FREE SHIPPING • + To select handles, locks, sash, insect screens, weatherstrip and more, select a Window Style below! Double and Single Hung Andersen Connect Window Products Trim, Locksets, Handles, Insect Screens, Panels, Weatherstrip and more! Andersen Connect Patio Door Products Top Selling Door Parts Paint, Sealants, Adhesives, Lubricants and Installation Kits Window and Patio Door Maintenance TipsRegularly inspecting your Andersen® windows or patio doors will maximize their longevity. Inspecting your products and performing simple routine maintenance before winter may decrease your home's heating cost.Understanding CondensationHave you wondered why is there condensation on your window or patio door glass? View this helpful video on understanding condensation.Condensation can form on interior glass surfaces when there is too much moisture in the air. If the interior of a structure exceeds certain limits of moisture in the air, the moisture will condense and show up on comparatively cooler surfaces, such as glass.
Recommended humidity levels in winter months should not exceed 30-35%. If these humidity levels are exceeded, you may want to take measures to reduce the interior humidity level; our video can provide tips on reducing humidity in your home.For more information on condensation and lowering humidity, visit our Help Center.Inspect WeatherstrippingOn the next windy day check around the edge of your windows or patio doors; do you feel a draft? Exposure to light, moisture, temperatures, wear and compression may cause weatherstripping to lose its ability to seal properly over time.Open the window and check the weatherstripping around the window sash or frame. Different types of windows will have weatherstripping in different locations. Is your weatherstrip cracked, torn, smashed or missing? Replacing damaged weatherstripping greatly increases the efficiency of your window or patio door.Shop for window weatherstrip.Shop for patio door weatherstrip.Andersen's YouTube Weatherstrip Videos You May Find Helpful: 400 Series Tilt-Wash Weatherstrip Replacement Narroline® Double-Hung Weatherstrip Replacement 200 and 400 Series Gliding Door Weatherstrip Replacement 200 and 400 Series Hinged Patio Door Gasket Weatherstrip ReplacementInspect Locks & SealantBe sure your products close and lock properly.
Windows that are not locked securely may leak. Inspect the lock to be sure it secures the window or patio door properly.Inspect the sealant around the window or patio door for any cracking, voids or deterioration. Use sealant to fill any holes, gaps, or air leaks to prevent heat from escaping. This may help reduce your winter utility bill. Andersen has sealant available to match the color of your window's exterior.Click here for available Andersen® colored sealant optionsRemove and Store Insect ScreensNow is the time to remove insect screens for winter storage; keep in mind it is best to store insect screens either upright or flat; avoid storing at an angle.When installing or removing the insect screens take advantage of this time to clean and inspect the interior and exterior of your windows.How Efficient is your Glass?Consider upgrading your glass to a more efficient glass. If you own a double-hung window.Installing a self-storing combination unit with annealed glass storm panels can improve energy efficiency by as much as 60% in winter and 56% in summer over Low-E glass.*A combination unit is also ideal for sound reduction in noisy environments.*Values are based on camparison of Andersen® 400 Series Tilt-Wash double-hung window with Lowe-E4® glass and combination unit U-Factor to the U-Factor for clear dual pane glass non-metal frame default values from the 2006
, 2009 and 2012 International Energy Conservation Code "Glazed Fenestration" Default Tables. Shop Our Online Parts Store Use the Online Parts Catalog to find your part number. Then shop our online part store, contact the retailer, builder or distributor who supplied your product, or contact Andersen directly at 888-888-7020. Model # FWG6068 L WHT KIT 72 in. x 80 in. 400 Series Frenchwood Left-Hand Sliding Patio Door The Andersen 400 Series 71-1/4 in. x 79-1/2 in. White Left-Hand Frenchwood Gliding Patio Door features a unique reach-out locking system that protects against harsh weather effects. Made of natural pine wood, this door has an attractive sand-tone exterior that's easy to maintain. The high-performance windows are LowE4 insulated and reduce water spots up to 99% to maintain a clean, beautiful appearance. Natural pine wood interior Attractive sand-tone exterior is low maintenance Weather stripping helps prevent air leaks Unique reach-out locking system protects against harsh weather effects
Heavy-duty rollers and a stainless steel track provide smooth gliding operation Large windows bring natural light into your home High-performance glass is LowE4 insulated for energy efficiency Glass reduces water spots up to 99% to offer a clean, beautiful appearance Can be painted or stained to match your unique home design Energy Star qualified to meet or exceed federal guidelines for energy efficiency for year-round energy and money savings Door Size (WxH) in.: how much does this door cost? for more information on pricing. You shouldn't have to muscle a sliding patio door to get it to glide along its track. A slider should move easily enough for you to open it with one hand while balancing a round of drinks in the other. If you have a balky patio door or sliding screen that moves only when you jiggle it along the track, it's easy to get things rolling again with a quick tune-up. Dirty rollers are the main reason sliding doors get stuck.
