4,689 posts, read 18,194,078 times 10,425 posts, read 39,362,072 times Originally Posted by cdelena I'm extremely experienced with Blum products. I know the noise you speak of but usually the customer complains and we replace it. Blum is warrantied for life but how to take advantage of a defective product is beyond me but we just have many extras and just do it for the sake of good customer service. That black plastic part means it's a bit old. They no longer have that. You should replace them all but DO NOT buy them from the big orange or blue who only want's your little green. They probably don't even have them but if they do they'd be about $5 each. Go to a woodworkers store like Woodworkers Emporium or Rocklers and you can get them for about $1.20 each. The bore will be standard so don't worry bout that. It's a 32MM or 1 1/16". While your at it, Blum now makes soft close hinges. I don't know what they cost as we just order them with the cabinet already installed so I never saw a price.
244 posts, read 568,875 times Go to a woodworkers store like Woodworkers Emporium or Rocklers and you can get them for about $1.20 each.Have you ever bought hardware from either of those places. I don't think they have anything for 1.20. I just looked at the face frame hinge at Rocklers and it was 6 something a pair. Have you contacted Blum to see if they will replace the hinges for free? Blum does warranty their hinges. Originally Posted by MCS1 Oops yes ya got me. I love Woodworkers Emporium and Rocklers. I should have said Louis & Co. Yes indeed they are a dollar twenty cents each at Louis & Co. I believe they are very near you actually. 1 posts, read 4,807 times Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.Home & GardenHome ImprovementKitchen & Bath RemodelingHow to Fix Sagging Cabinet Doors
How to Fix Sagging Cabinet Doors Cabinet doors sag when a screw or hinge comes loose, when the hardware is damaged, or when the wood underneath the hinge is stripped or gouged by a loose screw. You need a screwdriver. (A helper makes it easier to hold the door in position while you work.) Here’s what to do: If the top hinge is loose, push the door up and back to straighten the door. The bottom hinge rarely goes bad because there’s no pressure on it, but if the screws are loose, tighten them. Tighten the screws while your helper holds the door in that position. If you don’t have a helper, prop it up with your foot and lean into the door while you tighten the screws. Let the door hang by itself. Open and close the door several times to make sure the screws don’t work loose right away. If they do, then the screw holes need repair. If you can’t get the hinge secured, back the screws all the way out, take off the hinge, and look at the wood beneath it.
If the hole is too large or has been stripped, you need to fill it in and then drill a new hole. You need a drill, a screwdriver, toothpicks, and a liquid white glue such as Elmer’s. Squirt some liquid glue into the hole. Stuff the hole with toothpicks until it won’t take any more, and then cut or break them off flush. You can repair surface mars or dents with wood filler, but filler won’t hold screws. They need to be inserted in wood, and if the hole is too large, it should be filled with toothpicks first. Drill a pilot hole through the toothpicks, using a bit that’s much smaller than the circumference of the screw. With a screwdriver, put the screw back in. If the screw is stripped, put in a replacement that’s the same size. Let the glue dry. After your hinges are secure, keep them that way. Periodically tighten the screws, but don’t overdo it. And lubricate the hinge. A drop or two of WD-40 on each is sufficient. You don’t want the lubricant dripping down the doorframe.
Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question The best answers are voted up and rise to the top I have a nice wood cabinet that lost a small chunk of wood from the front door in a recent move. Naturally, that chunk of wood was on the exterior where it's plainly visible and where the lower hinge attaches, thereby rendering the door inoperable. The missing piece is thin, about 1/4 inch deep at most. All I can think to do is replace the missing piece with wood filler, sand and stain, and drill new holes for the hinge screws. And then hope for the best and pray everyone is very gentle with that door. It seems unlikely to me that wood filler will hold well because it's a surface repair and therefore wouldn't stand up under the strain of being attached to a hinge. Are there other options? How can I repair this piece? Exterior view showing the missing piece: It seems unlikely to me that wood filler will hold well because it's a surface repair and therefore wouldn't stand up under the strain of being attached to a hinge.
Well there's wood filler and there's wood filler. There are few commercial varieties that would be suitable for a repair of this nature, but that's simply because they're primarily intended for filling of minor surface defects that don't require anything in the way of structural strength. Although there are better solutions than filling as a general principle, if you did want to try filling a far stronger compound than most commercial wood fillers can be made at home very easily, by mixing wood flour (sanding dust) with standard two-part epoxy glue. At best this bonds extremely well and is incredibly tough (much harder than the wood it replaces in actual fact) but it's still not the ideal fix in a location like this. Replacing missing wood with wood is far preferable as a rule where strength is required. Although it seems like taking a step in the wrong direction the first step is to remove more wood, but you have to create neat clean edges that allow for an exactly matching repair patch to be successfully glued to.
In this case sawing out a rectangular piece just long enough to remove all splintered wood is probably the way to go. Instead of marking out two rectangles, on the door and on the replacement wood, and then cutting both it is better to cut the notch from the door first and then mark your replacement wood directly from it; this is far more likely to result in a tight-fitting repair. Although a repair of this nature is quite simple to do there are two main difficulties usually encountered: Finding wood that matches the existing furniture can be challenging at the best of times and is impossible at others, so sometimes you have to resign yourself to a close-enough match that is lighter in colour and then use wood dye or stain to achieve a closer colour match before final finishing. Finish repair is actually the largest hurdle in some ways. Many film finishes, such as this is likely to be coated in, are considered unrepairable so that stripping the whole panel would normally be the minimum that is advised, or the entire piece of furniture in some cases.
I would suggest that you try the former first and strip the door (which would already be removed from the cabinet making stripping easier), then try to match the existing finish across the door and its patch. How best to match the existing finish would be a good follow-on Question. To best answer it more (and ideally better-quality) photos of the piece may be required. The good news is that your door has a very simple profile, at least that's what it looks like in the pictures. To fix it, cut out a slighly larger rectangle that extends just past the fractured surface. Then make a patch the same size as the cutout, preferably from the same species of wood, with a similar grain pattern. Then glue and clamp it in place. If you want to go the extra mile, you could rout a tongue and groove on the top and bottom sides to help with alignment and strength, since those edges will be end grain joins. A technique I like using which can be applied to several problems such as yours is to fill the chipped-out area with Bondo(as in autobody filler).
If the chip out is shallow I like to drill little 1/8 inch holes about 1/8 inch deep to give the Bondo multiple sites to grab onto so the repair wont fall out. Bondo sands beautifully if you use a nicely sized sanding block to shape the repair and prime and paint the repair it should be be almost invisible forever. If you need to put screws into the Bondo repair I suggest drilling and tapping the mounting hole(s) as Bondo is somewhat brittle so be careful. If you are new to this idea try a sample repair on a separate piece of wood just to get a feel for it. there are two parts to this the cosmetic and the structural. first remove the door. the cosmetic goes two ways . if you have the piece all the better use a block of poly or a poly ethelyne sheet with a wood block to press down the on top of the piece with gorilla glue or titebond III WITH CLAMPS held fast.. if not then locate a scrap of the same kind of wood, sand/grind the broken area out with a 4.5 inch angle sander grinder (dewalt paddle is my fav) and make a new piece that will mirror the divot.