Measure the wall according to the length to determine how many lengths of chair rail molding will be needed. To determine the height of the chair rail, measure the height of the ceiling and divide it by three. The general rule is that the chair rail should be about 1/3 of the way up from the floor (between 32" and 36" for an 8’ ceiling). You can also slide a chair up to the wall and mark where it would hit the wall. Once you've determined the height, use your tape measure and level to make a level line along the whole length of the room. Floors are not always level, so using a level to set your line will ensure that your chair rail will be straight. At your miter saw, mark the molding for your first piece (Image 1). It's simplest to start with an inside corner (or a door or window frame) and use a square (90-degree angle) cut. Cut one piece of molding for each stretch of wall, remembering to use 45-degree angled cuts for the corners (Image 2). If a wall is longer then the length of a single piece of molding, two pieces should be mitered together.
Use opposite 45-degree cuts at the ends that meet to create the miter (connecting each length of molding with a 45-degree mitered edge will create a cleaner, smoother joint). Make sure you position the seam over a wall stud so that the two ends can be nailed into the wood. In most cases, wall studs are spaced 16 inches on center. When all your pieces of molding are cut, begin installing them starting with an inside corner (Image 1). Align the bottom of the molding with the level line you marked earlier. Attach the first piece to the wall with wood glue and then secure it to the wall using a pneumatic nailer and 2 1/2" finishing nails (Image 2). Insert the nails into the high parts of the molding to prevent splitting. As shown in Image 3, the nails should be placed into the molding one above the other. Additionally, the wall or molding might not be perfectly straight, so you may have to maneuver the molding to align it as you go along. When all of the chair rail molding has been installed, use a nail set to recess the nail heads, and then cover up the nail holes with wood filler.
Give the molding a light sanding to smooth the joints and puttied nail holes Apply a bead of paintable caulk to the edge of the molding where it meets the wall, and fill in any other holes or gaps if needed. To finish the project, apply your choice of paint to the chair rail to give it a clean, finished look. Sign up for weekly project ideas and advice from experts Privacy Policy Sign Up for More We love to DIY. You love to DIY. See the latest DIY projects, catch up on trends and meet more cool people who love to create. Make It. Fix It. Learn It. Find It. Get quick inspiration from Made + Remade each week. The Essential Steps to Landscape DesignTry These Plants and Groundcovers 10 Things You Must Know About Landscaping Lush Landscaping Creates Major Curb Appeal How to Design a Great Yard with Landscape Plants How to Landscape a Shady Yard Reducing the Size of a Lawn How to Landscape a Sloping Backyard Some of the Most Desperate Landscapes
Popular Landscaping Groundcovers and ShrubsTo cut the chair rail, you'll need a miter saw and a coping saw with extra blades (they break easily). A finish nailer isn't absolutely necessary but will give you faster, better results.This article will show you how to install chair rail, with tips to make the job go faster and easier and with less wasted material. Chair rail is available in a variety of woods and styles, from inexpensive paint-grade pine to large, very expensiveYou can also make your own chair rail with standard trim or clear “1-by” material. The special-order cherry molding we used cost $5 per ft.The original purpose of chair rail was to protect walls from being damaged by chair backs. Today, this molding is a fast way to stylishly define a dining room, living room or entry hall, especially when used to separate wallpaper from paint, or between two different Sketch out the floor plan of the room, noting the exact length of each section of wall.
Add a foot to each length for waste to get the minimum size you need for each wall. Once you decide on a style, you'll need to do some juggling to make the standard lengths that the lumberyard sells fit the lengths that you need. The best way to keep track of what piece goes where and avoid wasting expensive wood is to make notes on the sketch. Here are some shopping tips: When possible, buy pieces long enough to span the to splice sections (Photo 7). If you plan to stain and varnish the trim, select pieces with similar grain pattern and color. Check each piece for flaws such as splits and tear-out. To avoid heavy sanding, select pieces that have a smooth surface. Watch out for deep “chatter marks” (a wavy surface left by the milling machine). Home centers only carry a few pine and oak chair rails. larger selection, ask about special-order profiles or visit a lumberyard that caters to professional contractors.
Many types and combinations of moldings can be used as chair rail, even if they aren't Also use your sketch to plan the location of coped cuts, so that you don't end up with pieces that have to be coped at both ends. If possible, locate coped pieces on walls where the non-coped end can be marked in place. That way you can shave the coped cut down, or even recut it if you have to, before you cut it to length. Even pros have to tweak their cuts, so leave yourself a little extra wood to work with. Get Better Results With an Air Nailer Until the 1990s, air nailers were so expensive that many carpenters didn't use them. whole lot cheaper now; even if you do only occasional carpentry, they're well worth the investment. Not only can you nail trim faster and easier, but you'll get better-looking results. The skinny nails are less likely to split wood, and they leave smaller holes that are easier to hide.