About Best Sellers in Door Closers These lists, updated hourly, contain bestselling items. Here you can discover the best Door Closers in Amazon Best Sellers, and find the top 100 most popular Amazon Door Closers. NATIONAL MFG/SPECTRUM BRANDS HHI {"inactiveBuffer":2,"currentIndex":0,"activeBuffer":2,"widgetClass":"CollapsingPagingWidget","showSinglePage":false,"pageSize":16,"paging_view_by_page":"View By Page","paging_view_all":"View All 46 Items","persistentStorage":"true","paging_next":"≫","viewModeBeforePages":true,"defaultTotalItems":46,"paging_previous":"≪","totalItems":46,"showXofYLabel":false,"triggerPageChanged":false,"defaultPageSize":16} View All 46 Items RelevancePrice - Low to HighPrice - High to LowName - A to ZName - Z to AHighest Rated {"currentIndex":0,"inactiveBuffer":2,"activeBuffer":2,"widgetClass":"CollapsingPagingWidget","showSinglePage":false,"pageSize":16,"paging_view_by_page":"View By Page","paging_view_all":"View All Items","persistentStorage":"true","paging_next":"≫","viewModeBeforePages":true,"paging_previous":"≪","showXofYLabel":false,"triggerPageChanged":false,"defaultPageSize":16}
Screen & Storm Door Closer, Posi-Glide, Aluminum Screen & Storm Door Closer, Adjustable, Satin Black Screen & Storm Door Closer, Hydraulic, Aluminum Screen & Storm Door Closer, Adjustable, Aluminum Screen & Storm Door Closer, Hydraulic, Satin Black Screen & Storm Door Closer, Adjustable, White Screen & Door Closer, Posi-Glide, Satin Black Storm King Pneumatic Door Closer, Aluminum Screen Door Closer, Pneumatic, Black Screen Door Closer, Pneumatic, Aluminum Screen & Storm Door Closer, Pneumatic, Adjustable, White Screen & Storm Door Closer, Pneumatic, Adjustable, Florida Bronze Screen & Storm Door Closer, Posi-Glide, White Screen & Storm Door Closer, Hydraulic, White Touch N' Hold Door Closer, Satin Black Touch N' Hold Door Closer, WhiteON very windy days - which have been plentiful in this area in the last month or two - a sudden gust will sometimes catch the outside storm door with such violence as people enter or leave that it rips the door handle out of a person's hand.
The door then swings open so fast that it tears out the wood screws that held the door-closer (hydraulic or pneumatic) fastened in place against the door jamb (frame). Although the closer is also secured to the door at its other end with screws, in most cases it is the screws that are used to mount the door-closer against the jamb that let go because the pull on these screws is straight out. The direction of pull on the screws going into the face of the door is at a right angle to the wood or metal, so these can withstand greater stress. Unfortunately, when the screws do pull out of the door jamb, they also tear up the wood and rip out the holes to such an extent that you cannot simply replace the screws and retighten them. Even if you try filling the holes with wood plugs or matchsticks, in most cases the wood is so badly torn up that the wood screws will no longer hold as they should and will probably rip out again the next time the door is opened too wide, or the next time it is caught by another strong gust of wind.
Skilled carpenters usually make such repairs by cutting out the torn section of door jamb, then carefully fitting a new piece of solid wood in its place. But this takes more-than-average woodworking skills and still leaves you with only two or three closely spaced screws holding the end of the door closer in place. That is why most home handymen will find it quicker, easier and actually better in terms of durability to make the needed repairs by using one of the two techniques illustrated here. The first method involves adding a wooden ''patch'' over the damaged area to create a solid wood surface against which the doorcloser's base plate can be screwed. After filling in the old holes in with a wood plastic or patching compound of some kind, cut a piece of three-quarters-inch-thick wood that is about 10 to 12 inches long and the same width as the section of door jamb on which the door closer was originally mounted. Paint both sides and all edges of this piece of wood, and when the paint is dry spread a thin bead of caulking compound around the perimeter of the back side (the side that will fit against the door jamb) to keep water from getting behind it.
Press this into place against the door jamb so that it is centered over the damaged area, then use at least six screws to fasten it in place as shown in the drawing - three near the top end and three near the bottom (two of the three are in each corner of the board; the third is on the center line but about three to four inches away from the end). Now you can remount the door closer by screwing its base to the face of the new board. Since the added thickness of this board will move the closer slightly closer to the door, you will have to also remount the other end of the unit where it attaches to the door. The second method involves using a sheet of heavy aluminum (at least one-eighth inch in thickness) or a sheet of galvanized metal (at least one-sixteenth inch in thickness), instead of using another piece of wood. The metal should be about the same width as the exposed face of the door jamb and at least 8 to 10 inches in length. Hold this in place against the mounting base or plate of the door closer, and use a sharp pencil to mark the location of each hole in the mounting plate.
Then drill matching holes through the piece of metal so you can use small round head bolts to fasten this plate to the mounting base of the door closer, as shown in the accompanying drawing (the nuts should be on the outside -that is, the side you will see when the plate is fastened in place against the door frame). Next, drill holes for the wood screws that will have to go through this piece of metal so you can fasten it in place against the door jamb -three holes near the upper end, and three holes near the lower end as described above. Fill in the old holes (the main reason for filling in these holes is to keep water out), then screw the metal in place against the door jamb so the door closer will be remounted in its original position. This will actually provide a much stronger mounting since the closer is now fastened to the metal with bolts and therefore cannot pull away - unless it also pulls the metal patch off with it. But the metal is held in place with six wood screws, instead of the two or three that are normally used to mount the average door closer, so it, too, provides a much stronger mounting base.
Q. I glued some blotting paper to the bottom of a large vase to keep it from scratching the ebony finish on my grand piano. I used rubber cement to paste this on, and a couple of days later I was horrified to discover that the rubber cement had apparently bled through the blotting paper and blistered the finish on my piano, leaving a 6-inch ring. Is there any way I can refinish this small area without making an even greater mess? - G.S., Ridgefield, Conn. A. Frankly, I think this is a job for a professional furniture finisher - though it's possible that even he might have a problem unless he refinished the whole top. I am not sure what you mean by an ebony finish, but if it is truly an opaque black paint or lacquer (not just a very dark mahogany stain) then you may be able to camouflage the stain by carefully rubbing over it with a little with very fine steel wool that has been dipped into black lacquer. Another trick that works to hide many discolorations on most stained or lacquered finishes is to rub on some black or ''oxblood'' colored shoe polish.