A while back I created plans for an outdoor patio bar with a concrete top. I promised a follow up video and tutorial on how to build super simple bar stools. So… here it is! I modified plans from Georgia over at MoreLikehome.net to fit my patio bar. The main modifications I made were to the overall height and to how the seat boards attach. Click here to check out Georgia’s detailed plans and drawings! Our tutorials will show you how to make bar stools with just a few tools and materials. Please download her plans and feel free to use my drawings as reference if you’d like to build the bar stools that are the right height and the matching set for the patio bar tutorial in episode 15. The links for tools listed in this post are affiliate links. Thank you for your support 🙂 Miter Saw – Optional Clamps (Optional) Use my JackClamp coupon code to get $5 off any order over $50 –Code: DIYPETE5 Safety Glasses, Ear Protection, and Rubber Gloves, Paint Brush QTY: 4 – 2x4x8 Cedar Lumber
QTY: 1 – Box of blue 2 1/2 inch Kreg Screws QTY: 1 – Box of 2 1/2 inch Wood Screws QTY: 1 – Exterior Grade Wood Glue (I use the Gorilla Glue Brand) QTY: 1 – Helmsman Spar Urethane from Minwax Use a miter saw, circular saw, or hand saw to cut the lumber for the bar stool. Overall Chair Dimmensions: 18″ wide, 42″ tall, 16″ deep — Seat height 30″ Qty 2: 42″ (back legs) Qty 2: 28 1/2″ (front legs) Qty 6: 11″ (back and front boards) Qty 4: 13″ (side boards) Qty 2: 14 1/2″ (outside seat boards) Qty 3: 16″ (inside seat boards) Qty 2: 15″ (seat supports) Drill pocket holes in all of the boards except the legs and seat boards. Use a Kreg Jig and set it to the 1 1/2 inch setting on both the jig and the stop collar on the bit. Use 2 1/2 inch Kreg Screws to attach the front and rear sections of the chair. I’d recommend using wood glue as well. Here is a diagram showing how the front and rear ladders are constructed.
Next attach the four side boards. This will connect the front ladder to the rear ladder. Use a clamp to hold the boards together if needed. I have a set of JackClamps that I use for most projects. Use 2 1/2 inch kreg screws to attach the two 15 inch seat supports. Once complete, attach the seat boards to the supports from the underside using 2 1/2 inch wood screws. Prior to attaching the seat boards you can lay them out evenly on the top side and glue into place. Let the glue dry and then flip it upside down to attach the boards with the 2 1/2 inch screws. This will make it easy to space out the boards. Plus, you won’t have screw holes showing from the top side. Protect and make your new bar stools shine by brushing on a couple coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane from Minwax. If you’d prefer another color or added protection I’d recommend using a deck or fence stain. Thank you for stopping by to check out the super simple bar stool tutorial! Please share and pin this project if you liked it or inspired you to start creating. T
Lastly, if you want to learn how to make the matching bar and concrete top please check out the downloadable plans! I created the plans because I was having a hard time finding ideas and plans to make a unique bar to put out on my deck. So, I did something about it and created the most in-depth video and tutorial online about how to make a cedar patio bar with a concrete top and LED lights. For the FREE printable plans with all the dimensions and even more details simply enter your email address below! Download the Free Patio Bar Plans. Click here or on the image below.How To Build Bar StoolsDiy Pallet Bar StoolsDiy Bar Stools IdeasDiy Counter StoolsBar Stool DiyDiy StoolsDyi BarIsland StoolsIsland CounterForwardTutorial on how to make these stools, and a farmhouse table. She seaside she only spent $220 on all the materials!1 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long 2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long 1 – 1x3 @ 3 feet long 2 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long 1 ¼” PH screws 2 ½” PH screws (8)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. 4 – 1x2 @ 8” 2 – 1x2 @ 7 ¼” 2 – 1x3 @ 15” 1 – 1x2 @ 15” 2 – 1x4 @ 15” 2 – 2x2 @ 45” 2 – 1x4 @ 16” 2 – 2x2 @ 29 ¼” 2 – 2x2 @ 15” 2 – 2x2 @ 16” 5 – 1x4 @ 18” 8 – 1x4 @ 3 ½” Build the back as shown above. TIP: If you drill ¾” PHs facing UPWARD on inside of aprons, you can use those PHs later on to attach seat.
Also, if you feel the stool needs it, you can add corner bracing at this step.A tip I learned from Patrick Hosey is to drill a PH on two different sides to create the best joint on a 2x2 :) Now add the seat. If you followed along and drilled the PHs in the aprons in step 2, attach with 1 1/4" PH screws from underneath. Now this will be a little challenge - cutting all the little pieces out with a jigsaw. Just remember, this is supposed to have a vintage look :) So be proud of your work!2X4 StoolsBars StoolsOutdoor StoolsOutdoor BarstoolCounter StoolsShop StoolsDiy Wooden Bar Stools2X4 Bar Stools DiyPallet Barstools DiyForwardHow to Make Super Simple Bar Stools out of four 2x4's! Check out the FREE plans and video tutorial to get inspired to build your own!2 by 2 - 8 ft lengths - Qty 3 1 by 2 - 6 ft length - Qty 1 1 by 3 - 6ft lengthh - Qty 2 1 by 4 - 8 ft length - Qty 1 2 by 2 24 2 Front Legs 2 by 2 45 2 Back Legs 2 by 2 14.5 2 Bottom rails for front and back 2 by 2 15.5 2 Bottom rails for sides 1 by 2 14.5 1 Seat trim for back frame 1 by 3 14.5 6 Rails for front and back 1 by 3 15.5 2 Top rails for sides 1 by 4 18.5 5 Seat
Join the two shorter legs measuring 24 inches together using one of the 14 ½ inch 1 by 3s and a 14 ½ 2 by 2. I placed the bottom edge of the 2 by 2 rail 4 ½ inches up from the bottom of the leg and drilled the pocket holes for the 2 by 2s on the bottom edge so they are hidden from sight. The 1 by 3s will be hidden by the seat so you won’t see the pocket holes on the inside once seat is fitted. I decided to make the outside of the top rail flush with the outside of the legs rather than inset. Join the two longer legs measuring 45 inches together using 4 of the 14 ½ inch 1 by 3s and a 14 ½ 2 by 2. I placed the bottom edge of the 2 by 2 rail 12 inches up from the bottom of the leg. I spaced the rails out by 2 inches which left a gap of half an inch from the top of the top rail to the top of the leg. Tip : Cut two scraps of wood two inches long and use them as spacers when fitting the back rails If you look at my finished photo, the diagram below actually shows the back of the chair.
The part you lean against actually has the 1 by 3s inset by ¾ inch (so they are flush with the back). I put my pocket holes on the back side and made sure I filled, sanded, filled, sanded and repeated until happy the holes would not show. It is time consuming but worth the end result. Join the front and back together as shown. On each side use one of the 15 ½ inch 1 by 3s and a 15 ½ inch 2 by 2. Make sure you are consistent with the top rails so that on all sides they are all either flush with the outside edge or inset by ¾ inch. Add the back 1 by 3 rail so the top of it is flush with the top of the two side rails and it is flush with the front of the leg as shown. Drill pocket holes facing upwards on the inside and fix the 1 by 2 measuring 14 ½ inches to it. I made the seat overlap the edges of the frame by half an inch so I joined 5 pieces of 1 by 4 measuring 18 ½ inches long together to make the seat. Place all your pocket holes on the side you choose to be the underside so they do not show.