How much should a garage door spring replacement cost? Here's the video I used - I found it pretty helpful: Garage door spring replacements cost me less than $100 by doing it myself and only took me about 25 minutes. As far as I know, changing out the garage door springs will solve most issues. I found at kit online at a place called garage door nation and just bought that one since they seemed the most legit and included all the extras. I am usually not good with these types of things. I saved almost $500 by doing it myself.Clopay garage doors vs. raynor garage doorsRead 2 Answers?When should I replace garage door springs Assuming you are talking rollup garage door - issues similar but not as many parts on a tilt-up door. Many rollup doors in residential use go 30 years or more on original springs. Generally, they do not need to be replaced till they break. A broken one should be pretty obvious - the door will open very hard because it is being pulled up more at one side than the other, if at all, and one spring will be wound tight while the other will be looser, and usually the break is a visibly obvious one - either a visible break in the main portion of the spring
, or the free end that goes into the end plate is broken off. Compare the springs against each other to see they look the same. Also, if you think a spring is broken but can't see anything wrong, maybe the set screws that hold the end plates tight onthe axle have vibrated loose, relaxing the tension on the spring. As the door gets older you may need to have a garage door repairman adjust the spring tension tighter if the door starts opening hard or balking at opening, though that is more often a problem with dirty slider track and bearings from dust accumulation, which you can clean with WD40 and then lubricate the side support rollers with motor oil or household oilcan. On lubrication of the slider track there are differences of opinion - some say clean with a non-oily solvent like brake cleaner and leave it clean and ddry so dust does not stick to it, other say oil with a light household oil or WD40. I prefer the latter so the plastic slider does not get worn out sliding on the metal slider track or pole, though it definitely does accumulate an oily dust grunge.
The cleaning and lubricating should be done at least yearly - every 3-6 months if you use the door multiple times a day, more often if you are in a real dusty area like the Dust Bowl, the desert, or close to the beach.Can the metal weatherstrip at the bottom of my garage door be replaced or do the panels have to be replaced also? I think he is trying to upsell you on something you don't need, or their company policy is neer fix, always replace - some companies are in that mode not, to prevent future call-backs when it does not work. IF only needs screws, sounds like a good do it yourself job with self-tapping sheet metal screws. Or a Handyman could do for maybe $50-70 if that is all that is needed. If the weatherstrip is damaged and in on the front edge of the garage door, one other possibility - replace with one like this, or screw a bottom compression type rubber weatherstrip on the bottom of the door - actually work a lot better than the face-mounted ones anyway, in my opinion.
Look like this from M-D Building Products and Frost King among others. Can also be used nailed to frame to flap contacts door face as an edge and top weatherstrip - The first thing to check are the electric eyes that are located on either side of the door frame. Their purpose is to detect an object in the way of the door and reverse or disable the opener. If the eyes are not facing directly at each other, they may work intermittently, causing occasional spontaneous reversals with no rhyme or reason. If you don't have these eyes, no one stole them... you just have an opener that was built before the 90's when they became mandatory for all newly manufactured openers. Disconnect the garage door opener from the door and go through the troubleshooting routine on the garage door repair page. In fact, you really should read the entire garage door repairIt will make troubleshooting later much easier! Remember that sometimes, a garage door opener can increase the binding in a
door just because of the way it pushes the door down. Ever notice how it is easier to pull a wagon over a curb than it is to push it? doors were designed to be pulled, not pushed. You may think the door is working OK because it feels OK, but you should still check all components to be sure. Do any necessary repairs, reconnect the opener and try it out. are having problems, you can make slight adjustments to either the closing force, opening force, or the travel limit adjustments. Some older garage door openers do not have nicely labeled adjustment screws for force and travel limits. In fact, even some of the newer openers manufactured for and resold by your basic garage door company are not userThis guarantees return business... costly minimum charges for diddlyUnfortunately, I cannot give you specs on every opener and all the configurations, but, if you want to know how I have approached the problem of limit adjustments on an unknown opener, it's really a matter of observation and
how they work will help you to find the adjustment. on the principle of transferring force to a momentary contact switch: If there is enough resistance to the movement of the door, this force is transferred back as torsion (twisting force) in the motor assembly. this torsion exceeds the strength or tension in the springs that stabilize the motor assembly, the assembly twists. A small arm of some sort is attached to and moves with the motor assembly. If the movement is great enough, the arm will strike a switch, sending an electrical signal to the The springs and/or switch may be located on the top of the unit, or is off, plug the opener in, keep your hands clear, and send the opener through a cycle or two. If you are lucky, it will reverse as always and perhaps give you a clue as to where the force adjustment springs are. If you figure out where the adjuster is, simply increasing the tension on the spring will increase the closing or opening force.
For opening and closing limit adjustment: Look for trip arms or clips attached to the opener chain. may be metal plates screwed on to the chain, plastic snap-ons dojiggies with flexible metal arms attached, etc. There will be two on the chain, one for the opening limit and another for the closing limit. activate the opener, the clips move with the chain, and hit the auto-reverse switch when they reach it. By repositioning them, the switch that they trigger activates earlier or later, thus increasing or Open up the case and look for a screw-type track that moves when theSometimes, the limit switch is activated by the movement of a specially shaped "nut" traveling on this track. opener is activated, the screw rotates, causing the nut to move, until itWhen the opener reverses, the screw turns the opposite way, and the nut travels back. There may be two nuts on one track... one for the opening limit and one for the closing limit.