Sometimes you just need a simple haircut or an old-fashioned shave. Your friends may splurge on expensive stylists, but there are, thankfully, plenty of old-school and old-school-but-new places around S.F. and Oakland where men go to get buzz cuts, fades, and high-and-tights. Below is a subjective list of the best of the bunch. Photo courtesy of Fellow Barber/Facebook This swanky, self-consciously old-timey barbershop in the Mission expanded to San Francisco in 2011. It originally came with a handmade shirt shop in the rear — the brand, originally called FSC, stood for Freeman's Sporting Club — which has now turned into more of an apothecary shop with a few clothing items. Haircuts are typically good, and efficient, though you'll probably be facing a wait of 30 minutes or more during prime time on weekday evenings and weekends. A buzz cut is $20, while a haircut is $40. They'll give you a good, skilled, old-fashioned straight-razor shave for $40 (the shave-and-a-haircut combo is no longer two bits, but $75), and as a bonus, they do a "hangover treatment" for $25, which is based on a traditional barber's facial, with hot towel, etc., and an essential oil treatment.
696 Valencia Street at 18th, 415-621-9000, Open Monday to Saturday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., and until 6 p.m. on Sunday Da mayor visiting his longtime barber Eligio Zamora. THE ORIGINAL PALACE BARBER SHOP Willie Brown goes there. That's how old-school it is. What more do you need to know? Their vintage barbershop chairs are, in fact, vintage. Not faux vintage, or recovered, or replicas. There is faux wood paneling. Buzz cuts will run you $20, and a regular cut is $45. You might want to stick to the older guys to be safe, and don't count on anything fancy. 600 Mission Street at New Montgomery, back side of the Palace Hotel. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., but it's 9 a.m. on Sunday Described by patrons as "a contemporary take on the old school barber shop," one customer of owner Gary Michaels says he's like the pit bosses Robert DeNiro's character talks about in Casino: "you walk in, he knows your name, what your drink is, and what you like to play." Though Ingleside Barber Shop caters to a wide demographic, it's a favorite among SF natives, many of whom have been going there for decades.
And the haircuts are great, too—I even know one local who likes Gary's work so much, he buys everyone he knows gift certificates to the place for Christmas. Now that's a testimonial. 393 Ashton Ave between Legion Court and Ocean Avenue, 415-584-8997. This place has only been around for ten years, five in its current space, and yet it feels like one of those institutions that's been around decades. Serving the Castro and Duboce Triangle, Joe's bounced back after a 2012 fire, and it has a bunch of chairs, meaning it's generally easy to get in without much of a wait. And while this is a predominantly gay barbershop, and some barbers may have some sexy photos by their stations, it's a very mellow, reasonably priced, straight-friendly, and low-key spot that guys shouldn't be afraid of if they're in the 'hood and in need of a cut. 2150 Market Street between Church and Sanchez. Now if you want a really gay barbershop that serves pretty much solely gay men, this would be it.
The place comes complete with sassy service, gossip, Tom of Finland pieces on the walls, and gay porn in the waiting area. It's kind of a glorious throwback to the Castro of the 1970s, long before all those condos went up and before there were so many strollers rolling the neighborhood, and when everyone had mustaches. It's a tiny and popular spot with a loyal clientele, so appointments are definitely recommended, and the Yelp reviews are really pretty hilarious. 2195 Market Street at Sanchez, 415-621-6448. Open 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday, and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. This is another older than old school spot, in the heart of the Financial District, where old-guy barbers have been doing their thing for decades. You either want Larry or Jimmy doing the cutting, and you're going to get a little rub-down with a shoulder-massage machine at the end, as well as a nice hot-razor treatment to clean up the line at the back of your neck. 140 Sutter Street between Montgomery and Kearny, 415-956-4049.