"Mud, food, and hair get ground onto the track," says Joe Giagnorio, who repairs about 80 sliders a year as service manager for Ring's End Lumber in Darien, Connecticut. "All that dirt clogs the rollers underneath the door." The remedy, which he demonstrates on the following pages, takes about an hour and works for wood, vinyl, and aluminum doors. Replacement parts — for anything from a faulty latch to torn weatherstripping — are available from retailers that sell new doors of the same make. If you follow these steps and the door still doesn't slide, it may be a sign of a poor installation or an underlying structural problem, like an undersized header above the door or a rotten sill beneath it. Hire a remodeling contractor to diagnose the problem and make the necessary fixes. But if you get the old door sliding like new, it's simple to keep it that way: "Vacuum the track well whenever you clean the room," Giagnorio says. 1. Lay a drop cloth on the floor and pop off the two plugs covering the roller adjustment screws at the bottom of the sliding-door frame.
(These are sometimes located in the edges of the door.) Insert a flathead screwdriver into each hole and turn the screw all the way counterclockwise (above). This retracts the rollers, lowering the door. 2. Outside, set up a couple of sawhorses with pads. Take down any removable grilles, shades, or drapes. Slide the door fully open and remove the head stop by backing out its screws (above). Don't leave the door unattended; without a stop, it can fall. 3. While standing inside, lean the top of the sliding-door panel toward you and lift it off the bottom track (above). Set the panel on the sawhorses. Caution: Sliding doors are heavy. Make sure to bend your knees to take the weight off your back, or recruit a helper. Clean and Lubricate Tracks 1. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry each roller from its pocket in the bottom of the door (above). (Rollers are typically held in by friction and the weight of the door.) If they are bent or broken, replace them with new roller assemblies, which cost about $10 each.
2. Scrape any dirt from the wheels, then clean them with denatured alcohol and a rag. Lubricate only with silicone spray (above), which doesn't hold dirt. To reinstall, align each roller's adjustment screw with its access hole and tap in the assemblies with a hammer, using a wood block to protect the wheels. Once they're seated, retract the rollers as far as possible. 3. Wipe the head track and the outside face of the removed head stop with alcohol and spray with silicone. Vacuum loose debris from the bottom track, then clean thoroughly with alcohol. The bottom track needs a more substantial lubricant than silicone; rub it a few times with a block of paraffin wax (above). 1. To replace torn or cracked weatherstripping where the sliding and fixed panels overlap, loosen its staples with a flathead screwdriver, then grab one end and pull it and the staples off the door, prying gently with a putty knife (above). Remove any remaining staples with pliers; sink the broken ones with a hammer.
The strip on the jamb side is generally glued. If it's damaged, pull it off and scrape the adhesive residue with the putty knife, taking care not to mar the finish. 2. Where the sliding panel's frame overlaps the fixed panel, orient the new weatherstripping with its flap facing as indicated on the instructions. Align the top end with the shadow line of the head stop, and secure the flange tightly along the door's edge. Drill a 1/8-inch-diameter pilot hole at each of the holes in the flange and drive the screws provided (above). Do the same on the fixed panel so the two strips interlock. Glue the jamb-side strip in place with a plastic adhesive. Clean up smudges and fingerprints with alcohol. 3. Set the door back on the bottom track and tilt it up. Brace the door with your body and reattach the head stop. (Don't leave the door unattended until stop is installed.) Roll the door to within a half-inch of the latch-side jamb, then turn the roller adjustment screws until the door is parallel to the jamb (above).
If the latch does not mate with its receiver on the jamb, adjust the receiver by loosening its screws and moving the plate up or down. Dropping a broom handle into a sliding-door track keeps the door from opening, but it's not an ideal security device. "It looks terrible, and you have to bend down to put it in and take it out," says Joe Giagnorio. He prefers retrofitting a simple foot-operated auxiliary lock, which costs under $20.Close and latch the door, then temporarily mount the lock against its lower edge. Now lower the locking bolt and mark its location on the rail in pencil (1). Remove the lock and drill a hole (sized as specified) through the track, and pop in the rubber grommet provided. Then remount the lock and test it. Stepping on the top engages the bolt (2); pressing on the side releases it. And what about the old broomstick? "I tell people with kids that it's just right for a game of stickball," Giagnorio says. Lightweight and relatively frail, sliding screens are often the most problem-plagued component of a sliding-door assembly.