Gatehouse is a hardware and home security company which is owned by Lowes, specializing in residential deadbolts and more. Gatehouse locks provide consumers with an alternative to some of the biggest home security companies that usually tend to dominate the market and demand top dollar, such as Schlage and Kwikset. The Gatehouse logo is not just found on single and double cylinder deadbolts, but you will find it on a wide variety of home hardware products such as cabinet hardware, fasteners, mailboxes, bathroom hardware, and window hardware. In this article we will talk about some of the most popular Gatehouse products, and review some of their best features. This keypad deadbolt has has a modern look and a classic finish, but add to that the fact that the throw-bolt is made of hardened steel ensures protection from sawing and any other brute force attempt to break or cut through the lock. The installation process for this single-cylinder electronic deadbolt is simple and easy, so that even people with no handyman skills can do the installation in a short time – around 15 minutes give or take.
This Gatehouse lock will fit in any standard door size, and comes with a back up key in case you want keyed access to your home or establishment. Locks can be re-keyed to match up with any other KW1 keyway. Read our full review here This double cylinder deadbolt by Gatehouse, which will provide you with an extra layer of security for your home or commercial establishment. Its satin nickel finish provides a classy touch, and its heavy duty appearance will surely deter any potential intruders. Add to this the fact that this is a heavy duty deadbolt and potential intruders will find it next to impossible cutting or breaking it. Why a double-cylinder deadbolt? The answer is this: If you have glass in or around your deadbolt, with a single-cylinder deadbolt the glass may be broken and the thief can simply reach through and turn the thumb turn switch to gain access. Not so with this type of deadbolt! The installation of this double-cylinder Gatehouse deadbolt should be no problem since when you purchase this lock, you get a detailed instruction sheet as well that guides you through all of the steps.
*This lock can be re-keyed to any other KW1 keyway This polished brass single-cylinder deadbolt meets requirements to receive an ANSI Grade 2 certification, meaning it is extremely secure. This Gatehouse deadbolt has an auto-locking feature wherein the deadbolt re-locks just 10 seconds after you’ve unlocked it, as an added security measure. This Gatehouse deadbolt fits most standard door sizes, and installation, as usual, is not difficult. Once installed, your deadbolt offers great residential security with a throw bolt that has a core made of hardened steel, which should do the trick against any kind of intruder attack on the lock itself. It offers up to 10 custom user codes, which means all your family members and even some close friends can have their own individual codes and can enter your home whenever they want, just by tapping their personal code (which can be deleted) into the illuminating keypad. 4 Inch Antique Brass Entry Door Hinges When discussing door hinges, well…not many people find this topic extremely enthralling, but you should definitely consider them, because they are a necessary and even crucial part of your overall home security efforts.
With this particular Gatehouse package, you get 6 of these 4-inch entry door hinges, with antique brass finish for a clean, classy look that will set your door off nicely. The installation process shouldn’t be any problem at all because of the removable pin that comes with them. These Gatehouse hinges are quite affordable, and yet they are made by heavy-gauge cold-rolled steel which only adds to the security they provide. These brass Gatehouse hinges come with square corners and countersunk screw holes. At 1 and 1/4″, this Gatehouse aged brass mushroom-style cabinet knob is a great-looking addition to any type of cabinet. This Gatehouse product comes complete with the essentials, including the knob itself and screws, so you can immediately install your cabinet knob in no time at all. You can get this model (code: Z772B-31-LABM-D / 226705) for under $10. Here is a quick video with some information on installing cabinet door knobs. This double clothes hook by Gatehouse is fairly self-explanatory, but comes at a very affordable price of under $10.
This model by Gatehouse is small but strong, and can come in very handy, as it does have a double hook. When it does not have clothes hanging from it, you can see the polished brass finish and it does look very attractive on your wall or in your closet. This double clothes hook takes just about a minute to install if you have the some wood screws. If you’re hanging the hook from drywall, you will need some drywall screws instead. Belos you can see a video for how to do this quickly and easily. Here we have Gatehouse’s very own door stop. It is a 3″ oil-rubbed bronze spring door stop, which prevents your door from banging into the wall and incurring damage. Although door stops are even less of a popular topic at the dinner table than discussing hinges, do not underestimate the humble door stop. The package comes with non-marking rubber tip, and it’s suitable for home wall or baseboard installation. This is a package of 10 self-closing cabinet door hinges, screws, and pads, which retails for under $20.
