Back Plates & Rosettes Set Screws & Washers Antique Replacement Door Knobs, Parts, Strikes, & SpindlesFind the replacement door parts you need for your renovation project here. You'll find door knob and door lock parts as well as door parts such as striker plates and skeleton keys. Or build a completely custom door set, simply by choosing a doorknob and door knob plate combination.Antique doorknobs can start to slip over time. Vintage hardware such as doorknobs, locks and hinges add character and charm to any home, whether it’s old or new. Antique and vintage doorknobs are collectible items; highly sought after for period homes, historic buildings and admired by collectors for artistic design and craftsmanship. With many years of use, vintage doorknobs can start to slip when turned. Eventually, this can lead to the doorknob just spinning without opening the latch that secures the door. However, with a little cleaning and repair work, vintage doorknobs can often be restored to function properly without having to be replaced.
Tightening the Set Screw If you’re lucky, a malfunctioning vintage doorknob might only need to have the set screw tightened. If this is the case, your repair job can be done in literally a matter of a few seconds. The most time-consuming part may be trying to locate your flat head screwdriver. Once you find this tool, look for a small hole near the base of the knob. Check to see if the screw is still in place. If so, use the screwdriver to tighten the screw. Be careful not to over tighten because you might strip the screw. If the doorknob still slips after tightening the set screw, it may be necessary to replace the spindle. Replacing the Spindle The doorknob assembly is held together by a long, skinny metal piece called a spindle. The spindle is threaded and the doorknobs are screwed on. The spindle also contains flat grooves, which allow the set screw to “grab on” to the spindle. Heavy use of a doorknob with loose set screws can damage the spindle over time. When this occurs, tightening the screw will be ineffective.
To replace the spindle, you will first need to remove doorknobs. Loosen the set screw on one doorknob until the knob turns easily by itself. Keep turning the knob to unscrew it from the spindle. Once the knob is off, grab the opposite doorknob and pull the spindle out of the door. Unscrew the second doorknob and screw it back on to a new spindle that is the same size as the one you are replacing. Take the old spindle to a hardware store and ask for assistance if necessary. You can also find replacement vintage doorknob parts online. Cleaning Vintage Doorknob Hardware A thorough cleaning of vintage hardware can help improve its appearance and how it functions. It is not uncommon to find old doors that were once painted without the hardware being removed or covered beforehand. In order to remove the hardware from the door, it may be necessary to use a utility knife to score the paint around metal plates and lock mechanisms that may have become sealed to the door. Once removed, place the hardware in a crockpot filled with water and add a couple of tablespoons of liquid laundry detergent.
Cover and cook on medium heat overnight. Carefully remove the hardware and peel the paint off. Use a nylon brush for stubborn paint. Apply a protective coating of beeswax polish using a soft cloth. Cleaning Glass Doorknobs Do not submerge glass door knobs in hot water, as the heat may cause the glass to crack. To remove paint from glass door knobs, heat a mixture of equal parts vinegar and water. Bring the mixture to a boil and then remove from the heat. Carefully dip the end of a soft rag into the vinegar mixture. Rub the rag on the glass doorknob until the paint comes off. Rubber gloves may help insulate your hands from the heat of the rag. You can also use a razor blade to gently remove the softened paint. Scrape very delicately to avoid scratching the glass. Where to Find Vintage Doorknob Hardware and Parts If you need to find replacement parts for vintage doorknob hardware, eBay is one of the best online resources. You may also find what you need from one of the handful of antique hardware renovation and restoration websites you’ll find from a keyword search of antique doorknobs or antique hardware.
Finding the right parts will also depend on knowing the hand of the door. When you face the door, the side that contains the hinges will determine whether it is a right or left hand. In other words, if the hinges are on your right side and you push the door away from you to open it, the door is a right-hand door. If you pull the door towards you to open it, the door is a right-hand reverse. If you'd like help identifying your antique or vintage doorknobs, you can check the doorknob description page on the Antique Doorknob Collectors of America website. The classification is based on a system developed by Leonard Blumin, and can also be found in his book, "Victorian Decorative Art." /Getty Images Suggest a CorrectionTo repair old doorknobs and locks, start by learning a few key parts.My old house has lots of stuck doorknob mechanisms on both interior and exterior doors. Is there an easy fix? Bill Rigby: No one gives much thought to doorknobs or their accompanying mechanisms until they stop working.
But once you understand a bit about the anatomy of door hardware, you can perform many fixes yourself. On most door locks, there are two bolts that come through the face. The bolt with the slanted end is called a latch bolt, and it’s activated by turning the knobs; an internal spring retracts it when the door closes. The slant on the latch bolt rides up the lip of the strike (located on the door jamb) until the bolt falls into a hole in the strike. It provides minimal security designed simply to keep the door shut. If there’s a second rectangular bolt, it’s the deadbolt, which must be extended and retracted manually by turning a key or thumb turn, and offers a bit more security. If you have a door problem, the lock may not always be to blame. When houses settle, the strike may no longer align with the bolts, or the hinges may have come loose, resulting in a door that won’t stay closed. Also check for paint buildup—many locks and hinges can be hindered by coats of paint. If bolts no longer work and the paint’s not at fault, remove the lock and investigate further.
Remove the knobs by undoing the small screw on the side of the knob shank (don’t lose it!). Once the screw is removed, the knob will either pull off or unscrew from the spindle (the 5⁄16" square iron rod connecting the two knobs). The other knob can remain on the spindle, but as you push the spindle through the door, spacer washers may fall out—save these, too. If there is a thumb turn plate, remove that, too. With the knobs out, now is the time to remove the two screws from the lock’s face. You may need a heat gun to warm and release any paint. If it won’t release easily, insert the spindle or a screwdriver through the knob hub, and rock it gently to ease the lock out of the mortise. Open the lock by removing the screw(s) holding the cover in place, then snap a picture or two or make a sketch of what you see to help with reassembly. Look for broken parts anywhere in the lock. These may be small, but they are critical; Any misshapen or broken parts may need to be repaired or replaced.
Once opened, the lock reveals springs that may need repair. You’ll also need to measure and record details of the knob hub (the casting with the square hole that holds the spindle), the spacing (the vertical distance from the center of the hub to the center of the round part of the keyhole), and the backset (the horizontal distance from the center of the round part of the keyhole to the face of the lock or door edge). Most locks came with various backsets and spacings, so these measurements are critical for getting the right internal parts. Most doorknob problems start with a broken spring. (The remaining problems stem from someone fixing the lock incorrectly, installing the wrong spring, or installing it improperly.) Springs break because they are fatigued or the lock was never lubricated. It’s possible to get some spring stock from a hardware store and make new springs yourself. An antique hardware specialist can make you new springs for about $20, or may have a supply of parts to replace broken ones.
You can have the lock straightened, cleaned, and lubricated, too. For an additional fee, the lock face can be restored to its original finish. If you need parts, you’ll need some important information. Search for a maker’s name or a number cast into the body of the lock; a three- or four-digit number refers to a catalog number. (A number on the face usually refers to a key.) That and your picture of the open lock should be enough for a professional to analyze the problem. Once the lock’s parts are all in working order, apply a little lightweight grease on the hub’s ears and medium lubricating oil on any other moving parts. Get the oil from any hardware store—don’t use WD-40, as it is not a lubricant. Use oil sparingly, and don’t lubricate the deadbolt, as oil here tends to transfer to the key, and you don’t want an oily key in your pocket. Graphite has always been a favorite of locksmiths for smaller moving parts, although it won’t prevent rusting like oil does. Pop the cover on and try the knob and key;