Open Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. PEOPLES BARBER & SHOP One of the newest kids on the barber scene is this spot in the Tenderloin/Polk Gulch, which is both new-school and old-school at once, kind of like Fellow Barber. They do the full regime, with hot towels and shaves and the rest, and while you wait you might be handed an Anchor Steam, so that's nice. Guys love this place, by and large, and they even made sure to get one of those striped barber poles to stick out front. So you know it's legit. 1259 Polk Street at Bush, 415-292-4099. Open Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and until 7 p.m. on weekends Yet another in the everything-old-is-new-again camp, except this one is run by third-generation master barber Salvatore Cimino. Cimino's not only kept up the family tradition of excellent cuts and shaves, he's also taken after his grandfather who was a bootlegger once upon a time, making his own wine and grappa. He's been distilling rye and whiskey in the back of the shop, making some excellent stuff that sells for a lot of money in fine liquor stores, and if you ask nicely he might give you a taste after your cut.
1512 Pine Street at Polk, 415-286-4371, Open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Courtesy of Temescal Alley Barber Shop TEMESCAL ALLEY BARBER SHOP If you find yourself in Oakland’s hip Temescal neighborhood, you’ll quickly notice a lot of men rocking a similar slick, low fade haircut. Chances are most of them go to Temescal Alley Barber Shop, the epicenter of dude grooming and associated comradery. In addition to the shop’s $25 haircuts—which are finished with a straight razor to the neck—clients enjoy whiskey, vintage porno mags, and good music. It’s walk-in-only and tucked into Temescal Alley, so go on off-hours to avoid the often more than hour-long wait. 470 49th St, Oakland, 510-761-5074, Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Not every barber is a traditionalist. The Crea II chair ushers in a new look in barber chairs. There are no sharp edges, no visible screws and no annoying corners for hair to gather. A special molded plastic gives that soft reassuring feel. Crea II chairs blend easily into modern salons or more traditional barber shop establishments, for, in any atmosphere, a relaxed customer is more likely to be a regular customer.
The Crea II comes with a built-in headrest. Synchronous movement is available in a manual hydraulic or motorized electric version. To download the literature sheet on the Crea II, please click the Specifications Tab. Nothing says “main street barber” like the Elegance barber chair. You'll want to swap stories all day in this chair. Cast aluminum body, towel bar and clipper hook complete the old-time look. Available on a motorized or hydraulic base, optional headrest. This is a retro barber chair for modern times. To download the literature sheet on the Elegance, please click the Specifications Tab. Turn heads with the clean lines and shiny chrome of a classic. Look to the past with an eye toward the future with the durability and design of the Koken Legacy Barber Chair by Takara Belmont. Made in Japan, the Legacy offers features that will make a barber or stylists' job easier while offering supreme comfort to every client. SEE OUR KOKEN LEGACY ADVERTISEMENT!
The Regalo II is the latest in luxury for men's grooming. Fully motorized, this flagship model chair features a back massage, heated roll-up footrest, memory preset and programmable buttons, plus an auto return feature, and a built-in headrest and power outlet. Available in black, dark red, forest green or deep blue with black or silver enameled body. To download the literature sheet on the Regalo II, please click the Specifications Tab. The LANCER Barber Chair sets new standards for barber chair technology with its robust body style, sophisticated design, superior comfort, and emphasis on operator efficiency. From an enhanced vertical-lift pump and synchronous recline system to an ergonomically engineered seat and elegant upholstery piping, the barber chair is fine-tuned to take daily services to the next level. With refined operability and class-leading performance the LANCER paves the way towards a new future in barber technology.Race Towards the Future.
Using the same wave spring (S-shaped spring) as luxury sofas, the #225's contoured upholstery provides just the right amount of flexibility whilst firmly supporting the body. The wave spring's high level of durability also means that the seat can withstand regular heavy usage without sacrificing comfort. the surface is made up of urethane cushions and panels - these ergonomic features provide both comfort and stability. The signature 'waving belt' firmly supports the lower back, maintianing perfect posture even when in recline. The iron cast body and base have been coated in black to create our profound Elegenace Elite Black model. The Elegance Elite Black is designed to be a modern classic, with complete black detailing and a luxurious feel. Coated in white, the Elegance Elite White model achieves a clean, classic look with unique white detailing. No longer exclusively confined to the world of male grooming, this model could be the ideal addition to beauty and spa salons.