Always check availability for these items as they are often sold out, but be sure to check back once a new shipment comes in. The satin nickel finish adds to the smooth appearance of these hinges. Below you will find a how to video that shows how to adjust a self-closing door hinge…How to Install Sliding Barn Door Hardware imageSliding barn door hardware holds a large door next to a wall and includes a track that allows the door to slide laterally. A set of hardware usually includes barn door rollers, a track, stops, mounting...Read More about How to Install Sliding Barn Door HardwareIf you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware!
You guys already know what happened next: John thoughtfully examined the hardware and announced, "I can TOTALLY make that." And so he did: The total cost for this door - wood and hardware combined - was less than $100. LESS THAN $100, YOU GUYS. Metal rails & tubing - $25 If you already have the door, then that's only $55 for the hardware - $55 versus $400. It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. (If you're making the door, you'll also need a circular saw - or a hand saw and a whole bunch of patience. :D) So...you ready for this?! Then let's get to it. There are several ways to make a simple plank door. We used exterior tongue-and-groove board normally used for house siding: (The opposite side is a classic bead board.) Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries.
The three skinny boards you see on top there aren't attached; they're just there to act as a brace for the straps and to make sure the door doesn't bend: Lock those straps down tight! Once the glue has dried the next day, attach cross-boards to the door, if you like. (You don't have to, but they do add extra support & visual interest.) Here I've also distressed my door by banging it up with a hammer and screw: Now stain or paint the door to your preference: I stained mine to match the cabinet doors we just made. Now, on to the hardware! You'll need two 2.5 inch pulleys that look like this: Lowe's and Home Depot didn't have them, but John finally tracked some down at Ace Hardware. (I also found some here on Amazon for about $13 each.) The only part of the pulley you need is the center wheel, though, so pull the center pin and pop that out: Now take a bar of 1.5 inch solid steel (available at any hardware store), and stick one end of it in a table vise:
Bend it down as you see John doing here. (This really doesn't require a lot of strength; the leverage of the bar does all the work for you.) The hook you've just made is what's going to hold your wheel. You need to clean up the hook shape, though, so next remove it from the vise and bang the bend flat with a hammer: You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Odds are you'll have to flatten it a bit too far, so now pry the hook back up a bit: ...and then slip the pulley casing in to get the distance right: Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Now test the fit with your wheel; it should fit perfectly, with just the right amount of wiggle room on either side of the wheel: That's one bracket done! Now cut your bar to whatever length your door requires: And repeat the whole process for bracket number two.
(You can see here that John bent both hooks on either side of the bar and then just cut it in half.) You may also want to grind down your cut edges, in case they're too sharp. When you have both brackets ready, it's time to attach the wheels. Drill a hole straight through each hook, piercing both layers of steel: Your wheel will be supported by a pin placed through these holes. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door.If you plan to paint your hardware, now's the time to do it! We used a flat black metal primer. (I plan to age it with a little sanding later.) Attach your bar brackets to your door. I didn't grab a photo before we hung the door, but here's a close-up of the hardware: Now all that's left is the rolly bar! This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it.
Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. Now my lovely hand model will demonstrate how this bar will attach to your wall: Ok, so here you've got a honkin' (technical term) concrete anchor in John's right hand. That goes in the wall. That long screw sticking out goes in the anchor. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. The tube acts as your spacer - very important. Each of the holes you drilled in your bar will have this same set up. When it's installed, your bar should look something like this: Note again that the bolts are located on the lower third of the bar, not the middle. This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them. Ok, so get this: YOU'RE DONE! All you have to do is lift your door into place on the track, and get to sliding! That's all the stuff it's covering up: pretty much our entire pantry.
The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us. Finally - no more clutter, and no more dusty cereal boxes! Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. You can also install a stop on the rolly bar itself, though. Totally up to you. I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. There may be some slight differences, but overall it's the same techniques we used. (And I found it - where else? - on Pinterest. Well, hope you guys liked seeing the next stage of our laundry room makeover! We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater.
