foam mattress for bench

foam mattress for bench

foam mattress cover reviews

Foam Mattress For Bench

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Economy Foam & Futons was established in 1937 by Irving Bronfeld, a keen and driven business mind and entrepreneur. Since that time, the constant drive to serve our customers to the utmost of our ability in providing the highest quality bedding products and the service that goes with it, like a fine wine has aged gracefully and only flourished. We hope that you will be able to join us in the dynamic greatness that has been a part of our history of yesteryear, and we want you to be a part of a great future as we embark upon a 21st century odyssey to provide you with nearly every type of foam and futon product you require, for your home, business, boat, and especially for large events. Our customers are our family, and we hope to continue growing together with you. From our original flagship store first situated in Manhattan's historic Lower East Side, we are now located in the trendy and design-progressive Greenwich Village area. We tout many celebrities, political dignitaries, and your average Joe and Jane among our valued customers and clientele.




There is no job too large or small for Economy Foam. Start saving money, time, and effort today by giving us a shot. And always remember that if you believe we don't carry what you are looking for, give us a call and you may be pleasantly surprised to find that we do. Our competent, courteous, and professional sales staff will work with you through all stages of your order, and we offer all of this to you at the best prices around. Come in or call us and see for yourself!!. 13 posts, read 53,749 times Wanted to know if anyone knows of a cheap place where one can get a cut of foam/cushion for a custom bench. Measurement of 24 inches x 9 feet. I'm in Astoria, Queens but can venture in the city as well. Just need the foam as we are planning to make our own covering for it. 2,530 posts, read 5,179,673 times Originally Posted by alegende Just do a search. 9,080 posts, read 17,558,093 times Here's a place in Manhattan. Some of the reviews are not so great. Economy Foam & Futon Center - Greenwich Village - New York, NY I've never been so can't comment.




I have also passed by a place on Northern Blvd in Queens. Sometimes Queens prices tend to be cheaper. Not sure if they have what you need, but it says they carry foam on the website. Fabric City Inc. | NY Fabric Stores - For All of Your Fabric Needs 4,480 posts, read 7,225,341 times Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.About this itemImportant Made in USA Origin Disclaimer:Place the 5-Zone Convoluted Foam Topper on top of your mattress to enjoy unparalleled comfort all through the night. With separate head and neck zones included, this convoluted foam bed pad provides support from head to toe. This foam mattress topper even includes separate zones for shoulder, mid-leg, lower back, and torso, to spread the weight evenly and offer additional support. On the whole, this convoluted foam bed pad is great way to soothe your sore pressure points.




On the whole, this convoluted foam bed pad is great way to soothe your sore pressure points. 5-Zone 2-inch Convoluted Foam Topper: Head and neck zones are designed for continuous comfort Shoulder and mid-leg zones are designed to reduce tossing and turning Lower back and torso zones provide soft, yet supportive comfort where you need it mostSpecificationsFill MaterialTypeRecommended LocationFeaturesConditionMaterialManufacturer Part NumberColorModelBrandAssembled Product Dimensions (L x W x H)Country of Origin - ComponentsCountry of Origin - AssemblyDoes it make a difference whch side is up. does the manufacturer recommend which side to use.by It looks like you are not signed in. To proceed you will need to either sign in or create a new accountSign InDoes it make a difference whch side is up. To proceed you will need to either sign in or create a new accountSign InCan you layer this topper?by It looks like you are not signed in. To proceed you will need to either sign in or create a new accountSign InCan this be folded into a sofa bed?by It looks like you are not signed in.




Why do we ask for your zip code? By providing your delivery zip code, you’ll allow us to: American Signature Furniture respects your privacy and will not share this information with anyone. Value City Furniture respects your privacy and will not share this information with anyone.The most important consideration for our van build was, of course, the layout of the floor plan. We chose a Sprinter with a 144” wheelbase and high roof because its length allows you to park in regular parking spots, while its height allows both of us to stand up, even though Jakob is 6’2”. The 144” wheelbase allows for 130” of cargo space behind the driver’s seat, and about 70” of width. We looked for inspiration on commercial build websites (for example Sportsmobile, OutsideVan), but none of the professional builds really met our requirements very well, not to mention the price tag on these puppies! For our van, we knew we wanted the following: Once we had an idea of how we’d lay everything out, we needed to figure out how to exactly build it all, starting with the bed frame.




We got inspired by another DIY van build and their awesome Instructables guide (thank you!) and time lapse video for the bed frame construction. We used essentially the same materials/structure but changed the measurements to fit our layout and with a few tweaks. The bed frame construction is built from 2×3 inch pine studs, attached with 2-½ inch / 3 inch wood screws. We followed these instructions in terms of technique, but changed the frame height to be a total of 39” (in order to fit our mountain bikes underneath). We also changed the design slightly by making the driver’s side “frame box” wider than the passenger side “frame box”. The first step was making 2 frame boxes that are 80” long and 39” high, with 5 vertical support beams. These are then made into boxes that are about 20” (driver side) and 10” (passenger side) wide. We worked around the wheel wells the same way as in the Instructables description. All the pieces were screwed together using wood screws, we did not use glue in addition.




