After you’ve cut off the excess fabric, permanently staple the dustcover to the front side of the seat. 14. Then add a strip of cardboard tack on top for reinforcement. 15. Fold the dustcover over the tack strip toward the back of the seat. This is called a blind tack. Fold under the raw edge and staple to the back of the seat. Once you have the back secured, fold under the sides and staple. 16. If you have a seat that screws onto your chair frame, clear any holes of padding, fabric or dustcover and attach it to the chair.