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Unfinished Wood Double X Back Dining Chair (Set of 2) Edmund Smoke Grey Wood Dining Bench Cosmopolitan 7-Piece Natural Dining SetWinthrop Parsons Chair (Set of 2) Fineview Armless Chair (Set of 4) Tufted Linen Side Chairs (Set of 2) Junia Side Chair (Set of 2) Liberty Parsons Dining Chair (Set of 2) Leta Side Chair (Set of 2) Proctorville Upholstered Dinign Chair (Set of 2) Elk Birch Wood Side Chair (Set of 2) To prevent a chemical reaction (markings) with the finish, do not place any rubber, vinyl or other synthetic materials onUse felt pads instead to prevent surface scratches.Furniture Chairs BenchesIdea ChairsOld ChairsDining Room ChairsChair IdeasDining RoomsFurniture IdeasKitchen ChairsChairs HmForwardadorable ideas for chairs! (there is no instructions to click on and open.....just the image) - Bing ImagesSpray-painting furniture — instead of going the traditional paintbrush route — isn't as weird as it sounds, especially when you want to save time on an upcoming project.
Spray-painting gets the job done really fast, often in under 10 minutes. And compared to regular paint, it dries quickly, and you won't be dealing with any telltale brushstroke marks. Once you master the art of spray-painting, you can flip any object, and you can do so without breaking the bank. Thrift stores and garage sales are overflowing with well-made furniture with great lines that just needs a little TLC. In addition, some of your own older pieces can become favorites with a new coat of color. A can of paint and a paintbrush may seem like the way to go, but you'll end up with brushstrokes and likely be stuck doing multiple coats. Don't let spray paint intimidate you — it's easier to get a smooth finish than you think. More: How to pick the perfect paint color every time Stock up on all the supplies you need to ensure you can complete your job quickly without another trip to the store. You'll need a mask, sandpaper, primer, spray paint and a sealer, depending on the project.
Don't be tempted to buy the cheap or generic brands of paint. Brand names like Krylon or Rust-Oleum may cost a buck or two more but it will be worth it in the end. Much like other paint, spray paint has several different finish options, from flat to high gloss. Be sure to select the finish to fit your needs; for furniture, the higher the gloss, the easier it will be to clean. If it is a high-use piece, avoid flat paint — satin or gloss finishes work best for most projects. If you have a large project on your hands, do yourself a favor and invest in a spray paint handle — it can save your finger from aches and pains and make for a quicker job. They're only a few bucks at most hardware stores. Be sure your furniture piece is clean and free of loose pieces or cracks. Tighten any loose screws and fix any structural issues so the piece is sturdy. For best results, sanding your furniture first is essential. Depending on the finish, you'll likely need a medium- to high-grit sandpaper.
Sand the piece thoroughly, paying specific attention to any inconsistencies in the original finish or any rough areas. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. If you're painting over a piece of furniture with a smooth glossy finish — like most pieces made of particle board or MDF — you'll need to get that finish off as best as you can. Once it is sanded, wipe it down with a damp cloth to remove all the dust from the piece. More: 15 stylish ways to include spring pastels in your home decor You should only spray-paint in a well-ventilated area and always wear a mask. Ideally you will be outdoors, so pick a day when the weather is neither too cold nor too hot, as that may affect dry times and create a bubbly finish. In addition, avoid painting on a windy day. Not only will a lot of your paint blow off into the breeze, but you risk having particles of dust blow onto your wet project. Be sure to cover any surfaces that you don't want to get paint on, even if you don't think you're close enough for it to matter.
Spray paint can travel.User ReviewedHow to Paint Wooden Furniture Two Methods:Prepping the FurniturePriming and PaintingCommunity Q&A Painting wooden furniture is a way to give new life to an older chair or other type of wood piece. The process itself is relatively simple, requiring a few basic tools and some time. This is an ideal weekend project, and it is possible to paint wood furniture and adapt the piece to just about any color scheme. Prepare the area for the painting project. Place drop cloths on the floor, and open any windows and doors to allow plenty of ventilation into the area. Position the wood furniture that is to be painted on the cloths. Put on a face mask, and possibly gloves, before beginning the project. Remove any necessary hardware from the furniture. Maybe you're renovating a chest of drawers, or a dresser; in that case, you want to remove any hardware that's attached to the furniture before you paint it. This does two things: It ensures that the hardware is paint-free when you reattach it, and that the entire piece will be adequately covered with paint if you decide that you want use different hardware.
