door lock for peugeot 106

door lock for peugeot 106

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Door Lock For Peugeot 106

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404: Page Not Found Many apologies, but the page or specifications data sheet you're looking for isn't here any more, or perhaps it never was. In any event, you may want to try searching the database of car specifications, browsing the latest additions to it, or perhaps reading some of the articles on the site. Another kind of 404: P/G 206 '98 ~on Add to Inquiry CartMotor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair Sign up or log in to customize your list. Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top When I lock my car, the central lock button (the one with padlock) on the panel starts blinking with a 1 sec. rate. I have check if the boot is closed, and it is (if it wasn't, it would also show an error on the display. It's not that long ago since I bought, but I can't recall seeing this blinking earlier. Can anyone check if theirs are blinking as well, or does anyone know what's wrong, if there is anything wrong at all?




Been told that this is normal. That it is blinking when car is locked. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google Sign up using Email and Password Post as a guest By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged peugeot or ask your own question.The Peugeot 206 is a French supermini produced between 1998 and 2010 and designed as a mid-range vehicle for the European and general world markets. It has several variants, including the smaller coupe cabriolet, the RC hatchback, the SW station wagon, the SD sedan, and the high-performance GTI. Most of these used state-of-the-art engine immobilizer technology for extra added safety. The engine immobilizer is designed to prevent an unauthorized Peugeot 206 key from starting a vehicle. If an unauthorized key attempts to key the ignition, the Engine Control Unit will shut down the car instead. This is part of the computerized, electronic safety features built into vehicles like the Peugeot 206 and later models like the 307 and 308.




Engine immobilizers go hand in hand with electronic SmartKey fobs because they are looking for the specific electromagnetic resonant frequency associated with the SmartKey. This key fob system is also used to prevent would-be car thieves from hot-wiring a car and bypassing the key-start system entirely. Of course, while this technology has played a critical role in improving the property safety for Peugeot and other vehicle owners, it is not immune to mistakes or hiccups. Occasionally, the immobilizer may not recognize the owner of the vehicle and refuse to start even when the correct key fob is present. Some immobilizers are designed to disallow any attempted vehicle starts for a certain amount of time after a faulty attempt was made; this could cause problems if a legitimate person tries to start the vehicle without the Peugeot 206 key fob in hand and causes the vehicle to lock up. Because the electronics systems of newer vehicles are all centrally controlled, a failure in one component could have ripple effects and accidentally switch something on or off.




Computers get buggy sometimes, and computers in cars are no different. Some things that might be the issue include dead batteries, a blown fuse, frayed wires, or poor connections. There are many reasons why one would want to reset the engine immobilizer in a Peugeot 206 or any other vehicle. The process is quite simple and may take one of several paths. The first path is the easiest but may be the most costly and potentially the most time-consuming. This is the process of getting the vehicle towed to a Peugeot dealer's lot, and then having the dealer manually reprogram the codes on their computer system. This will cost a nominal fee, but it is the easiest option when it comes to resetting the immobilizer. The second path is to just reset the car to factory settings. This is done by disconnecting the electrical system, removing the car battery, charging it to full power, and replacing it. If the battery is dead, it may cause immobilizer problems, so install a new one in its place.




Reconnect everything, and it should solve the problem. The BSI reboot is best done by trained professionals as it requires technical know-how and equipment. The BSI stands for "Built-in Systems Interface," which is a fancy way of referring to the vehicle's overarching computer system. It allows a technician to look through the specific electrical problems to see what is causing the issue and preventing the ECU from allowing the vehicle to start. Rebooting the entire BSI may be done by connecting up with the vehicle's electrical system through a specialized reader. If the BSI reboot doesn't work, then the BSI must be used in conjunction with a book of BSI codes to try and determine the exact root of the problem. This is where fixing the vehicle goes beyond the realm of DIY and into the realm of hiring a tech. The Peugeot 206, key fobs, and other accessories may be found on eBay. For a set of relevant listings, it is best to first do a general search using a term like "Peugeot 206" or "Peugeot 206 key fob" to get a sense for the sorts of listings available on eBay.




Use keywords from eye-catching listings to turn up more listings like them, which will provide an ultimately more relevant set of listings that may then be perused. Using the left sidebar to navigate within a certain price range or to only look at certain types of listings may also help one find the right product.Peugeot 106 1.1 Indepenance 3 Door Ideal First Car 12 Months MOT Here we have for sale a little green Peugeot 106 1.1 Independence taken in part ex.# Perfect first car or little run around. 111209 Miles Full fresh 12 months... My key is stuck in the door lock and won't come out. I have tried numerous ways and it just won't. Any ideas on how to get it out or what can be done? There are several possibilities. One, that everyone else has been pursuing, is that the lock cylinder itself is binding. If so, lubrication and/or vibration may help loosen it. If you think it might have been super glued, you can try acetone, which dissolves cyanoacrylate glues -- but it may also dissolve the finish on the lock, and on the door, and on anything else it drips on.




Personally I'd consider replacing the cylinder in that case. Which brings us to the other possibile approach: Open the door from inside, and disassemble/dismount the lock far enough to remove the cylinder. If it turns freely by itself, the latch mechanism was jammed; check that the latch is engaging the strike without side pressure and is operating smoothly. If the cylinder still doesn't turn, you can get a replacement and worry about unsticking this one later, and/or bring the cylinder to a locksmith for assistance. Much cheaper than asking the locksmith to come to you, much easier than bringing her the whole door... Don't laugh, this may work as I have used it on stuck or cross-threaded bolts and locks. Remember that heat makes metals expand, while cold makes metals contract. Looks like the usual 5-pin tumbler lock. I do not know how the key is stuck, but brass is a soft metal. After long term use the surface can becomes rounded and not move the tumblers correctly. The tumblers could be stuck from dirt or other contaminants.




Try oiling the key first by forcing WD-40 or a light motor oil into the lock and tap the key lightly with a small hammer. This will normally loosen a stuck pin tumbler. Next step is to by freeze-spray and freeze only the key. This will make the key shrink a tiny bit. Wiggle the key and latch to try and jar the pin tumblers loose. Brass is not brittle when cold but do not use enough power to break the key. I am assuming someone did not play a dirty prank and put super-glue inside the lock. Even so, oil, freezing and heating will make the key loosen up, even if it takes a few hours. Graphite lube is better than WD-40 for locks... try a product called lock-ease. Use a rubber mallet and whack it hard many times while turning and jiggling the key. Don't hit the key, when hammering. Keep turning-pressure on the key while hammering and jiggling. You can use WD-40 in a pinch, if you don't have graphite, but you should then use copious amount of lock-ease to rinse out the oil or take the lock off the door out and rinse it with a solvent like acetone whithin a few months.




Use graphite for lubricating locks, not oil or products like WD-40 which will collect dust and eventually dry, leaving a gummed up lock. You should also get a new key cut, because the primary reason for keys getting stuck is that they have been worn down too low. Keys are basically "digital". So a new key should fit better. Edit: If you have powdered graphite you may need to suspend it in isopropyl alcohol. A 5%-10% solution (by weight) should work, but measuring could be an issue, so another way to do this is to put some graphite in a baggie, and then add 90% isopropyl alcohol to it. Use as little alcohol as possible to make a suspension. The suspension should be runny enough to be sucked up with a dropper. Where to apply lubricant: (can't see the images as I am at work) I had a key get stuck in a lock half rotated once. I forget exactly what happed. I believe it has something to do with ability to set the lock for a different key, one of the pieces got jammed.

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