In the front, the outside of the boxes don’t extend all the way along the wall – the driver side box ends at the window frame, the passenger box ends at the sliding door. Once the two box frames were entirely complete, we used 1” L-brackets to attach them to the floor, 1 near each corner for a total of 4 attachments. We didn’t attach the bed frame to the sides of the van for several reasons: the screws hold a significant amount of weight and we didn’t want to attach the frame in to too many spots to reduce the stress on it while the van warps during driving. We made the frames incredibly snug so when putting the L-brakes in, it wasn’t easy. The frame is further held in place by the frame of the car that bulges in a bit on the passenger side right behind the sliding door, so it won’t slide forward. Once the bed frame was locked down, we put 8 cross sectional supports in between the two frames, 3 of them are 2x3s, the remaining 5 are vertical 1x3s. We put them in so that the longer side is vertical.




These cross sectional supports used two 2” screws at each attachment point with the 2 Frame Boxes. Finally, we covered the bed frame with ⅜” plywood, which is on the lighter side but sufficiently sturdy. It’s a good idea to cover this with polyurethane, although we only did this for part of the plywood. We added 2 hidden compartments underneath the plywood cover where we either store electronics or bike tools and other odds and ends. We cut an opening out of the ⅜” plywood and using the pocket jig, added a floor to the compartment between the cross beams of the bed frame using ½” birch veneer. (One in the front of the bed and one at the back). In hindsight we probably would have preferred to connect all the pieces of the bedframe structure using pocket screws, as it would have made assembly much easier. The way it’s set up with the screws, it’s difficult to change things once the frame is in place. Once the structural frame was complete, we added shelves in the two side frames using ½” birch veneer, covered in polyurethane.




We used vertical 1×2” pine studs between the posts as supports which the plywood shelves rest on. It’s definitely a little tricky getting into this space with a power drill once the frame was in, so we’d recommend doing this before you put the two side frames into the van. (I hit my forehead at one point on a corner and it started bleeding). Next was putting the safe in. We actually put this in way later and were lucky to be able to fit it in… It’s on the left side of the van where it’s difficult to find! To secure it, we carefully measured and marked and checked and triple checked where we’d drill a hole into the floor of the van… and did just that. Using a stainless steel bolt and split washer, we bolted the safe into the frame and used sealant to make sure it’s watertight. Final steps were the drawers and storage box, facing towards the ‘living area’ underneath the bed. While drawers sound somewhat easy, don’t be fooled!! Leveling them was a pain, and Jakob spent hours (literally) working on just that.




Make sure your 2×3” pine studs are as straight as possible, although inevitably the wood will warp a bit. First we decided to make the box about 18” high because that’s what the height of the chairs we were sitting on in Nikki’s parents house and it was a comfortable height. This dictated the height of the drawers. But back to the box. This is one of our favorite features in the van. First, it proves a ton of convenient storage. Second, it functions as a bench when eating in the van. We can swivel the two front seats around and with the box, we have enough seating for 4 people. It was constructed using ½” birch veneer covered in poly and attached using pocket screws. There’s a middle divide to provide more support when someone sits on it – especially Jakob! We used two simple 2” hinges from Lowes for the lid. The hinges are offset by 3” from the back edge of the box so that the box does not need to be pulled out all the way when opening. We put the entire box on 6 casters from Lee Valley Tools. 




To lock the box down while driving, we attached a chest latch (Amazon) with the male piece on the front of the box and the female part on the 2×3 inch frame. So far, these locks have been solid and convenient. Again, the height dimensions of the drawer were dictated by the height of the bed minus the box height. Leaving the front face of the drawers to be ~ 19 ½”x 9”. The total depth of the drawers we wanted to be 15″, so that we would have 65″ of space for the bikes underneath the bed. So based on these requirements, the drawers themselves were 18 ½”x 14 ½” x 8” (WxDxH). We needed something to attached the drawer rails to so we enclosed the area where the drawers would be and put another board down the middle that would separate the 2 columns of drawers, providing attachment points for the drawer rails. (Sorry, it’s just easier for me to show via pictures.) For the slides, we used 14″ Soft Close Ball Bearing Full Extension Drawer Slides from Home Depot.




These were then attached to the ½” birch side panels that were put in to surround the drawers and the one placed in the middle. Again, Jakob spent hours leveling these – I don’t have the patience. Given these are forward facing drawers, the locking mechanism you use is especially important. Originally we only used roller locks, and severely underestimated the force with which these drawers can fly open (Leika will attest to this!) Needless to say, we revised it and used these  , from McMaster Carr (THESE ARE AWESOME). The box below the drawers would function as a bench when pulled out so we didn’t want the drawers to have handles that stuck out and these have a great locking mechanism and don’t stick out, so they were perfect! The locking mechanism has an L shaped latch that the handle hooks onto. In order for these to work with our drawers, we needed to put 1×2” pine studs as cross beams above all the drawers to which to attach the latches. Last but not least, our mattress!

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