FREE SHIPPING ON QUALIFYING ORDERS $49 OR MORE Prices, promotions, styles, and availability may vary. Our local stores do not honor online pricing. Prices and availability of products and services are subject to change without notice. Errors will be corrected where discovered, and Lowe's reserves the right to revoke any stated offer and to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions including after an order has been submitted.Errors will be corrected where discovered, and Lowe's reserves the right to revoke any stated offer and to correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions including after an order has been submitted. This door is easy to build to fit your opening. Once you know how big the door needs to be, adjust the length of the stiles and the top/bottom rails to the desired lengths. The crossbar is cut to fit the actual door. The car siding is designed to have one board centered in the door panel and then fit the boards toward each side, all cut to fit the door as it is built.
Cut the stiles (A) and top/bottom rails (B) to size (Project Diagram, Cutting List and Cutting Diagram). Sand the parts with 120-grit and 180-grit sandpaper. (A random-orbit sander makes quick work of this.) At the end of the top/bottom rails, drill pocket holes to receive the pocket-hole screws (Project Diagram, Drawing 1) using a pocket-hole jig. Good to KnowDrill pocket holes to leave space for the door hardware. On the top rail, drill two closely spaced holes near the bottom edge of the board. On the bottom rail, drill two holes about 1 inch from both the top and bottom edge of the board. Align the top/bottom rails (B) with the ends of the stiles (A) (Project Diagram, Drawing 1). Add glue and drive the pocket-hole screws to make the frame. Draw a centered line down the board for the crossbar (C). Slip it under the frame and align the mark with the inside corner of the frame. At both ends, trace the shape of the frame on the crossbar. Clamp a pocket-hole jig to the stile near the corner and drill a pocket hole on the back face of the frame.
Repeat on the diagonally opposite end. Using a jigsaw, cut the crossbar and sand the edges smooth. The bar does not have to be a perfect fit -- ease the edges where it meets the frame to create a rustic look that helps hide imperfections in the jigsaw cut. Glue and screw the crossbar to the stiles. Cut two 1 x 2 boards to match the height of the door for the edging (D). Glue the edging to the sides of the door with the outside edge flush with the outside edge of the frame stiles (Project Diagram, Drawing 2). The edging creates a smooth edge along the door and conceals the edges of the siding boards. Cut car-siding boards to match the height of the door for the siding (E), and the siding filler strips (F). Measure the distance between the edging and subtract 1/4 inch from the overall width of the siding, this will allow the siding to install easier. To center the siding board pattern in the door opening (Project Diagram, Drawing 2) combine the widths of the five siding boards and mark equal amounts to be trimmed from the two siding filler strips (F) (Project Diagram, Drawing 2).
Assemble the siding boards between the edging and secure them to the frame with 1-1/4-inch drywall screws. Use a scrap and mark a diagonal across the door going in the same angle direction as the crossbar. Use the line to position screws and drive to secure the siding boards to the crossbar. Tape around the area where you’ll notch the top of the door to receive the hardware. Mark out and cut the notches with a jigsaw (Project Diagram, Drawing 3). Position the roller bracket on the door, use the holes in the hanger to locate and drill holes for the bolts. Attach the hardware pushing the head of the bolts from the backside, and use the nuts and washers on the front. The rounded heads of the bolts protrude less on the backside preventing them from scraping the wall. Remove the hardware and sand any rough edges. If you are going to paint, apply a stain blocking primer prior to applying paint to seal any of the knots in the pine. Finish with the paint of your choice (Mark Twain House Yellow, #3011-3 shown).