Patch any chipped, holed, or pitted surfaces with wood filler. Apply most of the wood filler to the damaged part of the wood, not to the undamaged wood, although there can be some overlap (and you'll be able to sand it down later). Use the putty knife to scrape away excess wood filler and allow it to dry. If you're going to replacing any hardware on your furniture, fill in the old holes where the previous hardware was attached. Scape flush to the board with a putty knife and let dry. Sandpaper the surface of the furniture. This can be managed by using a piece of sandpaper with a sandpaper block, or by using a hand sander for larger pieces. The goal is to remove any protective varnish or lacquer that is on the surface of the wood, making it easier for the primer coat to adhere. Pay close attention to any scroll work or other indentations in the wood, making sure to sand those by hand as thoroughly as possible. Pay special attention to the areas where wood filler was applied.
Sand enough so that the filled portions are flush with the rest of the furniture. Remove any residue left after sanding the furniture surface. Wiping gently with a clean tack cloth will help remove the residue and leave the clean surface. If necessary, use a mild detergent and wipe the wood surface dry with the cloth. Prime if you want an even look on your furniture. Using a paintbrush and a roller, gently brush an even coat of the primer on the surface of the wood. Use a paintbrush along corners, edges, and harder-to-reach areas; use the roller to hit wide-spaced, even areas that aren't contoured. Allow the primer to dry before moving on to painting the furniture piece. Do you really need to use a primer? If you want your coat of paint to adhere evenly to the wood, and you want the paint to last long, you're going to want to add a primer before you paint. Don't worry about getting even coverage with the primer; as long as it coats what you're going to paint, you're good to go.
If you're going for more of a weathered, distressed look on your furniture, you may want to skip the primer. Note that the paint may eventually chip if no primer has been set down before painting. Prime often-used surfaces extra thick for added coverage. If you're painting a tabletop or a desktop, you may want to lather on a couple layers — or one thick layer — to give added protection and sheen to often-used parts of your furniture. Sand the primed surface after it has dried. Go over every area of primed surface with a fine-grit sandpaper. This will help your paint bond to the primer even better than it already does. Be sure, however, to wipe away any sawdust or residue with a tack cloth before you hit the surface with paint. Paint the wooden furniture, first with a roller and later with a brush. Go over even surfaces of the furniture with a foam roller, if possible. Then, using even strokes, redo the area with a paintbrush, paying special attention to the places where rollers cannot apply paint — such as edges and corners.
Allow the coat to dry, and inspect the piece for any areas that are not completely covered by the paint. Consider using a paint conditioner to make your job easier. A paint conditioner, such as Floetrol for latex paints and Penetrol for oil paints, will slow down the drying edge of the paint, allowing you to get a more even look on your paint. (Paint that dries too quickly can look patchy or uneven.) Paint conditioners, although added to your paint, won't change the color. Get a good quality paintbrush for the job. Poor-quality brushes will result in inferior looking projects; bristles will come loose and get stuck in the paint, or the coverage just won't look uniform. A good paintbrush is slightly more expensive, but with proper care, should prove you wise by lasting for several years. Apply a second coat of paint, if necessary. Most painters will find that a coat of primer and paint won't give the furniture that professional look that they're seeking. Wait for the first coat of paint to dry (overnight is best, but at least 6 hours), and then hit it with another coat of the same paint, using the methods described above.
Seal the paint job on the wooden furniture (optional). Once the paint is dry, apply a lacquer or sealant to protect the paint from nicks and scratches. This will also add a slight gloss to the piece, a feature that works well in many decorating schemes. Make sure the sealant is dry before moving the piece into the area of the home where it will be used. Show more unanswered questions Depending on the size of the wooden furniture, it may be possible to use an acrylic spray paint to create the look you want. When this is the case, there is usually no need to apply a sealant after painting, as the acrylic will provide adequate protection. One trick that will help minimize the number of coats needed is to add some of the paint to the primer. This makes it possible to create a thicker barrier between the paint and the wood, and minimize the chances of the wood grain bleeding through a single coat of paint. You can scrap paint (with a protective coating) to get a really nice rustic look.