WM 390 9/16 in. x 2-5/8 in. x 96 in. Wood Red Oak Chair Rail MouldingTo cut the chair rail, you'll need a miter saw and a coping saw with extra blades (they break easily). A finish nailer isn't absolutely necessary but will give you faster, better results.This article will show you how to install chair rail, with tips to make the job go faster and easier and with less wasted material. Chair rail is available in a variety of woods and styles, from inexpensive paint-grade pine to large, very expensiveYou can also make your own chair rail with standard trim or clear “1-by” material. The special-order cherry molding we used cost $5 per ft.The original purpose of chair rail was to protect walls from being damaged by chair backs. Today, this molding is a fast way to stylishly define a dining room, living room or entry hall, especially when used to separate wallpaper from paint, or between two different Sketch out the floor plan of the room, noting the exact length of each section of wall.
Add a foot to each length for waste to get the minimum size you need for each wall. Once you decide on a style, you'll need to do some juggling to make the standard lengths that the lumberyard sells fit the lengths that you need. The best way to keep track of what piece goes where and avoid wasting expensive wood is to make notes on the sketch. Here are some shopping tips: When possible, buy pieces long enough to span the to splice sections (Photo 7). If you plan to stain and varnish the trim, select pieces with similar grain pattern and color. Check each piece for flaws such as splits and tear-out. To avoid heavy sanding, select pieces that have a smooth surface. Watch out for deep “chatter marks” (a wavy surface left by the milling machine). Home centers only carry a few pine and oak chair rails. larger selection, ask about special-order profiles or visit a lumberyard that caters to professional contractors.
Many types and combinations of moldings can be used as chair rail, even if they aren't Also use your sketch to plan the location of coped cuts, so that you don't end up with pieces that have to be coped at both ends. If possible, locate coped pieces on walls where the non-coped end can be marked in place. That way you can shave the coped cut down, or even recut it if you have to, before you cut it to length. Even pros have to tweak their cuts, so leave yourself a little extra wood to work with. Get Better Results With an Air Nailer Until the 1990s, air nailers were so expensive that many carpenters didn't use them. whole lot cheaper now; even if you do only occasional carpentry, they're well worth the investment. Not only can you nail trim faster and easier, but you'll get better-looking results. The skinny nails are less likely to split wood, and they leave smaller holes that are easier to hide.
Hammer dents and bent nails are no longer a concern. Watch video of this step. Originally chair rails were installed to prevent wall damage from seat backs. Today they are mostly a room decoration with architectural proportion now playing the main factor in determining the height and style. In general, chair rail should match the room's existing baseboard and trim. Chair rail can be placed anywhere from 30 to 36 inches up from the floor. To determine the correct chair rail height, consider two factors: chair height and wall height. According to today’s architectural standards, the average height of side chairs is 31 inches, but most modern dining chairs have seat backs closer to 34 inches, and ornamental dining chairs are often taller. You can slide your own chairs up to the wall and mark where the backs touch, but if you ever replace those chairs this measurement could become moot. If chair heights don’t matter, simply divide the height of your ceiling by three, then install the rail at the top of the lower third.
In a room with standard 8-foot-high ceiling, this will place the chair rail 32 to 35 inches from the floor; In a 10-foot-tall room (120 inches), this measurement equates to 40 inches. When you've determined your chair rail height, use a tape measure and level to mark a level line around the room. Floors are not always level, especially in older homes, so using a level will ensure that your chair rail will look straight. A laser level (which can be rented), makes this job easier and more accurate. To determine how many linear feet of chair rail molding you will need, measure the total length of each wall. Try to buy long lengths that will reach from corner to corner or from wall corners to door or window jambs. This will allow you to use square (90-degree) cuts at each end, which are easier than angled miter cuts. Start by marking all the wall studs. In most cases, wall studs are spaced 16 inches on center, or use an electronic stud finder (image 1) to precisely locate them.
If a wall is longer than the length of a single piece of molding, you’ll need to create an “invisible” lap joint (image 2) by mitering the end of the first piece and the beginning of a second piece with opposite (mating) 45-degree angles. When the pieces are joined, the seam will be less visible than a square-butt joint. Make sure to position this joint over a wall stud so that both ends can be nailed into the wood. Use wood glue and finish nails to secure the joint. Where two chair rail pieces meet at an inside corner, one piece is cut square and butted into the wall, while the other piece must be coped to closely fit the intersecting molding’s profile (image 3). To make a coping cut, first miter the rail end at a 45-degree angle so that the cut is facing outward. Then use a coping saw to back-cut along the edge of the miter cut, closely following the molding’s profile (image 4). This takes some practice, but when done correctly the second chair rail piece will fit perfectly over the first, hiding the joint.
For outside corners, both intersecting chair rails are mitered to a matching 45-degree angle, then glued and nailed together (image 5). Because wall corners are not always square, some trial-and-error cutting and test-fitting may be necessary to obtain a precise fit. Use scrap pieces to first test each corner then adjust your miter angles as needed. Begin the installation at an inside corner. Cut your first piece square so that it will butt tightly against the corner. Apply a continuous bead of construction adhesive to the back of the chair rail, then align the bottom of the molding with your level line on the wall. Use a pneumatic nailer or hammer with 2-1/2 inch finishing nails to attach the chair rail to the wall (image 6). Insert the nails through the thick parts of the molding to prevent the wood from splitting. Place two nails, one high and one low, at each intersection with a wall stud, and be sure the nails hit the stud to firmly secure the rail to the wall. Begin nailing at one end of the rail and work your way along to bend and straighten any waviness in the molding.
Because the wall itself might not be perfectly straight, gaps may occur between the rail and the wall, especially between the studs. These gaps can be filled later. When all of the chair rail molding has been installed, use a hammer and nail set to recess the nail heads (image 1), then patch the nail holes with wood filler. Also fill any gaps between the rail and wall with a paintable adhesive caulk (image 2). Lightly sand and smooth the joints and puttied nail holes To finish the project, apply your choice of paint to the chair rail to give it a clean, finished look. Sign up for weekly project ideas and advice from experts Privacy Policy Sign Up for More We love to DIY. You love to DIY. See the latest DIY projects, catch up on trends and meet more cool people who love to create. Make It. Fix It. Learn It. Find It. Get quick inspiration from Made + Remade each week. The Essential Steps to Landscape DesignTry These Plants and Groundcovers 10 Things You Must Know About Landscaping