See More Sliding DoorsSliding ModernModern DoorsModern Barn Door IdeasDiy Barn Doors In The House HardwareFarm Doors IdeasElegant Barn DoorDen Door IdeasContemporary Barn DoorsContemporary 4ForwardSliding barn door. Replace awkward entries and gain space in closets with sliding modern barn doors. Detailed instruction on how to install, what to buy and plans to build the door inexpensively. 78.75-in Matte Black Steel Top Mount Sliding Barn Door Kit Item # 621163 Model # BD102K-07800-MB-NL Lifestyle/in-use image - accessories not included for pricing and availability. Decorative bent strap barn door hardware system features a modern face mount bent strap to hang wood doors on a traditional rail track Barn door hardware has a matte black finish and is made of steel Decorative hardware supports single door with a thickness of 1-3/8-in; maximum weight up to 250 lbs Ideal for openings up to 36-in wide and openings wider than 36-in require multiple tracks
Wheels provide excellent strength and durability as well as smoothness of travel along the rail Anti-jump discs prevent hanger wheels from jumping off the track All mounting hardware included Maximum Door Thickness (Inches) Maximum Weight Capacity (lbs.) Total Number of Pieces Community Q & AIf you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware! You guys already know what happened next: John thoughtfully examined the hardware and announced, "I can TOTALLY make that." And so he did:
The total cost for this door - wood and hardware combined - was less than $100. LESS THAN $100, YOU GUYS. Metal rails & tubing - $25 If you already have the door, then that's only $55 for the hardware - $55 versus $400. It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. (If you're making the door, you'll also need a circular saw - or a hand saw and a whole bunch of patience. :D) So...you ready for this?! Then let's get to it. There are several ways to make a simple plank door. We used exterior tongue-and-groove board normally used for house siding: (The opposite side is a classic bead board.) Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries. The three skinny boards you see on top there aren't attached; they're just there to act as a brace for the straps and to make sure the door doesn't bend:
Lock those straps down tight! Once the glue has dried the next day, attach cross-boards to the door, if you like. (You don't have to, but they do add extra support & visual interest.) Here I've also distressed my door by banging it up with a hammer and screw: Now stain or paint the door to your preference: I stained mine to match the cabinet doors we just made. Now, on to the hardware! You'll need two 2.5 inch pulleys that look like this: Lowe's and Home Depot didn't have them, but John finally tracked some down at Ace Hardware. (I also found some here on Amazon for about $13 each.) The only part of the pulley you need is the center wheel, though, so pull the center pin and pop that out: Now take a bar of 1.5 inch solid steel (available at any hardware store), and stick one end of it in a table vise: Bend it down as you see John doing here. (This really doesn't require a lot of strength; the leverage of the bar does all the work for you.)
The hook you've just made is what's going to hold your wheel. You need to clean up the hook shape, though, so next remove it from the vise and bang the bend flat with a hammer: You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Odds are you'll have to flatten it a bit too far, so now pry the hook back up a bit: ...and then slip the pulley casing in to get the distance right: Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Now test the fit with your wheel; it should fit perfectly, with just the right amount of wiggle room on either side of the wheel: That's one bracket done! Now cut your bar to whatever length your door requires: And repeat the whole process for bracket number two. (You can see here that John bent both hooks on either side of the bar and then just cut it in half.) You may also want to grind down your cut edges, in case they're too sharp.
When you have both brackets ready, it's time to attach the wheels. Drill a hole straight through each hook, piercing both layers of steel: Your wheel will be supported by a pin placed through these holes. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door.If you plan to paint your hardware, now's the time to do it! We used a flat black metal primer. (I plan to age it with a little sanding later.) Attach your bar brackets to your door. I didn't grab a photo before we hung the door, but here's a close-up of the hardware: Now all that's left is the rolly bar! This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it.
Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. Now my lovely hand model will demonstrate how this bar will attach to your wall: Ok, so here you've got a honkin' (technical term) concrete anchor in John's right hand. That goes in the wall. That long screw sticking out goes in the anchor. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. The tube acts as your spacer - very important. Each of the holes you drilled in your bar will have this same set up. When it's installed, your bar should look something like this: Note again that the bolts are located on the lower third of the bar, not the middle. This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them. Ok, so get this: YOU'RE DONE! All you have to do is lift your door into place on the track, and get to sliding! That's all the stuff it's covering up: pretty much our entire pantry.
The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us. Finally - no more clutter, and no more dusty cereal boxes! Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. You can also install a stop on the rolly bar itself, though. Totally up to you. I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. There may be some slight differences, but overall it's the same techniques we used. (And I found it - where else? - on Pinterest. Well, hope you guys liked seeing the next stage of our laundry room makeover! We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater.