78.75-in Matte Black Steel Top Mount Sliding Barn Door Kit Item # 621163 Model # BD102K-07800-MB-NL Lifestyle/in-use image - accessories not included Decorative bent strap barn door hardware system features a modern face mount bent strap to hang wood doors on a traditional rail track Barn door hardware has a matte black finish and is made of steel Decorative hardware supports single door with a thickness of 1-3/8-in; maximum weight up to 250 lbs Ideal for openings up to 36-in wide and openings wider than 36-in require multiple tracks Wheels provide excellent strength and durability as well as smoothness of travel along the rail Anti-jump discs prevent hanger wheels from jumping off the track All mounting hardware included Maximum Door Thickness (Inches) Maximum Weight Capacity (lbs.) Total Number of PiecesSliding ModernModern DoorsModern Barn Door IdeasDiy Barn Doors In The House HardwareFarm Doors IdeasElegant Barn DoorDen Door IdeasContemporary Barn DoorsContemporary 4ForwardSliding barn door.
Replace awkward entries and gain space in closets with sliding modern barn doors. Detailed instruction on how to install, what to buy and plans to build the door inexpensively.A sliding, or barn-style, door is a creative way to separate two living spaces and add privacy with style. Here are things to consider for this project and the installation basics. Fit the Door to the Opening Consider the space where you would like to add a door. Is there room next to the door equal to the door opening itself for the door to slide over? Is the sliding area clear of light switches, outlets, air vents, windows, or doors? Good to KnowHow often will you use the door? Much like a pocket door, these doors function best when they’ll remain open or closed most of the time. Otherwise, a swinging door may be a better choice. Follow the downloadable guidelines (Project Diagram, Drawing 1) to determine the best door size. Stock doors are available up to 36 inches wide and 80 inches tall.
For an opening up to 72 inches wide, place a door on each side of the opening. You can also special order doors in larger sizes. The final option is to build your own door and finish it to suit your decor. For a standard single door, first account for any casing around the opening. The door width should be 2 inches wider than the opening, or at least as wide as the full opening plus any casing. For the height of the door, measure from the finished floor to the top of the opening, or to the top of the casing. Read the following section for steps to hang the door. Good to KnowFor openings where you are going to use two doors instead of one, divide the new calculated door width by two; the height remains the same as for a single door. Hang the Sliding Door Track Most installations will require a hanger board or ledger on the wall to mount the door track; it also creates space for the new sliding door away from the wall to clear the trim. Cut a board twice as long as the door width (Project Diagram, Drawing 1).
A 2 x 6 will work for most homes, it should be at least as thick as the trim. Good to KnowThe track comes in stock lengths, if you choose; you can leave the track full length or cut it to the desired length with a hack saw. If you choose not to cut the track, the hanger board will need to match its length. Mount the board 2 inches above the door opening or above the top of the door casing -- check the hardware manufacturer’s instructions for additional requirements. Secure the hanger board to wall studs with flathead screws driven slightly below the surface of the wood. Fill the screw heads with wood filler and paint the hanger board to match the wall color. The board can also receive a clear finish, or be stained to match the door. Purchase a track the length of the hanger board (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). When hanging a double door, use either one continuous track or two equal lengths with the joint centered over the door opening (Project Diagram, Drawing 3).
For the hangers, you will install a hanger bracket that connects the two rails, or use two hanger brackets. Install three brackets for a single door, five for a double door, or six if there’s no connector bracket. Slip the brackets onto the track and then hang the track with the bottom of the track even with the bottom of the hanger board. Fasten the brackets with the manufacturer’s recommended hardware. Adjust the hanger hardware to level the door in the opening. The door should have 1 inch of clearance between the bottom of the door and the finished flooring. Mount the roller hardware on the door and place the rollers into or on the track. At each end of the track install the roller stops, then adjust the stops to align the operation of the door with your opening. Add handles for sliding the door. On the track side, a full handle works best. On the other side, drill for a recessed cup pull that will clear the door opening or trim when you slide the door open.If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now.
They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware! You guys already know what happened next: John thoughtfully examined the hardware and announced, "I can TOTALLY make that." And so he did: The total cost for this door - wood and hardware combined - was less than $100. LESS THAN $100, YOU GUYS. Metal rails & tubing - $25 If you already have the door, then that's only $55 for the hardware - $55 versus $400. It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. (If you're making the door, you'll also need a circular saw - or a hand saw and a whole bunch of patience. :D)
So...you ready for this?! Then let's get to it. There are several ways to make a simple plank door. We used exterior tongue-and-groove board normally used for house siding: (The opposite side is a classic bead board.) Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries. The three skinny boards you see on top there aren't attached; they're just there to act as a brace for the straps and to make sure the door doesn't bend: Lock those straps down tight! Once the glue has dried the next day, attach cross-boards to the door, if you like. (You don't have to, but they do add extra support & visual interest.) Here I've also distressed my door by banging it up with a hammer and screw: Now stain or paint the door to your preference: I stained mine to match the cabinet doors we just made. Now, on to the hardware! You'll need two 2.5 inch pulleys that look like this: Lowe's and Home Depot didn't have them, but John finally tracked some down at Ace Hardware.
(I also found some here on Amazon for about $13 each.) The only part of the pulley you need is the center wheel, though, so pull the center pin and pop that out: Now take a bar of 1.5 inch solid steel (available at any hardware store), and stick one end of it in a table vise: Bend it down as you see John doing here. (This really doesn't require a lot of strength; the leverage of the bar does all the work for you.) The hook you've just made is what's going to hold your wheel. You need to clean up the hook shape, though, so next remove it from the vise and bang the bend flat with a hammer: You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Odds are you'll have to flatten it a bit too far, so now pry the hook back up a bit: ...and then slip the pulley casing in to get the distance right: Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up.
Now test the fit with your wheel; it should fit perfectly, with just the right amount of wiggle room on either side of the wheel: That's one bracket done! Now cut your bar to whatever length your door requires: And repeat the whole process for bracket number two. (You can see here that John bent both hooks on either side of the bar and then just cut it in half.) You may also want to grind down your cut edges, in case they're too sharp. When you have both brackets ready, it's time to attach the wheels. Drill a hole straight through each hook, piercing both layers of steel: Your wheel will be supported by a pin placed through these holes. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door.If you plan to paint your hardware, now's the time to do it!
We used a flat black metal primer. (I plan to age it with a little sanding later.) Attach your bar brackets to your door. I didn't grab a photo before we hung the door, but here's a close-up of the hardware: Now all that's left is the rolly bar! This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it. Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. Now my lovely hand model will demonstrate how this bar will attach to your wall: Ok, so here you've got a honkin' (technical term) concrete anchor in John's right hand. That goes in the wall. That long screw sticking out goes in the anchor. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. The tube acts as your spacer - very important. Each of the holes you drilled in your bar will have this same set up.